Overseas charging issues- 12V and the main battery

[Donald Stanfield]

I had put in a cautionary tale here regarding another owner (in another forum) having their warranty denied by Rivian for switching to the Ohmmu battery.

Not trying to start anything; just trying to make sure everyone is aware of that risk. I'd probably call Rivian and ask them their advice before using a battery if they truly won't support it.

That post was deleted because...? I guess I'm not allowed to mention competing forums by name. Sorry about that MODS. PS: you really need a way for us to be able to respond directly to you instead of this nonsense where I can only see your comments in the "Alerts" Section.

When I've needed to contact them I've reported posts but in the reason I just put whatever question I had for them and made it clear I didn't actually have a problem with the post I was reporting.

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[HaveBlue]

Hello there
I ran into the same issues since I also transported my Rivian R1T 2022 from Los Angeles to Gabon, my home country. Everything was dead. Both 12V batteries and also HV battery. I managed to jumpstart the 12V batteries to get the displays on. It worked but I believe they were really not good because they died a hour after. So I bought some new ones. Another thing regarding the main battery. I had to call my electrician to adapt the connector of my portable charger to have the Nemo 14 50/240V work right. When I tried with the 220V connector with an 110 to 220V adapter it wasn’t working. You got to have the right current in order to charge. Now it works. But the main issue I have to solve is to get the displays back !! And I tried most of the proposals I had on the forum. Still nothing . But I have faith because it’s a great vehicle ?

In the USA we use what is called split phase where a neutral is tapped from the middle of the phase to get 110v. Additionally two hot 110v 180 degree phase leads provide 240v when used. Some countries utilize one 240v hot and one neutral. This means that if you wire the neutral to the neutral on the rivian 14-50 and the 240v hot to a hot lead on the 14-50, you won't get the desired result. The rivian ignores the neutral connection.

This is a similar issue as needing a special tt30 adapter for EVs to step the 14-50 down to 110v for high current.

What's a shame is that rivian makes a three phase harness as well that can utilize the spare hot leads the EU offers with ccs2 for much faster charging than nacs or ccs1.

 

[Cycliste]

In the USA we use what is called split phase where a neutral is tapped from the middle of the phase to get 110v. Additionally two hot 110v 180 degree phase leads provide 240v when used. Some countries utilize one 240v hot and one neutral. This means that if you wire the neutral to the neutral on the rivian 14-50 and the 240v hot to a hot lead on the 14-50, you won't get the desired result. The rivian ignores the neutral connection.

This is a similar issue as needing a special tt30 adapter for EVs to step the 14-50 down to 110v for high current.

So, what you are saying is, “Electricity is magic?"

 

[HaveBlue]

So, what you are saying is, “Electricity is magic?"

I wouldn't go that far but it is pretty shocking

 

[Ingo]

I got myself into a new challenge. Having transported my Rivian overseas for some winter adventures I found out upon arrival the 12v was completely dead and the main battery was at zero. This must have happened during transportation. I managed to connect the rear bumper 12v plugs to a basic charger to get the screen to respond and then plug the vehicle to the standard vehicle charger that comes with the car. The car responded by turning on the lights on the drivers side, the light on the charger turned white, but it did not begin to charge the main battery. No green light and the main battery still is unresponsive. My guess is that the 12 v is completely gone and needs more than an awakening. My next bet is to have it fully charged or restored and then try again to connect the main battery to a charger to get some juice on.
I understand that some of you may suggest the car be transported to a RIVIAN service center. This is not an option for now. I chose to stay adventurous with my transportation overseas any ideas and suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

UPDATE: Thank you all for your insights and comments. Since my troubles began I have managed to:
1. Pull out the wires that nestle behind the tow hitch at the rear. Connect to a charger and open the vehicle.
2. Get into the frunk and remove the 12V battery. (There is only one in my car)
3. Charge the battery and get it to a normal state again.
4. Manage to open the frunk again by pulling the cable that lies hidden behind the plastic cover by the driver-side wheelbase (the frunk accidentally latched close when the battery had come out.
5. Re-connect the old but now fully charged battery.
6. Re-set the computer using the steering wheel buttons.
7. plug the Rivian into a charger and luckily witness green charging lights flashing.

I am sure this will not be the last adventure in Iceland.

Thanks again.
Ingo

 

[Ingo]

Hello there
I ran into the same issues since I also transported my Rivian R1T 2022 from Los Angeles to Gabon, my home country. Everything was dead. Both 12V batteries and also HV battery. I managed to jumpstart the 12V batteries to get the displays on. It worked but I believe they were really not good because they died a hour after. So I bought some new ones. Another thing regarding the main battery. I had to call my electrician to adapt the connector of my portable charger to have the Nemo 14 50/240V work right. When I tried with the 220V connector with an 110 to 220V adapter it wasn’t working. You got to have the right current in order to charge. Now it works. But the main issue I have to solve is to get the displays back !! And I tried most of the proposals I had on the forum. Still nothing . But I have faith because it’s a great vehicle ?

Thanks for the input. I got the truck back to life. See my post reply

 

[pangpang77]

UPDATE: Thank you all for your insights and comments. Since my troubles began I have managed to:
1. Pull out the wires that nestle behind the tow hitch at the rear. Connect to a charger and open the vehicle.
2. Get into the frunk and remove the 12V battery. (There is only one in my car)
3. Charge the battery and get it to a normal state again.
4. Manage to open the frunk again by pulling the cable that lies hidden behind the plastic cover by the driver-side wheelbase (the frunk accidentally latched close when the battery had come out.
5. Re-connect the old but now fully charged battery.
6. Re-set the computer using the steering wheel buttons.
7. plug the Rivian into a charger and luckily witness green charging lights flashing.

I am sure this will not be the last adventure in Iceland.

Thanks again.
Ingo

Congrats! Now that you’re there you really should take some pictures of your truck in Iceland. It would be great to have an R1 next to a glacier!

 

[Cycliste]

Congrats! Now that you’re there you really should take some pictures of your truck in Iceland. It would be great to have an R1 next to a glacier!

That is next to a volcano!

https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/images/146116/icelands-volcanic-glacier

 

[Joel]

I had put in a cautionary tale here regarding another owner (in another forum) having their warranty denied by Rivian for switching to the Ohmmu battery.

Not trying to start anything; just trying to make sure everyone is aware of that risk. I'd probably call Rivian and ask them their advice before using a battery if they truly won't support it.

That post was deleted because...? I guess I'm not allowed to mention competing forums by name. Sorry about that MODS. PS: you really need a way for us to be able to respond directly to you instead of this nonsense where I can only see your comments in the "Alerts" Section.

Warranty of what specifically? Rivian has to prove the battery was an issue to deny warranty. But as per usual it seems most manufacturers are just bullies even the new ones.

 

[HaveBlue]

I would disconnect the 12V battery for shipping or longer storage. I'd maybe even wire it through a marine disconnect hidden near the frunk release if I couldn't figure out which fuses are causing the habitual drain.

 

[R1Thor]

Warranty of what specifically? Rivian has to prove the battery was an issue to deny warranty. But as per usual it seems most manufacturers are just bullies even the new ones.

I'm definitely not the person who was impacted--as I'd mentioned, this is something I'd read.

However, my understanding is that his entire truck went into limp mode after he'd installed them, due to incompatibility (asserted by Rivian), and they were henceforth refusing to fix it under warranty.

EDIT:
That said, this would probably be one area I'd anticipate you not winning against the Moss-Magnuson act. It's an ELECTRIC vehicle specified with ELECTRIC parts and if you change an ELECTRONIC component that they are stating is INCOMPATIBLE with the vehicle, then ... the burden of proof is easy. Did you replace an electronic powertrain component and thenceforth did the electronic powertrain on the vehicle fail? I mean... you're going to be paying an enormous amount of cash to litigate this one. And I personally sit 5 feet from an EE with his Masters degree who to paraphrase 'If I didn't spec it, I wouldn't swap it out, unless the aftermarket is 1:1 compatible.' It'll take an 'expert' from Rivian to eat your lunch to say "the system was designed for X battery, not Y battery."

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