Fluid leaking from the shock absorber.

[Groshyubcha]

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[HotPocket]

Hey @alexandr.dolgoulsky and @Groshyubcha what did you both end up doing? I chose to buy a totaled 2023 R1s as a fix-up project and am genuinely enjoying it. I have the same leak that stems from a frontend collision (the same that totaled the car for the previous owner). It didn't start leaking from the the hydraulic hoses until a day or two ago, about two weeks into the project, after many test drives. Did either of you find out how to fix it, where to get the hoses, what gaskets to swap, how much fluid (and how) to add?

Since mine is a salvage I'm mostly on my own, though Rivian will provide limited support for more $ than I have at my disposal right now. I'm mostly reverse engineering, watching youtube (Munro is excellent), and grabbing cheap ebay parts. Making lots of progress!

As a side note, I'd love to swap tips and stories with anyone interested in digging into or having done a Rivian restore. Should be fun and quite a learning experience. I'll happily share any resources I uncover here.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Groshyubcha]

@HotPocket congrats on the new project!

Here is what the repair bill read as:
“Confirmed hydraulic leak from jounce line block in R/F wheel well. Drained hydraulic system, replaced jounce lines and seals. Refilled hydraulic system and test drove to confirm repairs. leak and related faults no longer present”

“Correction/Remedy:
- Lines, Jounce, Hydraulic Suspension, Front, RH (Remove and Replace)
- Hydraulic Fluid (Drain and Refill)
- Hydraulic Suspension General Diagnostic

 

[HotPocket]

Thank you @Groshyubcha, this was super helpful! That the technician included all the terminology and part numbers really comes in handy. I doubt I've ever had a mechanic write such a thorough receipt.

 

[Groovian]

Thank you @Groshyubcha, this was super helpful! That the technician included all the terminology and part numbers really comes in handy. I doubt I've ever had a mechanic write such a thorough receipt.

Did you figure out your hydraulic issue? Were you able to evacuate and refill the lines? I just replaced my R F strut and evac/refilled the system somewhat as per Hollywood Mechanics video on youtube.

 

[HotPocket]

Did you figure out your hydraulic issue? Were you able to evacuate and refill the lines? I just replaced my R F strut and evac/refilled the system somewhat as per Hollywood Mechanics video on youtube.

Hi @Groovian, thank you for replying to this. I haven't gotten to the hydraulics yet but it's high on my short list of things to fix. I was going to follow Hollywood Mechanics' video as well but wasn't sure if I had the proper vacuum. I have one that I bought for vacuuming AC lines (on other cars)- would that work if I pickup the adapter Hollywood recommnds? What did you end using to pull it off and how hard was it? What fluid did you buy?

On a somewhat related note, I was trying to swap out a CV boot on the other side and could not, for the life of me, get the upper control arm joint detached from the steering knuckle. I have a good ball joint tool but I was afraid to hit these expensive aluminum parts with a sledge. Did you encounter this?

One final question, if I may: are you doing this yourself because you are beyond the warranty? I'm fixing up a salvage I picked up so I am assuming I don't have bumper-to-bumper coverage.

Thanks again! All advice and tips are greatly appreciated.

 

[Groovian]

Hi @Groovian, I have one that I bought for vacuuming AC lines (on other cars)- would that work if I pickup the adapter Hollywood recommnds? What did you end using to pull it off and how hard was it? What fluid did you buy?

Mine is salvage too and I'd have to pay a $600 ransom (safety inspection) for Rivian to evac/inject the Pentosin CHF11S into the truck so I did it myself. My guess is they wouldn't charge much for it though.

Yes, any cheap vac pump from amazon for a/c work is fine. I bought a vacuum chamber (cooking pot) and pump on amazon. Also on amazon 2x ISO 7241-B 1/4 Inch NPT Quick Disconnect Hydraulic Coupler. Also on amazon a 125 psi blasting tank. All for $400 to $450. It may be the caseHollywood Mechanic used QC fittings but I think only because he had that set up for Jaguar. Rivian has the male 7241 under the aft of the car to connect to. Then I had to get all the 1/4 NPT fittings and adapters to make the connections. Essentially you want to create a vacuum between the fluid tank and the 7241 fitting at the truck so that you can fill it with fluid. Then you pressure force the fluid into the truck. It took about 1 minute for vac and 30s for fill.

On a somewhat related note, I was trying to swap out a CV boot on the other side and could not, for the life of me, get the upper control arm joint detached from the steering knuckle. I have a good ball joint tool but I was afraid to hit these expensive aluminum parts with a sledge. Did you encounter this?

Yeah don't hammer it. Use some penetrating oil spray and a 2 arm puller to get it detached. I'll post a pic of what I used.

One final question, if I may: are you doing this yourself because you are beyond the warranty? I'm fixing up a salvage I picked up so I am assuming I don't have bumper-to-bumper coverage.

Correct, they will not service your vehicle for warranty but will service if you pay and prior that pass a safety inspection. It's actually cheaper than Tesla because Tesla charges you for2 inspections.

Thanks again! All advice and tips are greatly appreciated.

 

[Ingo]

Dear members,
Especially you two:
@Groovian and @HotPocket

I have a similar issue. I have a Rivian based in Iceland. This weekend while driving on a rough gravel road I found that something gave in on the suspension and the warning lights came on as well as a message popped up saying that I should service suspension.
Since there is no Rivian service center in Iceland I tried to locate the problem and found it today. There is a leakege from the I guess the hydraulic coupler? I am not a mechanic myself but have a mechanic willing to support here in Iceland. Rivian will NOT help and tell me to bring the care back to the states. So much for staying adventurous.
I would welcome information on how to fix this, step by step, if at all possible, and I will share this with my mechanic. Are there any pictures or videos of this process? How much fluid should be used as a replacement etc. Thanks in advance.
ingo

 

[HotPocket]

Hey @Ingo! I had that exact leak in my jounce line. Swapping that part out isn't terribly difficult. The main challenge is vacuuming and pressure filling the hydraulic system. That step becomes quite easy once you source or build a machine to do so. With @Groovian's help, above (Thank you @Groovian!), and careful watching of Hollywood Mechanic's videos, I was able piece that machine together and it worked perfectly. I spent about $500 total to build the machine and then around $100 for new hydraulic fluid, though you could save most of the existing fluid and spend way less, maybe buy a quart or two. I argue that this price is completely worth it as lots of different repairs involve de/re pressurizing the suspension. I've already used it 3 separate times.

Which jounce line is it? Front/back, driver/passenger. Looks to be ~$165 USD from Rivian directly though I had ordered mine off sometime back. Let me know if you need help getting the part.

Also let me know what other info you need and I'll DM you. I'm happy to take photos of whatever you need and also chat with your mechanic and share all relevant details. This is very doable.

Good luck!

 

[Ingo]

Hi @HotPocket ,

I was trying to find my reply to you but somehow did not find it. I would appreciate more information from you how to drain and fill the system.
I have been able to source the part needed. This is the passenger front side.

Ingo

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