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nkohlimd

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Great thread-can I ask where you put the subwoofer control. Going to forward your writeup and pics to my local installer-not sure if I am brave enough to take apart the car and do the install. Any guestimate how long it would take? Thanks so much..cheers!
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MaTeZZ

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Great thread-can I ask where you put the subwoofer control. Going to forward your writeup and pics to my local installer-not sure if I am brave enough to take apart the car and do the install. Any guestimate how long it would take? Thanks so much..cheers!
I have left my control inside the spare wheel compartment. Eventually I'll run the wire to the front, but so far it has not been necessary. On the EQ I have pushed the 65Hz about half way down before adjusting the sub level. Now by moving the 65Hz level it can fine tune the sub if needed.
I'll take a picture of what is needed to be removed for access to the sub and the 12V. The 12V ended up being easily accessible. No messing with fuses necessary, as you just unplug the connector located under the rear piece of carpet inside the spare storage and tap to the pink wire going from the fixed connector which is going to the tow hitch. Since that is switched power, it is used for amp control as well.
 

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I upgraded to sub only with the NXV sub posted earlier. It's an upgrade to my ears BUT since I already have the trim out I think I'll likely install an amp too. My biggest issue is that turning up the bass tends to create distortion in the other speakers. If I can boost the bass using the bass knob then I can keep the bass down in the car equalizer.
 

MaTeZZ

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I upgraded to sub only with the NXV sub posted earlier. It's an upgrade to my ears BUT since I already have the trim out I think I'll likely install an amp too. My biggest issue is that turning up the bass tends to create distortion in the other speakers. If I can boost the bass using the bass knob then I can keep the bass down in the car equalizer.
Great! you are half way there :)
 

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Not sure but I thought people in this thread my be interested in this FB post that I cam across.

He installed the following in the standard sub location with sound deadening.

  • JL Audio 10W3
  • JL Audio MX500/1
  • JL Audio XDACS60 (Wiring Kit)
  • JL Audio RBC-1 (Bass Knob)
  • Audiocontrol LC2i (Integration)
Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1698077670128

Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1698077627018

Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1698077646950



 

courtlandre

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Taking out the tub cover was pretty easy, just pop up the plastic screw things holding it down.
Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer IMG_3301 (1).JPG


On the left side there is a group of connectors; I tapped into the far left pink wire.
Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer IMG_3302 (1).JPG


I'm not entirely sure this is correct, but it turns on/off with the car and provides ~13V.
 

Freddie

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Taking out the tub cover was pretty easy, just pop up the plastic screw things holding it down.
IMG_3301 (1).JPG


On the left side there is a group of connectors; I tapped into the far left pink wire.
IMG_3302 (1).JPG


I'm not entirely sure this is correct, but it turns on/off with the car and provides ~13V.
Great! Other than that pink wire, what other wire did you tap? Considering to take this route, but I have no idea on these and trying to learn
 

courtlandre

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Great! Other than that pink wire, what other wire did you tap? Considering to take this route, but I have no idea on these and trying to learn
Pink is the power cable, for ground I just loosened a bolt attached to the chassis and attached a wire. For the audio I took from two of the four wires going into the stock sub. So basically power and ground then two speaker wires go into the amp, from the amp there are four speaker wires for the 2 coil sub.
 

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Freddie

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Pink is the power cable, for ground I just loosened a bolt attached to the chassis and attached a wire. For the audio I took from two of the four wires going into the stock sub. So basically power and ground then two speaker wires go into the amp, from the amp there are four speaker wires for the 2 coil sub.
Perfect, thank you! One last question, what’s the depth available for the speaker in the enclosure? Was looking at https://www.jlaudio.com/products/10w3v3-4-car-audio-w3v3-subwoofers-92151 vs NVX
 

ozziegt

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Someone on Reddit has photos of a sub upgrade he had done at his local shop. Reddit post
  • JL 10W3
  • JL LOC22
  • JL RD500/1
It sounds like the LOC is not needed, and amps can handle speaker level input from the Rivian amp?



Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039781490


Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039795686


Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039811754


Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039825139


Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039852480


Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039868700


Rivian R1T R1S Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer 1699039889625
 

powerplyer

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Hi thanks for the information. Do you have the colors or better pics of the input (speaker/amp). I bought a JL 10" integrated sub. Fits perfect in the wheel well area.
 

Supratachophobia

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For all my past installs I installed 10 awg at least for powering the amp and fused straight to the battery. On my model 3 I have it wired to the 12v output on the HV battery. That small wire seems like it would not handle the current for a sub amp. Unless I miss read and that’s just your switched wire. Where are you getting power for the amp.
Meh, he'll blow the fuse before the wire melts.
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