Installing EV Sportline Running Boards this weekend, what do I need?

[shashmi324]

Hey all,

I’m installing my running boards from EV Sportline this weekend. Given that my car is a lease and I am unsure if I will buyout (depends on how much issues the car truck gives me), I will be taking off the plastic panels and not making any cuts.

Given that info, my question is what tools would I need for the job to make my life easiest. Temps are in the 20s this weekend so I am hoping to get this done quick.

I saw in other posts recommendations for a longer breaker bar.. also a TP55 bit, is that really all? I don’t have much in terms of tools but am willing to purchase.

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[240vPlug]

A breaker bar will work, but best to have an impact. @EV Sportline has instructions on their website on how to install them.

https://evsportline.com/blogs/news/rmaxx-running-board-install-instructions

 

[Christopher]

The Torx Plus bit is provided, and it fits into a socket (I'm not sure what size but it's a standard size from any socket wrench set). I used a standard 1/2 drive socket wrench. Installed the rock sliders on both my R1S and R1T. No breaker bar necessary. Just use your muscles. Once I backed out the bolt with the socket wrench I switched the bit over to an impact gun to speed up the process.

The directions also called for some silicone sealant and thread locker, but that was for the rock sliders. I think the running boards don't need that.

 

[citizen]

If you get a really long flathead screwdriver, it'll make your life easy in terms of popping off the panels. I had this on hand and I think it took all of 5 minutes each side to pop the panels off once you get the bolts off. Just jammed it into the clip areas and twisted to pop each connection point off: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQ62Q55/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[WhidbeyIsland]

I am receiving my EVSportline running boards today, so this is helpful to me as well... thanks for the comments.

 

[R1 EVY]

The Torx Plus bit is provided, and it fits into a socket (I'm not sure what size but it's a standard size from any socket wrench set). I used a standard 1/2 drive socket wrench. Installed the rock sliders on both my R1S and R1T. No breaker bar necessary. Just use your muscles. Once I backed out the bolt with the socket wrench I switched the bit over to an impact gun to speed up the process.

The directions also called for some silicone sealant and thread locker, but that was for the rock sliders. I think the running boards don't need that.

Do you have pics of the R1S install? Thinking about it but wondering about real world experience putting them on.

-Darren

 

[madgrey]

Not having to cut the panels saves having to source the 4" hole-saw or some other method to cut slots.

Bonus points if you have a torque wrench to use to tighten the TP55s so you can hit the 80 lb ft (or whatever the latest spec is...)

 

[brandtr1t]

I installed these last weekend (the running boards).

All went well and I left the plastic bottom panels off, but plan to reinstall them after cutting slots with a Dremel.

One word of caution - if you use a breaker bar to loosen the chassis bolts, make sure you are turning the right direction. It is totally possible to strip the chassis bolts out with a breaker bar. I almost did it by turning the wrong direction. Yes I am a moron, but maybe this will save someone.

 

[Voronbrg]

are the jack points still useable?

 

[mkg3]

are the jack points still useable?

In short, jack points are usable without any issue.

The front bracket installation location is not near the front jack point.

The rear most bracket installation location is near the rear jack point and if you are cutting the 4" circle to access the bracket mounting. bolts, make sure you first move the rear jack point cover out of the way first.

If you are removing the panel, then its a non-issue.

 

[68wske]

I used a 6 point 11mm socket for the TP55 they sent

 

[Voronbrg]

In short, jack points are usable without any issue.

The front bracket installation location is not near the front jack point.

The rear most bracket installation location is near the rear jack point and if you are cutting the 4" circle to access the bracket mounting. bolts, make sure you first move the rear jack point cover out of the way first.

If you are removing the panel, then its a non-issue.

I plan on cutting the slots.
What you're saying is the rears, I'll have to permantly keep the rear jack point covers off?

 

[mkg3]

I plan on cutting the slots.
What you're saying is the rears, I'll have to permantly keep the rear jack point covers off?

In my case, the rear jack cover is still there and closed. There is a lip and a catch to secure the cap on the underbody panel. When cutting into that section, just make sure you don't cut that part out.

If you use the pattern provided by the EASportsline, you should be ok. but make sure you check before committing to cutting the hole.

 

[itripn]

Do you have pics of the R1S install? Thinking about it but wondering about real world experience putting them on.

-Darren

installed mine a few months ago and love them. More importantly my 5'’3” wife loves them

 

[Polar]

Compass Yellow for Life! Nice stealth wrap mate.

As far as install @R1 EVY - easy enough for my 12 year old to help out.

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