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Riptonite

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I recently installed a 12v outlet and additional USB charging outlets in front of the footwell tray. There are a couple other threads about adding interior 12V but I found a way to do it that requires minimal trim removal, independently fuses whatever you add and doesn't require any wiring mods or crimping. By tapping into the supply lug for one of the main fuse blocks, you can install just about any fused load that the 12V system could handle (amplifiers, radios, chargers and etc.) without going through a bulkhead.

Do this at your own risk. Don't drill into wires. Don't short 12v to ground through your tools or body. This approach taps a primary cable to the 12V battery bus so fuse any load you connect. Be careful!

Parts used:
KEWIG 12V USB Outlet Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket & Dual PD Type - C Ports, USB Cigartte Lighter Socket with ON/Off Switch DIY Kit, Waterproof Car Charger for Car Boat Marine RV ATV,Golf https://a.co/d/bfNVhsm
Nilight 2 Pack Car Cigarette... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082D8WKNW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Optional: M6x1.0 nut; adding a new nut is easier, and probably safer for vehicle electronics, than removing the OEM nut feeding 12V power to the fuse block.

Tools/supplies:
T20 driver
10mm combination wrench
10mm deep socket with at least 3" extension
30mm (~1 1/8") Drill bit
Dielectric grease
Medium threadlocker
Utility knife

Installation Steps
1. Remove trim panels.
a. Clear out the center console tray and remove the rubber liner. b. Remove the "RIVIAN" branded trim panel in front of the tray by pulling out on the lower edge. It has a pair of tabs at the top and fits under the main lower dash trim.
c. Remove the small trim panel above the accelerator pedal. One T20 screw and then pull down on the end closest to the driver seat.
d. Pull back the top of the trim next to the accelerator pedal. One T20 screw on the top edge, then many clips. Just pull it away from the center console. Aim is to access the upper of the two M6 10mm hex head bolts to use as the ground point.
e. Remove U-shaped trim above the passenger footwell. Two T20 screws, then pull down on each side of the edge closest to the seat. Don't pull on the plastic/rubber airbag cover.

2. Install the ground wire ring(s) under the upper M6 bolt adjacent to the accelerator pedal. I applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the threads and ring terminal(s) to reduce corrosion risk. Route the wire(s) toward the outlet location and tighten the bolt.

3. Install positive wire.
a. Optional safety step [UPDATED after discussion with service tech]- To remove 12V power without tripping a fault code, pull the fireman's loop to disconnect the high-voltage battery, then disconnect the negative terminal(s) from the 12V battery(ies). (To reconnect, first replace fireman's loop, then reconnect 12v negative terminal(s).)
b. Locate the 12V supply lug on the passenger fuse panel. Look up from the passenger footwell, just in front of and above the passenger footwell airbag. The supply lug has a black plastic cover that says "Press Here" and is on the driver's side rear corner of the fuse block.
c. Remove the "Press Here" cover by pressing where it says and pulling down on the cover. I reached above the plastic frame around the fuse block so I could push down on the top edge of the cover.
d. If you have a spare M6 nut, apply some dielectric grease to the positive ring terminal(s) and threadlocker to the nut threads, then install the ring terminals stacked on top of the OEM supply lug bolt. If no spare nut, remove the OEM nut, apply grease and threadlocker, add ring terminals and reinstall. Orient wires away from the fuse block.
e. Route positive wires up between the fuse block and surrounding plastic frame and over to the outlet location.
f. Reinstall "Press Here" cover over the 12V lug.

4. Install outlet(s)
a. Drill 30mm (1 1/8") hole(s) for the outlet(s). See the pictures. From the lower edge of the panel, the lower hole on mine is about 3 1/4" up and the upper hole is about 7 1/2". From the passenger-side edge, lower hole is about 1 3/4" over and the upper hole is about 2 1/4" over from the corner in the trim panel. I selected these positions to clear the plastic frame behind the trim panel, leave space for the outlets with terminals behind the panel, clear the console tray, and not crowd the RIVIAN logo.
b. Trim away the ridges on the back of the panel so the bulkhead nuts can fit flush against the panel. See pic.
c. Install the outlet(s), check orientation, and tighten the nuts. I did not use the rectangular panel that came with the 12v outlet.

5. Install modified panel and outlets. If you used the lower position, the wires must route through the rectangular opening just ahead of the outlet panel since the outlet tucks in there. Connect the wires and reinstall the panel.

6. [UPDATED] Install fireman's loop then reconnect 12V battery and test the outlet(s).

7. If all is well, reinstall all trim panels. Mind the positive wires don't get caught in the duct openings above the passenger footwell.

Note: if you pop a fuse on an outlet, you will likely have to pull the U-shaped passenger footwell trim panel to access the fuze holder(s).

I am glad to answer related questions. Be safe and good luck with your projects!

Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_154138


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_153125


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_150852


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_150208


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_150239


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_151008


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240320_124440


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240320_124323


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240320_124421


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240320_124344


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240320_124400


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_153842


Rivian R1T R1S DIY: How To Add Interior 12v/USB-C (and interior high-current 12v loads) 20240318_153924
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sub

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Nice Job!

Based on what you saw when you took your vehicle apart, would it have been much harder to install it where the now discontinued OEM 12v outlet was located?
 
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Riptonite

Riptonite

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Where is that? I didn't even find pictures of it! I did look for any connectors or wiring that may feed the stock 12V outlet but didn't see anything under either side of the dash or on the center console.

The positive leads that came with the outlets are near their full length as I installed them. I don't think they would reach the driver side of the same panel. Also, there is less clearance towards the middle and top of the panel, so I'm not sure the outlets + leads would clear. If you try/check, please report what you find!
 
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Riptonite

Riptonite

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Just above where you installed:
1710957288145-1j.png
I'm not sure - I haven't yet pulled the dash lower panel. The outlet leads that come with each socket should reach that location from the connection points I used.
 
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Beautiful job. I am really impressed. There are some great technicalities on these Forums.

Brian
 

tragicmonkey049

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Thank you for mentioning the fireman's loop as a way to de-power the panel! That will give me a little more confidence to proceed with my mod.
 

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Awesome job!!
Thank you for the great details and photos!
The photos seem to show there may be enough space behind to install a single 12v outlet in the center of that panel slightly above the recessed (Rivian) portion of the panel. Would you agree?

On a somewhat related topic, would anyone know if it is possible to purchase replacement parts (e.g. the center Rivian trim panel) in case I mess up, or want to return it to factory condition?
 

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Awesome job!!
Thank you for the great details and photos!
The photos seem to show there may be enough space behind to install a single 12v outlet in the center of that panel slightly above the recessed (Rivian) portion of the panel. Would you agree?

On a somewhat related topic, would anyone know if it is possible to purchase replacement parts (e.g. the center Rivian trim panel) in case I mess up, or want to return it to factory condition?
Along that line of questioning... I wonder if it would be possible to buy the parts from before they removed the 12v outlet and simply add a factory one back in.
 
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Riptonite

Riptonite

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Along that line of questioning... I wonder if it would be possible to buy the parts from before they removed the 12v outlet and simply add a factory one back in.
I will ask the local service rep when he's here this afternoon. I previously gathered that you can order parts from the service centers and pick them up or have them delivered as part of a remote service appointment.
 
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Riptonite

Riptonite

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Couple updates after talking with service rep today:
1. SAFETY STEP UPDATE: removing the fireman's loop only disconnects the high voltage battery! To de-energize the fuse block, pull the fireman's loop AND THEN disconnect the negative terminal(s) on the one or two 12V batteries. To avoid a fault code, connect it in the same order: install fireman's loop, then negative terminals. I updated the main post with this info.
2. Yes, you can order parts from the service centers. From previous discussions with service via phone, it is much easier if you already have the part number since they aren't set up as a parts counter.
 

Chewy734

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Couple updates after talking with service rep today:
1. SAFETY STEP UPDATE: removing the fireman's loop only disconnects the high voltage battery! To de-energize the fuse block, pull the fireman's loop AND THEN disconnect the negative terminal(s) on the one or two 12V batteries. To avoid a fault code, connect it in the same order: install fireman's loop, then negative terminals. I updated the main post with this info.
2. Yes, you can order parts from the service centers. From previous discussions with service via phone, it is much easier if you already have the part number since they aren't set up as a parts counter.
Also, if you don’t know the part #, you can always take a pic of it and submit a service ticket. When someone contacts you, just tell them you need to pick up the part and they’ll forward the request to your local SC.
 
 




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