Added 12v outlet to R1T bed.

[ndmiller]

I have an ICEgo20 cooler and plug into a small bluetti that will run it for about 10 hours. I plug the bluetti into the Rivian when needed. These little coolers use power to get cold, but once cold they essentially sip power.

Sometimes I lay the solar panels on the bed to charge the bluetti when out for a day at the soccer fields. You setup is alot slicker, but I can move this one between vehicles (Tesla).

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[sizotty]

Nice write up and solution OP!

regarding the chatter about the AC inverter, that’s very true, it’s extremely power hungry. I made a video about it here.
Don’t Make This Camping Mistake!

 

[Sojhinn]

I think we can tap into the compressor power there. I think on gen1 it's connected to a 60 A fuse. Would be an easy add. Peeps interested?

 

[BigSkies]

I think we can tap into the compressor power there. I think on gen1 it's connected to a 60 A fuse. Would be an easy add. Peeps interested?

I'm very interested in the concept, but details matter.

I have a desire to get a 12V power source in the bed, but limited willingness to take on something complex and/or destructive.

 

[Sojhinn]

I'm very interested in the concept, but details matter.

I have a desire to get a 12V power source in the bed, but limited willingness to take on something complex and/or destructive.

Won't be complex. Can easily t off the connector there. As for the 12v.... Best would be to cut a small hole like op. But we could also create a simple mount that plugs Into gear guard.

 

[mkhuffman]

Won't be complex. Can easily t off the connector there. As for the 12v.... Best would be to cut a small hole like op. But we could also create a simple mount that plugs Into gear guard.

I am interested, especially if it adds the ability to attach a high-powered inverter.

 

[mudito]

Unrelated question @Curtis Novak . How easy or hard is to remove that side trim panel? I need to do some PDR work and would like NOT to remove the top trim one as I'm aware it has single-use clips

thanks!

 

[Sojhinn]

I am interested, especially if it adds the ability to attach a high-powered inverter.

High powered inverter would not possible or recommended. At that point use the 120v.

 

[srkz]

I think we can tap into the compressor power there. I think on gen1 it's connected to a 60 A fuse. Would be an easy add. Peeps interested?

Definitely interested, I'd buy the kit. Especially if you made a Y harness with the same plugs:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-DEUTSCH/DT04-3P-E004

so it was plug and play with no t-taps or anything. I'd still personally drill the hole in the side panel for a similar clean installation as OP though.

 

[sean_k]

I think we can tap into the compressor power there. I think on gen1 it's connected to a 60 A fuse. Would be an easy add. Peeps interested?

i would definitely buy a kit

 

[Curtis Novak]

Unrelated question @Curtis Novak . How easy or hard is to remove that side trim panel? I need to do some PDR work and would like NOT to remove the top trim one as I'm aware it has single-use clips

thanks!

It was super simple. You first have to remove the back panel if I remember right. Then there is only a few bolts ad the 2 tie down and the panel lays right down without effecting the top trim. It should show in the pics I posted.

 

[Curtis Novak]

I think we can tap into the compressor power there. I think on gen1 it's connected to a 60 A fuse. Would be an easy add. Peeps interested?

I do not disagree, I also considered in tapping in to the trailer plug. I am just really reluctant to void any warranty by splicing wires which I stated in the OP which is why I ran the wire from the gear tunnel.

 

[srkz]

So I just completed this mod on my truck. I put the outlet in the same spot as OP but rather than fishing the cable all the way up to the gear tunnel I made a little add-on harness to tap the 12V from the air compressor that’s right there without cutting or splicing anything. Completely removable and easily replaceable if the outlet ever burns out or gets loose or anything.

I didn’t take many pictures because mine looks just like OPs except for the harness. I can list the parts I used if anyone wants - total cost was only about $25 for everything assuming you have tools already.

Thanks for doing the hard work finding a spot with clearance and proving it can be done Curtis! I couldn’t believe how hot the cab got running the inverter 24/7 so this will make camping with my cooler much nicer.

 

[Curtis Novak]

So I just completed this mod on my truck. I put the outlet in the same spot as OP but rather than fishing the cable all the way up to the gear tunnel I made a little add-on harness to tap the 12V from the air compressor that’s right there without cutting or splicing anything. Completely removable and easily replaceable if the outlet ever burns out or gets loose or anything.

I didn’t take many pictures because mine looks just like OPs except for the harness. I can list the parts I used if anyone wants - total cost was only about $25 for everything assuming you have tools already.

Thanks for doing the hard work finding a spot with clearance and proving it can be done Curtis! I couldn’t believe how hot the cab got running the inverter 24/7 so this will make camping with my cooler much nicer.

Love it! I am definitely interested in your parts list
Curtis

 

[srkz]

Okay so you basically just need a Deutsch DT 3-pin plug and receptacle, plus the pins and wedge locks. I was going to make a list of all the part numbers but essentially you just need these three things off of Amazon:

Deutsch connectors and pins:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJSL8YHH

12V socket with inline 10A fuse and wire:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H1MGWFN

Crimp tool if you don't have one already:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1FR76Q7

The harness coming from the truck to the utility panel has a +12V (red wire with blue stripe on mine), -12V (black wire), and a white control wire for the gear guard lock. The side coming from the truck is the male DT plug that has the female pins in it.

To make the harness, start by making three male pins. One should have a short red wire (couple inches) and the longer red wire from the 12V socket that has the fuse in line. Strip the ends and twist both together, then crimp them in a single male pin. Do the same with the black wires - one short passthrough wire the exact same length as the red one, plus the longer black wire that will go to the 12V socket. Twist those together and crimp into a single male pin. Finally make a third pass through wire for the data pin the same length as the other short ones and crimp one end into a male pin. Insert the three male pins and their wires through the rubber waterproofing boot and into the female receptacle until they click satisfyingly into place. Clip a wedge lock on top to hold the pins in place.

Next, strip and crimp the ends of the short pass through wires into female pins and insert them into a male DT plug taking care to line them up in the same position as the original connector. Insert a wedge lock to hold those in place as well.

Bonus: Hold the harness up to the truck and measure the length you need to get to the 12V socket, then trim the longer 12V wires to the appropriate length, strip the ends, and crimp on new female spade connectors so there's no extra wire to deal with.

Plug it all back in and re-assemble everything and you're good to go.

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