Charging Ecoflow Delta Pro Ultra with Rivian R1T outlet

[Ratchickens]

I got my new AC to DC power supply today and so far so good. I had some issues with the voltage bouncing around at 100V 10A but once I changed to 90V 15A it’s been supplying just over 1300W consistently. I ran it for 15 minutes today without issue. I’ll run a longer term test to ensure it doesn’t trip eventually.

edit: link to power supply

Sponsored

 

[Ratchickens]

I ran the setup from my last post for two hours this evening without issue.

 

[Ratchickens]

One problem I discovered after the fact is that the power cable included with the power supply is only rated for 10A. I ended up going with one rated for 15A.

 

[chimanlau]

I appreciate your post Rotchichens, I am on the same boat but working with an SHP2 with the DP3. Would you show us the parts(cables) you used for this setup? I am not handy with soldering so I would worry about not being able to connect the endpoints correctly.

Again thanks for your post.

John (also in Seattle and had a 6-day blackout recently)

One problem I discovered after the fact is that the power cable included with the power supply is only rated for 10A. I ended up going with one rated for 15A.

 

[Ratchickens]

I appreciate your post Rotchichens, I am on the same boat but working with an SHP2 with the DP3. Would you show us the parts(cables) you used for this setup? I am not handy with soldering so I would worry about not being able to connect the endpoints correctly.

Again thanks for your post.

John (also in Seattle and had a 6-day blackout recently)

there was no soldering in my setup.

here is everything I bought.

MC4 Cable I cut this in half and wired it so red and black lined up with the polarity of the power supply.

Ring connectors to attach cable to the power supply. I crimped these connectors onto the cut in half cable.

Im going to try to replace this setup by using the XT90 output from the power supply with this cable to make it a little less janky.

Power Supply
Power supply cable rated for 15A.
10AWG extension cord

 

[chimanlau]

Thanks. I just got the parts and am getting ready to test. Have you thought about getting a Lipo battery in the middle also?

 

[Ratchickens]

Thanks. I just got the parts and am getting ready to test. Have you thought about getting a Lipo battery in the middle also?

In an extended outage I’d likely leave it connected until I used my generator to quickly fill up the EcoFlow. My main use case here is being able to go 12-14 hours without having to run the generator and with my 12 kWh EcoFlow + the Rivian that should work out.

 

[Ratchickens]

I have one final change to my setup. The XT90 cable I ordered didn’t have the right polarity MC4 connectors so instead I got an XT90 pigtail 10AWG cable and a MC4 connector kit to make my own cable that matched up with the Low PV cable on the EcoFlow.

After all of this the power will likely not go out for years.

 

[HyperionMark]

Anyone have experience with Anker and how well they fit in the gear tunnel?

 

[SeaGeo]

Anyone have experience with Anker and how well they fit in the gear tunnel?

which model are you thinking? That will determine if the pack fits in my coat pocket or is the size of a beer keg. ?

 

[Forager]

I’ve been wondering about taking DC power off the leads for the on-board inverter and installing a DC to DC charger, in turn using that DC power to supply something like the Anker Solix F3800. The F3800 allows DC input while supplying 240v split-phase up to 6000W, plenty for critical home loads. Using 120v AC to bypass charge a 240v power supplies introduces so many complications!

 

[DeafPug]

The Anker Solix F3800 looks to have two DC inputs for charging from solar panels. Each of those are rated at 11-60 Volts DC. The manual states

The solar input voltage range for Anker SOLIX F3800 is 11-60V. Please ensure the voltage of connected solar panels is within this range. Voltage exceeding 60V will damage the product.

I would expect hooking the 60V DC input of this battery to the 400+ V DC battery output of the Rivian main battery to "release the magic smoke" (permanently damage) the Solix and not be covered by warranty. Or is there another DC input that I'm not aware of?

Also, in general, I would be very afraid of playing around with the DC power coming out of the battery. There's a reason all of those cables are orange.

Edit: I see you do mention a DC/DC charger, so not a direct connection with the issue of a voltage mismatch, but I would still be concerned about accessing the DC power directly from the battery.

 

[SeaGeo]

I’ve been wondering about taking DC power off the leads for the on-board inverter and installing a DC to DC charger, in turn using that DC power to supply something like the Anker Solix F3800. The F3800 allows DC input while supplying 240v split-phase up to 6000W, plenty for critical home loads. Using 120v AC to bypass charge a 240v power supplies introduces so many complications!

So a simpler (though less efficient) approach is to pull the AC from the truck and charge the Anker with DC. I'm assuming you understand that's what is happening with the Delta above, but just in case.

I'm also doing that with a Jackery 2000 plus.

 

[Forager]

So a simpler (though less efficient) approach is to pull the AC from the truck and charge the Anker with DC. I'm assuming you understand that's what is happening with the Delta above, but just in case.

I'm also doing that with a Jackery 2000 plus.

Yes! The rectifier/AC-DC “chargeverter” (EG4 model) seems to be the most straightforward plug and play route. The appeal of the DC-DC charger is the high voltage cables to the current inverter supply pack voltage (IIRC 216-4v nominal) and are fused at 15A, so one could pull a substantial load from the pack without the charging loses. Im sure someone will do this eventually, but probably not while the vehicles are in warranty and maybe not even on Gen 2 since that fuse is in the pack…

I haven’t investigated the Jackery 2000 plus, will look at that option. Have you been able to run yours long enough to feel like it’s a sustainable solution for a long term outage?

*edited to correct pack voltage range

 

[SeaGeo]

Yes! The rectifier/AC-DC “chargeverter” (EG4 model) seems to be the most straightforward plug and play route. The appeal of the DC-DC charger is the high voltage cables to the current inverter supply pack voltage (IIRC 216-4v nominal) and are fused at 15A, so one could pull a substantial load from the pack without the charging loses. Im sure someone will do this eventually, but probably not while the vehicles are in warranty and maybe not even on Gen 2 since that fuse is in the pack…

I haven’t investigated the Jackery 2000 plus, will look at that option. Have you been able to run yours long enough to feel like it’s a sustainable solution for a long term outage?

*edited to correct pack voltage range

I totally get what you're going for with the DC-DC approach. It's just less straightforward than I was looking for, and I honestly don't care about some energy losses given the lack size (an two of the packs, lol).

The chargeverter from EG4 is... Expensive and overkill IMO.

With the Jackery what I did is find two AC-DC inverters (Jackery has two solar inputs to maximize) that are sized accordingly, and run those. I ended up with two basic ones that were about $75/each. I at one point I tested a name brand inverter and the company just didn't have quite the power output combination that I wanted despite costing quite a bit more.

Sponsored