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Wheel bearing possibly
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That’s a good one. Nobody wants to lift the truck solely for rotating the wheels. You could stick your head out the window at speed to listen for whining from the wheelsWheel bearing possibly
This a great diagnostic step layout and I have not yet tried the different drive settings as I have been in All Purpose the entire time. I have been logging the Vehicle Diagnostics for the tech (left steering wheel buttons and emergency flasher hold down until it shows up logged) for them each time. This is the first I have done that, so that will give them a date and time stamp with relational data to further assist.TL: DR Option 3 below could be the fastest way to figure out what is happening
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The key point for me is not what happens but when it happens. Those long sweeping curves that gradually trace different length paths has to be it.
You might try these and see what happens:
1. Find a curve that starts the truck shimmying on all purpose. Go back over that section of road again but this time on conserve. That could isolate the issue to be just the rear wheels if the problem does not happen in conserve mode.
2. Try turning on highway assist only after entering the corner. If the truck is fine in the corner but then shimmies on the next straight, my money is on a hardware component making the software think the wheels are turning at different speeds when they are not.
3. The tech should be able to monitor (either via the RIDE menu or via an OBDC monitor) what the wheels are doing when the shimmying starts. Specifically, check how much torque is being applied to each wheel when the truck is shimmying (check the numbers behind the blue bars of each wheel in the settings display). I’m guessing one will be a few percent higher or lower than the rest.
Before TPMS, there was another way to notify drivers that one wheel was underinflated. Count the wheel rotations over a long distance. If one rotated more and all other things being equal, there was a good chance that wheel was under inflated. Rivian could be doing something similar by concluding a wheel was under inflated. But I doubt it.
That could be an issue if the wheel when turning experiences some lateral force, it could be sniffing that wheel bearing out past its "good" point and then causing a wobble. But then I wonder why it is not doing it without Cruise or Highway Assist still.Wheel bearing possibly
I do have those turned off, but in the past with the same issue I did have them turned on. I did however take the advice from the other post and I put it in Conserve mode which I never do. I drove the same stretch of highway and was not able to replicate the vibrating shuddering issue "yet". It was not was full test as I did not go through my normal route and traffic was slow. I have to be over 60mph. But it's was enough for me to think that maybe one of the rear motors "may" be the culprit. I will continue to test later once traffic dies down in the evening.Does it happen when lane departure and lane assist are off? Could it have something to do with these sensors?
Best of luck in the next leg of this adventure.I am feeling you on this and I think the wheel bearing makes sense due to the 10 minute delay that occurs before the issue comes up. Heat is the what exposes this. I think replacing the hubs and bearing may indeed resolve it. We will see next week when it goes in.