Upgrade to Gen2 Performance (lease) from Gen1 Quad?

[seatosummit]

I have a May '22 Quad that I absolutely love. It has 53k miles on it and the out of warranty costs scare me.

My monthly loan service is $1137.

I can lease a gen2 dual performance with audio + vision, off road package for $1042/month with nothing down except taxes, acquisition fee, doc/title/etc. at ~$4600.

This is with 6k positive equity in my gen1 that they valued at $43k. KBB indicates a higher estimate ($46-51k)

Weighing the possible decline in value if I wait any longer vs the possible (likely?) incentives to come as the year rolls on.

Having some cognitive dissonance and need advice!

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[McLovin]

I’d look at the lease deals, since you’ll get the $7,500 EV credit. You can always buy it out at then end of the lease if you want.

 

[seatosummit]

Hey @McLovin -- yes! definitely, that is what I am intending to do, I should have made that clear in the initial post. I will revise for clarity.

 

[Great Gatsby]

Have you test driven it? On paper, the power doesn't seem like much of a difference but IMO the dynamics of the quad provide a better driving experience than the dual.

 

[lefkonj]

I did a similar thing in April. Massive savings on my monthly.

 

[seatosummit]

Have you test driven it? On paper, the power doesn't seem like much of a difference but IMO the dynamics of the quad provide a better driving experience than the dual.

I drove a DM performance last week when I was in for service and agree that the response off the line in AP mode is not as hair raising, but I found sport mode to be plenty gut burying.

I loved the lack of suspension noise. The doors feel lighter, but not cheap by any stretch. I liked the upgraded gen2 audio, but its not as rich as my Meridian. Opaque roof glass is cool, too.

I have a water tank that is molded for my gen1, but I don't think that would fit in the smaller frunk of the gen2.

 

[waitingonanr1s]

The roughness of the disengagement and reengagement of the rear motors killed any thought of going from Gen1 Quad to Gen2 Dual Performance for me. I'd be fine with the hp reduction, but that drives me nuts anytime I put my Tri-Max on eco - so know I made the right decision for me on this topic.

 

[seatosummit]

I've heard it was pretty rough on the gen1 enduros but it got better with the gen2s as they refined the clutch engagement tuning? Tri would be preferable, for sure, but the ultimate objective here is to refresh my warranty without substantially adding to my monthly vehicle expense.

 

[Great Gatsby]

I've heard it was pretty rough on the gen1 enduros but it got better with the gen2s as they refined the clutch engagement tuning? Tri would be preferable, for sure, but the ultimate objective here is to refresh my warranty without substantially adding to my monthly vehicle expense.

Playing the devil on the shoulder here but...the tri is so nice, specially with the ascend interior

 

[RivAW]

I did a similar thing in April. Massive savings on my monthly.

Maybe for you but OP stated his monthly saving would be ~$95 (after putting down ~$4600)….thats not massive savings (or really any savings if you extrapolate that over the term of the lease. The real decision is whether one is comfortable owning past warranty….

 

[MikeWilliams_R1T]

I've heard it was pretty rough on the gen1 enduros but it got better with the gen2s as they refined the clutch engagement tuning? Tri would be preferable, for sure, but the ultimate objective here is to refresh my warranty without substantially adding to my monthly vehicle expense.

I drive a gen1 dual motor performance... I am pretty sure the hardware is the same in the Enduro drive units from gen1 to gen2. I will say that over the last 4 or 5 software updates, they have tuned the "clunk" quite a bit. It is still most noticeable if you are at highway speed and hit the accelerator briskly.

The rumor is there will be a new DM drive mode pretty soon that leaves AWD either locked in or locked out all the time (like conserve mode).

 

[ATLRivvy]

Maybe for you but OP stated his monthly saving would be ~$95 (after putting down ~$4600)….thats not massive savings (or really any savings if you extrapolate that over the term of the lease. The real decision is whether one is comfortable owning past warranty….

OP is doing funny math here - there are no savings at all. He is spending $6000 in “positive equity” + $4600 to get the new car. That’s paying $10,600 to reduce monthly cash outflow by $95/month. Unless he is getting a 10-year lease he isn’t saving a thing.

 

[iansriv]

If you love your G1-get extended warranty and keep on loving!

 

[MikeWilliams_R1T]

OP is doing funny math here - there are no savings at all. He is spending $6000 in “positive equity” + $4600 to get the new car. That’s paying $10,600 to reduce monthly cash outflow by $95/month. Unless he is getting a 10-year lease he isn’t saving a thing.

The trade in value on his Gen1 is as high as it will ever be. After 60k miles, the value will be a falling knife when the warranty is gone.

The value will drop much quicker after 60k miles.

It might be worth it for him. Everybody has their own standards on making a new purchase decision.

 

[ATLRivvy]

The trade in value on his Gen1 is as high as it will ever be. After 60k miles, the value will be a falling knife when the warranty is gone.

The value will drop much quicker after 60k miles.

It might be worth it for him. Everybody has their own standards on making a new purchase decision.

I’m not making any comment on OPs decisionmaking or whether it’s worth it - not my money, not my call. Im just clarifying that OPs valuation on the cost of the decision is wrong according to their own numbers.

Trade-ins have value - in this case OP says that value is $6000 above the remaining loan. That’s means trading it in is the same as PAYING Rivian $6000. So cost of the the new car is not just the $4600 in taxes/acquisition charges. It’s that PLUS $6000. Whether the trade is worth $10,600 to save $95 in monthly cash outflow plus get the new model is fully up to OP

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