0°F 110V charging test

[Plummer43]

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/losing-range-while-charging.11145/post-255138

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[W1SE]

I live in a condo and only have access at home to level 1 (plenty of free level 2s nearby though.) Can anyone that understands batteries and charging better explain if spending energy on conditioning the battery is actually necessary for such low power going in? I'll be slightly annoyed if I have to hit up the local level 2s because the Phoenix heat won't let me charge on our 110v without constant draw. I only just got my truck, so I haven't even given the outlet a go yet. No commute, so it's fine if it only gives a few miles, but losing miles would be a bummer.

IMO with Rivian a level 1 only works to keep battery at a specific charge or gain 1-2 miles per hour if temps are okay. But should never be your main source of charging. You will be spending too much time and money at a charger to go anywhere. My son has a mini SE and he only uses level 1. But it’s a much smaller vehicle with a 105 mile range and he has a 3 mile commute.

 

[Jack Smoke]

Is .8-1.2kwh really require battery conditioning? Over 7000 cells, seems unnecessary.

That’s a great question, I hope someone has an answer

 

[MrMetlHed]

IMO with Rivian a level 1 only works to keep battery at a specific charge or gain 1-2 miles per hour if temps are okay. But should never be your main source of charging. You will be spending too much time and money at a charger to go anywhere. My son has a mini SE and he only uses level 1. But it’s a much smaller vehicle with a 105 mile range and he has a 3 mile commute.

Yeah. Like I said, plenty of free level 2 in a very short walk from home. No commute, only a few miles a day normally to pick up the kiddo from school. We have a 4xe and don't need to charge every night and it only has a 20 mile range. A couple of miles an hour is more than enough most of the time for me if that's a reliable figure and not doomed by vampire drain and battery conditioning. We'll see how it goes. May just need to plug in at the level 2 at the restaurant next door once a week before they open.

 

[jakef801]

I took the Riv to local ChargePoint 150 kwh, and it went from 6% to 92% in about 45 minutes. Total cost was $13.60. I came back home and, I , ,reluctantly, plugged the 110V back in - out of sheer curiosity. 3 hours later, status quo. Nothing lost or gained (yes, I have charging limit set to 100% since I'm way out here in the cold). Just sharing real world stuff here that might benefit someone and/or be seen by the powers that be.

 

[jakef801]

I see these temperature numbers and I remember all the years I lived in WI and it makes me throw up in my mouth a little bit. I'm glad I live someplace that doesn't try to kill me with arctic weather anymore.

I try to be in Coronado, CA or Wailea, Maui as much as possible. But I'm a born and bred Utahn by heart. And the air up here on Bear Lake is crystal clear. Yesterday, snowmobiling, with 4 others was stunning. Not a cloud in the sky and you could see 40 miles or more from the ridge lines. I could see the Uintas as clear as day, which are 100 miles away. That's what always draws me back and why I'll keep it as my homebase.

 

[Ngkgb]

Yeah. Like I said, plenty of free level 2 in a very short walk from home. No commute, only a few miles a day normally to pick up the kiddo from school. We have a 4xe and don't need to charge every night and it only has a 20 mile range. A couple of miles an hour is more than enough most of the time for me if that's a reliable figure and not doomed by vampire drain and battery conditioning. We'll see how it goes. May just need to plug in at the level 2 at the restaurant next door once a week before they open.

I charge a lot with the level 1 at home and always get 2 mi/hr. Csr is parked outside overnight temps dip into high 30s/low 40s.

 

[zipzag]

If your charging at 110v either the utility has a transformer issue or you have bad wiring. Or perhaps have time travelled with your Rivian.

Knowing correct nominal voltages allows the EV owner to spot electrical problems. 120V, 240V or 208V when the level 2 charger is using part of a split phase commercial circuit (which is common for public level 2 chargers)

The charger itself is designed for a wide range of voltages. But if you see 110V or 220V the circuit wiring is likely inadequate and you are very likely heating up wiring. The other rare reason would be that the utility is at or in brownout conditions.

 

[jakef801]

If your charging at 110v either the utility has a transformer issue or you have bad wiring. Or perhaps have time travelled with your Rivian.

Knowing correct nominal voltages allows the EV owner to spot electrical problems. 120V, 240V or 208V when the level 2 charger is using part of a split phase commercial circuit (which is common for public level 2 chargers)

The charger itself is designed for a wide range of voltages. But if you see 110V or 220V the circuit wiring is likely inadequate and you are very likely heating up wiring. The other rare reason would be that the utility is at or in brownout conditions.

Works fine in warm weather. Doesn't in sub freezing temps.

 

[Turnipsaregreat]

I took the Riv to local ChargePoint 150 kwh,

Glad to know those new chargers are faster. I used the other ones down by Ephraim's last year in our old Leaf, but with that car I never expected anything over 50kwh anyways.

 

[Marchin_MTB]

I was charging from L1 during summer to early fall and was able to do just fine, 2-3ish miles per hour. We had an early October trip to Moab planned before we got our Rivian and the rental Condo did not have L2. We got there and temperatures overnight fell to the low 40s. The L1 charging rate also fell by quite a bit. I wasn’t loosing SOC nor range but the charging rate was significantly smaller. At the time, I couldn’t tell if it was the temperatures or the fact that I had to use an extension cord. That combine with the almost complete lack of functional chargers in Moab made things a little stressful.

 

[Thedude]

Level one charging in extreme cold had the same loss effect for me. However, it did warm up the battery significantly which solved the issue I had with turtle mode and nearly no power available. The grayed out area of the power meter was nearly 75% due to the cold and lower state of charge, after charging for 45 minutes or so the grayed out area was only about 30% and the truck wasn’t in turtle mode.

 

[av8or]

I don’t have my home charger installed yet so I’ve been getting a dcfc on the way home. I’ve noticed with my truck (it may be isolated to my truck) that if I go straight home and plug in the 110v after dc charging there’s a hum under the front and I get almost nothing overnight, maybe 5 miles, but if it does a sleep cycle before I plug in I can get 30-35. I’m thinking about opening a ticket for this.

edit to add; My truck is in a climate controlled garage so air temperature isn’t a factor.

 

[atebit]

I bet the battery conditioning was being used to warm the battery for charging.

+1, there was another post earlier in the season where the consensus opinion was that the truck consumes more energy just trying to heat up the battery than the mobile charger can supply from (less than) 15A@110V.

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