It’s an ARB base, meant for their off road jack but totally usable for any other jack. Admittedly, I went with the ARB cause I like orange…
Honestly there isn’t much in the way of plans. The jack top just needs to be machined down to a cylinder that fits inside the bottom of your pucks (assuming it has a pocket for bottle jacks).
I managed to get it pretty nice by doing an initial cut/shape with an angle grinder. Then I stuck it on a large bolt, tightened a nut on it and put it in my drill press. With it spinning in the drill press I used files and ground it down the rest of the way. Essentially a "poor mans lathe"
but it looks pretty good.
Nice! I like it.I managed to get it pretty nice by doing an initial cut/shape with an angle grinder. Then I stuck it on a large bolt, tightened a nut on it and put it in my drill press. With it spinning in the drill press I used files and ground it down the rest of the way. Essentially a "poor mans lathe"
The saddle on that jack might work well with rock sliders. I haven't received the set I ordered, yet (EV Sportline, IIRC), so I'll evaluate it at that time.I got tired of waiting for Rivian to have spares available, so I put together my own setup.
Bought a wheel/tire off eBay from someone who got aftermarket wheels right after delivery.
I originally bought a jack kit from EV Sportline, only to find out it can’t actually lift the rear of the truck off the ground when following Rivian’s guidance to use the highest suspension setting for jacking. No-go for me. After a bit of searching, I found out the jack that comes with Mercedes Sprinters is a 3.5T jack that goes to about 25” without unscrewing the top at all. About 28” with the top screwed out. More than enough to jack the Rivian in any situation. These jacks can easily be found new on eBay for $75, sometimes less. I think it’s made in Germany, and seems much better built than the typical Chinese bottle jack. The only catch is these jacks have a saddle on top for the Sprinter. It is attached with a spring pin so it’s easy to remove. I put this saddle on my lathe and turned it down to a cylinder that just fits into the bottom of my jack pucks, and powder coated it black for good measure.
I bought an ARB jack base and a cheap extendable lug nut wrench to round out the kit. To secure the wheel to the truck I got a threaded rod and rubber knob from McMaster, which goes through a hole on the ARB base. Then to tie it all together, I made a foam insert that squeezes into the wheel and holds the jack, wrench, and even the center cap for the wheel. I cut the foam on my CNC router with a laser (although with my 7w laser it took a lot of slow passes and doesn’t look great)
Very happy with this setup, and much more comfortable taking the truck to more remote areas.
I got the 9065800618. I'm not sure what the difference is, other than the 618 is $10 more than the 118 from the seller I got mine from.
Hello twizzstyle. I asked the eBay seller about the total extension of the “618” and “118”. They said that the 618 is 28” and 118 is 25”. I would probably get the 118. Do you feel that the 3” could be a problem for total lifT?
Personally I’d go with the taller one. Not sure there’s any reason not to, other than saving a few dollars. Just nice insurance in case you find yourself in a spot needing the extra lift.
