Since the positive lug ties to the main 12V battery, it should be able power pretty much anything the 12V system can handle.
please let us know if you do that and how it works out. Im just looking for the simplest way to tap into power for a sub without throwing errors/draining.
Awesome, thank you!Initial check results:
Here is a couple pics of the power leads for the R1S Aux Air Compressor. The six-terminal connector furthest back is the one of interest. The top side is from vehicle interior and is the source/feed, bottom side goes under the vehicle. Power comes in via the rear-most pink wire (driver's side rear as the connector is installed, visible next to the empty terminal). Activating the air compressor energizes the driver's front pink wire (somewhat hidden in these pics).
I haven't yet confirmed the power routes through passenger-side F11 since the weather sucks today and I didn't want sleet in my face while peering under the dash.
This is "only" a 40A circuit, so I may try powering my 1000W amp through this to see if it holds up to moderate thumping while also carrying a spare 40A fuse and expecting to route separately-fused power back from the aforementioned fuse block tap sometime in the future.
In case someone needs a replacement part
this was an incredibly helpful thread - thank you very much. I just successfully added an Andersen PowerPole port and am powering an amateur radio.I recently installed a 12v outlet and additional USB charging outlets in front of the footwell tray. There are a couple other threads about adding interior 12V but I found a way to do it that requires minimal trim removal, independently fuses whatever you add and doesn't require any wiring mods or crimping. By tapping into the supply lug for one of the main fuse blocks, you can install just about any fused load that the 12V system could handle (amplifiers, radios, chargers and etc.) without going through a bulkhead.
Do this at your own risk. Don't drill into wires. Don't short 12v to ground through your tools or body. This approach taps a primary cable to the 12V battery bus so fuse any load you connect. Be careful!
Parts used:
KEWIG 12V USB Outlet Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket & Dual PD Type - C Ports, USB Cigartte Lighter Socket with ON/Off Switch DIY Kit, Waterproof Car Charger for Car Boat Marine RV ATV,Golf https://a.co/d/bfNVhsm
Nilight 2 Pack Car Cigarette... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082D8WKNW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Optional: M6x1.0 nut; adding a new nut is easier, and probably safer for vehicle electronics, than removing the OEM nut feeding 12V power to the fuse block.
Tools/supplies:
T20 driver
10mm combination wrench
10mm deep socket with at least 3" extension
30mm (~1 1/8") Drill bit
Dielectric grease
Medium threadlocker
Utility knife
Installation Steps
1. Remove trim panels.
a. Clear out the center console tray and remove the rubber liner. b. Remove the "RIVIAN" branded trim panel in front of the tray by pulling out on the lower edge. It has a pair of tabs at the top and fits under the main lower dash trim.
c. Remove the small trim panel above the accelerator pedal. One T20 screw and then pull down on the end closest to the driver seat.
d. Pull back the top of the trim next to the accelerator pedal. One T20 screw on the top edge, then many clips. Just pull it away from the center console. Aim is to access the upper of the two M6 10mm hex head bolts to use as the ground point.
e. Remove U-shaped trim above the passenger footwell. Two T20 screws, then pull down on each side of the edge closest to the seat. Don't pull on the plastic/rubber airbag cover.
2. Install the ground wire ring(s) under the upper M6 bolt adjacent to the accelerator pedal. I applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the threads and ring terminal(s) to reduce corrosion risk. Route the wire(s) toward the outlet location and tighten the bolt.
3. Install positive wire.
a. Optional safety step [UPDATED after discussion with service tech]- To remove 12V power without tripping a fault code, pull the fireman's loop to disconnect the high-voltage battery, then disconnect the negative terminal(s) from the 12V battery(ies). (To reconnect, first replace fireman's loop, then reconnect 12v negative terminal(s).)
b. Locate the 12V supply lug on the passenger fuse panel. Look up from the passenger footwell, just in front of and above the passenger footwell airbag. The supply lug has a black plastic cover that says "Press Here" and is on the driver's side rear corner of the fuse block.
c. Remove the "Press Here" cover by pressing where it says and pulling down on the cover. I reached above the plastic frame around the fuse block so I could push down on the top edge of the cover.
d. If you have a spare M6 nut, apply some dielectric grease to the positive ring terminal(s) and threadlocker to the nut threads, then install the ring terminals stacked on top of the OEM supply lug bolt. If no spare nut, remove the OEM nut, apply grease and threadlocker, add ring terminals and reinstall. Orient wires away from the fuse block.
e. Route positive wires up between the fuse block and surrounding plastic frame and over to the outlet location.
f. Reinstall "Press Here" cover over the 12V lug.
4. Install outlet(s)
a. Drill 30mm (1 1/8") hole(s) for the outlet(s). See the pictures. From the lower edge of the panel, the lower hole on mine is about 3 1/4" up and the upper hole is about 7 1/2". From the passenger-side edge, lower hole is about 1 3/4" over and the upper hole is about 2 1/4" over from the corner in the trim panel. I selected these positions to clear the plastic frame behind the trim panel, leave space for the outlets with terminals behind the panel, clear the console tray, and not crowd the RIVIAN logo.
b. Trim away the ridges on the back of the panel so the bulkhead nuts can fit flush against the panel. See pic.
c. Install the outlet(s), check orientation, and tighten the nuts. I did not use the rectangular panel that came with the 12v outlet.
5. Install modified panel and outlets. If you used the lower position, the wires must route through the rectangular opening just ahead of the outlet panel since the outlet tucks in there. Connect the wires and reinstall the panel.
6. [UPDATED] Install fireman's loop then reconnect 12V battery and test the outlet(s).
7. If all is well, reinstall all trim panels. Mind the positive wires don't get caught in the duct openings above the passenger footwell.
Note: if you pop a fuse on an outlet, you will likely have to pull the U-shaped passenger footwell trim panel to access the fuze holder(s).
I am glad to answer related questions. Be safe and good luck with your projects!
Great post! I've been researching how to potentially swap in a spare 12v if that is needed and I believe this point you make is a good practice and makes sense;I recently installed a 12v outlet and additional USB charging outlets in front of the footwell tray. There are a couple other threads about adding interior 12V but I found a way to do it that requires minimal trim removal, independently fuses whatever you add and doesn't require any wiring mods or crimping. By tapping into the supply lug for one of the main fuse blocks, you can install just about any fused load that the 12V system could handle (amplifiers, radios, chargers and etc.) without going through a bulkhead.
Do this at your own risk. Don't drill into wires. Don't short 12v to ground through your tools or body. This approach taps a primary cable to the 12V battery bus so fuse any load you connect. Be careful!
Parts used:
KEWIG 12V USB Outlet Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket & Dual PD Type - C Ports, USB Cigartte Lighter Socket with ON/Off Switch DIY Kit, Waterproof Car Charger for Car Boat Marine RV ATV,Golf https://a.co/d/bfNVhsm
Nilight 2 Pack Car Cigarette... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082D8WKNW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Optional: M6x1.0 nut; adding a new nut is easier, and probably safer for vehicle electronics, than removing the OEM nut feeding 12V power to the fuse block.
Tools/supplies:
T20 driver
10mm combination wrench
10mm deep socket with at least 3" extension
30mm (~1 1/8") Drill bit
Dielectric grease
Medium threadlocker
Utility knife
Installation Steps
1. Remove trim panels.
a. Clear out the center console tray and remove the rubber liner. b. Remove the "RIVIAN" branded trim panel in front of the tray by pulling out on the lower edge. It has a pair of tabs at the top and fits under the main lower dash trim.
c. Remove the small trim panel above the accelerator pedal. One T20 screw and then pull down on the end closest to the driver seat.
d. Pull back the top of the trim next to the accelerator pedal. One T20 screw on the top edge, then many clips. Just pull it away from the center console. Aim is to access the upper of the two M6 10mm hex head bolts to use as the ground point.
e. Remove U-shaped trim above the passenger footwell. Two T20 screws, then pull down on each side of the edge closest to the seat. Don't pull on the plastic/rubber airbag cover.
2. Install the ground wire ring(s) under the upper M6 bolt adjacent to the accelerator pedal. I applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the threads and ring terminal(s) to reduce corrosion risk. Route the wire(s) toward the outlet location and tighten the bolt.
3. Install positive wire.
a. Optional safety step [UPDATED after discussion with service tech]- To remove 12V power without tripping a fault code, pull the fireman's loop to disconnect the high-voltage battery, then disconnect the negative terminal(s) from the 12V battery(ies). (To reconnect, first replace fireman's loop, then reconnect 12v negative terminal(s).)
b. Locate the 12V supply lug on the passenger fuse panel. Look up from the passenger footwell, just in front of and above the passenger footwell airbag. The supply lug has a black plastic cover that says "Press Here" and is on the driver's side rear corner of the fuse block.
c. Remove the "Press Here" cover by pressing where it says and pulling down on the cover. I reached above the plastic frame around the fuse block so I could push down on the top edge of the cover.
d. If you have a spare M6 nut, apply some dielectric grease to the positive ring terminal(s) and threadlocker to the nut threads, then install the ring terminals stacked on top of the OEM supply lug bolt. If no spare nut, remove the OEM nut, apply grease and threadlocker, add ring terminals and reinstall. Orient wires away from the fuse block.
e. Route positive wires up between the fuse block and surrounding plastic frame and over to the outlet location.
f. Reinstall "Press Here" cover over the 12V lug.
4. Install outlet(s)
a. Drill 30mm (1 1/8") hole(s) for the outlet(s). See the pictures. From the lower edge of the panel, the lower hole on mine is about 3 1/4" up and the upper hole is about 7 1/2". From the passenger-side edge, lower hole is about 1 3/4" over and the upper hole is about 2 1/4" over from the corner in the trim panel. I selected these positions to clear the plastic frame behind the trim panel, leave space for the outlets with terminals behind the panel, clear the console tray, and not crowd the RIVIAN logo.
b. Trim away the ridges on the back of the panel so the bulkhead nuts can fit flush against the panel. See pic.
c. Install the outlet(s), check orientation, and tighten the nuts. I did not use the rectangular panel that came with the 12v outlet.
5. Install modified panel and outlets. If you used the lower position, the wires must route through the rectangular opening just ahead of the outlet panel since the outlet tucks in there. Connect the wires and reinstall the panel.
6. [UPDATED] Install fireman's loop then reconnect 12V battery and test the outlet(s).
7. If all is well, reinstall all trim panels. Mind the positive wires don't get caught in the duct openings above the passenger footwell.
Note: if you pop a fuse on an outlet, you will likely have to pull the U-shaped passenger footwell trim panel to access the fuze holder(s).
I am glad to answer related questions. Be safe and good luck with your projects!
