Gen 2 R1T 7 Pin Trailer Connector 12V Current Output?

[babock]

Anybody know the spec for the current output of the 12V line in the 7 pin connector? Reason I am asking is that I have an EOH trailer brake system where the EOH controller requires around 30A.

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[Davethadog]

If it requires 30a it has to be from an auxiliary battery. Think about the gauge required for 30a and then think about every trailer plug you’ve ever seen.

 

[babock]

If it requires 30a it has to be from an auxiliary battery. Think about the gauge required for 30a and then think about every trailer plug you’ve ever seen.

Not always. My 3/4T GMC Denali powers my EOH fine through the 7 pin connector because it has a 10 AWG wire for the 12V feed. My previous F-150 could not mainly because the wire gauge is too small and I used an external connector with a heavy wire up to the battery.

I don't have my R1T yet so I asked in advance if anyone knew what amount of current could be sourced through the 7 pin.

If the R1T can't source that amount of power, the alternative will likely be a power supply powered by the R1T 120V outlet.

 

[MikeWilliams_R1T]

I would not try to run any accessories off the 12v (charge) line on the 7 way plug. I spent most of the fall this year pulling a trailer for my daughter’s school that lacked a battery… the trailer cabin LED lights were wired to it so a few observations:

1) The charge line is only energized when the truck is “on”. Once you park and get out, it will stay on for maybe 2-3 minutes. Camp mode (power on) extended it, but it still unexplainably turns off after 10 or so minutes. Buckling the seatbelt is the only way to get it reliably to stay on.

2) I did some exploratory digging and did not see any 10 awg wire behind the harness. I’m not sure I would try to power something heavy directly from it. It’s clearly switched, so probably fused. My assumption is 10 or 15 amp at most.

Get a battery. Connect it to the charge line so it will stay topped off and you don’t overload the circuit or burn up a wiring harness somewhere.

 

[fjfilips]

Hi, just went through this with my 2025 Rivian R1S. It took Burbank service center 3 days to finally track down the specs on the fuses for the 7 way connector. The trailer brake output is connected to a 30A e-fuse, so is capable of providing significant power to the trailer brakes. The rest of the 7 pins (including the 12V output) are connected to 10A e-fuses. So the 12V output can't handle a large load. I found out the hard way because I have a folding trailer with an actuator that draws up to 20A, and it stopped working on my R1S after a few days.

 

[babock]

Hi, just went through this with my 2025 Rivian R1S. It took Burbank service center 3 days to finally track down the specs on the fuses for the 7 way connector. The trailer brake output is connected to a 30A e-fuse, so is capable of providing significant power to the trailer brakes. The rest of the 7 pins (including the 12V output) are connected to 10A e-fuses. So the 12V output can't handle a large load. I found out the hard way because I have a folding trailer with an actuator that draws up to 20A, and it stopped working on my R1S after a few days.

Yeah...I have come to the conclusion I won't want to use the 12V from the truck to power this. The option I am likely going to go with is either a separate battery in the bed(as a previous poster mentioned) or a 30A power supply. I am not towing far(25 miles), fortunately, so there won't be much power being drawn off of a battery which is likely the cheapest option. I may just buy an inexpensive lithium battery.

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