In search for a true ignition 12v trigger

[Spaceball1]

I’m sure I’m not the only one looking for this. Basically I want to wire a couple of things to a true ignition 12v trigger, meaning it won’t turn on until the brake is hit and the systems “boot up” which is very similar to an ICE ignition trigger. I have checked a ton of factory fuses in both fuse panels but have yet to find anything.

Only thing I find is either constant 12V or what I’d call “accessory 12V” which means it will trigger when the truck is woken up or you walk near it with your PAAK. This is a pain for some devices, specifically my CarPlay unit that when it turns on my phone will connect to it. I know many others have had this same issue with CarPlay units especially now that EVSportline has one specific for the Rivians. The other device is my radar detector, which I hear boot up all the time when walking around in my garage (minor annoyance).

I have an interesting idea I may explore, and would be using the power to the front daytime running lights (light bar) to trigger a relay back to my devices under the dash. A pain to run a wire that far, and I’m also unsure of all the situations that the DRL would turn off/on so even if this works it may end up causes other annoyances ?

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[R1Thor]

Let me know if you find a solution, as I'm having the same issue you're having with your EV sportline AA/CP kit. Especially as the truck is in my garage not 35 feet from me, I'm getting really annoyed with my phone suddenly opening Waze and playing music when I'm just sitting around minding my own business...

I was seriously contemplating just wiring in a hard switch I have to manually flip myself, but I haven't found a place I want to mount it, and I'm reticent to drill holes in my truck at the moment (and want to keep the wires stealthily out of the way...).

That said, if the DRLs are a good solution, you shouldn't have to wire via relay all the way to the DRLs themselves; just need to find the relay/fuse for them (I'm guessing somewhere under the hood?).

I'm not even certain what the 'accessory' EV Sportline Identified does otherwise--I don't have the wherewithal to experiment with it at the moment.

 

[Spaceball1]

I believe the fuse EV Sportline says to tap into is for the usb ports, so acts just like mine does (I hardwired mine to the 12v plug under dash, tapping that wire). I was hoping to find the fuse for the DRL but cannot find one for it. I think there is a control module that is fused and controls multiple things, but the individual things like the DRL do not have their own fuse. I don’t know of a fuse panel under the hood though I haven’t explored it myself yet.

Technically my CarPlay screen is not the EVSportline but it is a nearly identical version I got on Amazon before they started selling theirs.

 

[R1Thor]

I believe the fuse EV Sportline says to tap into is for the usb ports, so acts just like mine does (I hardwired mine to the 12v plug under dash, tapping that wire). I was hoping to find the fuse for the DRL but cannot find one for it. I think there is a control module that is fused and controls multiple things, but the individual things like the DRL do not have their own fuse. I don’t know of a fuse panel under the hood though I haven’t explored it myself yet.

Technically my CarPlay screen is not the EVSportline but it is a nearly identical version I got on Amazon before they started selling theirs.

I found this:


It'd require some testing, but I wonder if the headlamp fuses are live until the vehicle is 'started.'

Might have to pull out my multimeter at some point and do some testing...

EDIT: That said, this problem could theoretically go away on its own should Rivian continue to improve the random waking-events (I know it's gotten 'better,' but there's still quite a bit of room for improvement, in my opinion)

 

[Spaceball1]

Yup I found that Reddit too with the fuse block diagrams. I systematically checked several of them that I could decipher and ones I couldn’t too, but nothing was linked to the ignition. I tried parking lamps, head lamps, etc. it must be a control module controlling those because I found many to be hot with accessory even when the device wasn’t on (like the headlamps) ?‍ That’s why I’m wondering if I would need to tie directly to the device, such as the DRL, to get this to work the way I want ?

 

[azbill]

EDIT: That said, this problem could theoretically go away on its own should Rivian continue to improve the random waking-events (I know it's gotten 'better,' but there's still quite a bit of room for improvement, in my opinion)

Rivian could solve a lot of issues by providing a true on/off button, like all my other vehicles have. Simple solution would be to use the Park button. Push once for park, a second push turns off. Get back in, push Park to turn it on. No more random on and off crap.

I prefer to be in complete control of my cars, not having them think for me.

 

[RexRemus]

Rivian could solve a lot of issues by providing a true on/off button, like all my other vehicles have. Simple solution would be to use the Park button. Push once for park, a second push turns off. Get back in, push Park to turn it on. No more random on and off crap.

I prefer to be in complete control of my cars, not having them think for me.

I mean with a little work, adding an actual physical switch of your own IS doable...

 

[NY_Rob]

I mean with a little work, adding an actual physical switch of your own IS doable...

This might be the only practical solution seeing how there is no "IGN" terminal like there was back in the day. They sell really small toggle/slider/latching push button switches nowadays that could be mounted down low on the cover panel on the driver side where no one but you would ever notice it.

 

[Spaceball1]

Rivian could solve a lot of issues by providing a true on/off button, like all my other vehicles have. Simple solution would be to use the Park button. Push once for park, a second push turns off. Get back in, push Park to turn it on. No more random on and off crap.

I prefer to be in complete control of my cars, not having them think for me.

No thanks, my Kia EV6 has this and I hate it. I leave the car with it on all the time because it’s an extra unnecessary step and one I’m not used to since the Rivian is my primary car (as was a Model Y before that).

We had the Model Y for 3 years before it and I see no point to an on/off switch and got used to not having one. The brake IS the on/off switch in the Rivian (and Teslas) and that does the same thing as an on/off switch, so what’s the point?

 

[usulio]

I mean with a little work, adding an actual physical switch of your own IS doable...

I like this. If you really needed to avoid phantom drain, it could presumably help.

Unfortunately it would only be an off switch, you'd have to implement something fancier if you want the car to stay on.

 

[azbill]

No thanks, my Kia EV6 has this and I hate it. I leave the car with it on all the time because it’s an extra unnecessary step and one I’m not used to since the Rivian is my primary car (as was a Model Y before that).

We had the Model Y for 3 years before it and I see no point to an on/off switch and got used to not having one. The brake IS the on/off switch in the Rivian (and Teslas) and that does the same thing as an on/off switch, so what’s the point?

I do a lot of truck stuff that you probably never do, where I want the truck either completely off or completely on.

Tailgating
Camping
Checking trailer lights
Working near the truck in my shop
Loading and unloading stuff at my wife’s office building
Using power tools from the truck bed
Etc.

 

[sub]

Have you looked into software solutions?

On an Android phone you could use the Tasker app to tell your phone to not connect to the EV sportline device until after it has connected to the OEM Rivian bluetooth audio. That would prevent unwanted connections to the EV sportline device.

Based on your use of the word Carplay, I assume you are an apple user, but perhaps there is a way to do something similar with an Apple phone?

 

[Spaceball1]

I do a lot of truck stuff that you probably never do, where I want the truck either completely off or completely on.

Tailgating
Camping
Checking trailer lights
Working near the truck in my shop
Loading and unloading stuff at my wife’s office building
Using power tools from the truck bed
Etc.

I do many of these things. I don’t see what your point is. There is camping modes specifically for this, you can turn on the plugs independent of the car being on or off too. I’d rather have those features on independent of the truck being on anyway, so to properly use power where you want it.

I agree with the car booting up when I’m near it is annoying, which is why I’m looking for the ignition 12v source. I work in my garage a lot and walking back and forth I’ll hear the truck boot up all the time. Won’t fix the issue completely but at least will stop some of the annoyances I mentioned. Something Rivian needs to address in their “wake up” algorithm, but wouldn’t be fixed with a start/stop button. I didn’t have this issue with Tesla so it can be done.

 

[Spaceball1]

Have you looked into software solutions?

On an Android phone you could use the Tasker app to tell your phone to not connect to the EV sportline device until after it has connected to the OEM Rivian bluetooth audio. That would prevent unwanted connections to the EV sportline device.

Based on your use of the word Carplay, I assume you are an apple user, but perhaps there is a way to do something similar with an Apple phone?

I’ll have to look into that. I’m not sure if Apple has something like that. Also, I’m not sure if the car waking up starts the connection to Rivian audio as well as the CarPlay device or not, but worth looking into!

 

[kylealden]

Rivian could solve a lot of issues by providing a true on/off button

No offense, but I'd much rather you be forced to add an on-off button for your accessories than me and every other owner be forced to use an on-off button so you don't have to add one.

I'd much prefer Rivian solve this problem with built-in switched accessory power that integrates with the UI (and sure, optional overhead buttons or something if you're into that kind of thing). The lack of accessory power is kind of a miss for an adventure vehicle, but I definitely don't want to compromise the simplicity and aesthetics of the current inputs & software.

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