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Dear Rivian Engineers who worked on the Air Conditioning

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Cactus

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I've had too many issues my first week with this car. I spent over twice as much on it than my previous cars and had no issues with those. Frustrating we have to look for so many hacks online to making it work as it should. I did call just now and got an appt for Friday just to make sure everything is working as expected.
You called and got an appt for Friday?! I used the app a week ago for a few things including AC issue and can't get into the SC until Aug 24th!
Did you call the Phx SC directly?
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Ashtothexo

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You called and got an appt for Friday?! I used the app a week ago for a few things including AC issue and can't get into the SC until Aug 24th!
Did you call the Phx SC directly?
Used the app, service, call option. They showed concern with a kid melting in the middle row to get in ASAP which I appreciate. Maybe you can try to call over chat and get in sooner??
 

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They discovered the system was over-charged from the factory. Correcting the refrigerant volume and the software update seems to have cured the issue.
....
I've read about similar "overcharged/undercharged" resolutions from service events maybe half a dozen times previously, posted here and other forums. I don't live in a 100+ degree daily climate, but on days where it's 90+ my AC has performed just fine. IMO it's beginning to look like this over/under charge issue might be fairly widespread and possibly the source of many of the compaints posted here? If it were a fundamental design problem we would all be in the same situation. That would also explain why many people are not complaining.

FWIW, any AC/cooling/refrigeration system has a specific amount of refrigerant, measured in ounces in the US, that works optimally. Just a few ounces too much or too little refrigerant results in poor or no refrigerant evaporation, which is what "makes" your cold air.
 

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Disclaimer- I live in Phoenix where it’s pretty warm right now.
However, the 5 other cars in my household: 2014 Jeep grand Cherokee, 2017Jeep wrangler, 2014 Ford Escape, 2017 Porsche Cayman and 2014 Tesla model S blow COLD air within 3-5 mins of driving-even in 110+ heat.

Engineers: Please redesign the AC so that it:
1. Cools the cabin properly within 5 mins (yes, recirculate is on and temp is set to 72F, but air is barely cool). Even after driving for 15 mins Air from vents is not particularly cool.
2. Doesn‘t make a loud weed trimmer noise. It’s embarrassing to drive what should be a “cool” vehicle that makes the weed trimmer noise. It’s pretty clear the compressor is trying unsuccessfully to cool the cabin, but can’t.
3. Please test the AC in extreme temps to evaluate performance of the system.


That’s it! That’s all I am asking. Otherwise, I am reasonably happy with my R1S.
 

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I live in Phx too and park outside, the AC is a major problem for me. Had it inspected by the service center, they changed a gasket out and thats about it. If you are in the Sun and its 115, the car can not cool down in under 20 minutes, not even close.

Most every other car I drive in has better AC. Cheaper and nicer cars, doesnt matter. This will only impact people in hot temps and if you park outside. If you park in your garage and your car is reasonable cool its fine. In the Sun - good luck...
 

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Maybe it’s time to sell it because the “R1S just too hot for Phoenix”. That and no CarPlay
 

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Personally i hate the concept of a temperature set point for vehicle climate controls. I want to good old days where I control the temperature of the air coming out of the system.

Instead I get air from the depths of hell or air from the frozen tundra, no in between. And what makes it worse is the arbitrary minimum point. In the winter, 60 is too warm so it is basically non-functional for me.

The compressor thing I've always had, since last summer. It seems like more people are noticing it now with the temperatures rising. The worst part for me is when it gets stuck on max and I'm driving on the highway and can't hear it. The efficiency just tanks.
I have feature requested a way to turn off heat and cool separately. This would be helpful in the transition of seasons. Sometimes I want air moving but not cold. But if outside end up being 3-5 degrees above or below my set point it turn heat or AC on.
 

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Parking lot temp is 124F in the afternoon in Phx. Probably slightly warmer inside the vehicle, but not much.
Last few days my T has been 130-134 internal. Pre-cool for 10-15 and it’s 60 inside.
 

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I really wish the glass roof had been optional. When purchasing the R1T I asked if it could come without the glass roof and was told no. From prior experience with automotive glass roofs I knew it was going to be a problem in the Arizona summer heat. I have installed a roof sun screen which helps but there is still a heat load radiating through which the A/C struggles to cool. The HVAC system, summer or winter, is simply substandard. Running it on manual seems to help some.
 

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I tried an experiment today. My efficiency on the way to work was terrible at about 1.75 mi/kwh (25-65 mph, no launches and driving very conservatively in all purpose mode), so I turned off the cool/heat icon so that neither heat nor AC was on (fan remained on, however). After 2-3 mins, I turned on the AC again and the efficiency dramatically improved to 2.1 mi/kwh for another 3-4 miles and by then I was at work. WTF?

I have no idea why this would work, but clearly something is not right with the AC such that it sucks power so badly it dramatically affects efficiency. The biggest drain on miles/kwh should be drag (wind resistance).
How/where can I see my efficiency with and without the AC going?
 

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Last few days my T has been 130-134 internal. Pre-cool for 10-15 and it’s 60 inside.
Lucky you! Sounds like you got a good AC compressor. Plus the R1T has less cabin volume to cool.
 

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What I can't believe is this "luxury" truck does not have solar tint on all the windows.

Here is how I think of it - leave your car for 10 min in the sun - feel the heat? all that heat has to be removed by AC even when the car is driving. Just seems like a massive waste of power to me. A HUGE oversite by Rivian. The last 5 cars I have owned have all had factory solar tint on all windows.

I think having to take my brand new truck to the tint shop like it's some low end civic is ludicrous.

(note EVEN the civic ships with tint now)
I’m curious what previous cars you’ve had that had some sort of solar / IR reduction from the factory on the side windows.

As far as I know, only Jaguar and Mercedes have offered that in the recent past.
 

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I’m curious what previous cars you’ve had that had some sort of solar / IR reduction from the factory on the side windows.

As far as I know, only Jaguar and Mercedes have offered that in the recent past.
I believe BMW does as well.
 

Joel

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Lucky you! Sounds like you got a good AC compressor. Plus the R1T has less cabin volume to cool.
You’re so right the R1S definitely has more cabin volume. I read earlier the Rivian doesn’t turn on the rear unit if there are no occupants in the third row. Is there not a way to override that “feature”? I also wonder if the R1 platform shares the same AC components. Then there is the info from Rivian that the battery cooling is within the same cooling as the cabin. In extreme heat like Pheonix and NV have been having lately it makes since that it is taking longer to cool.
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