Interior passenger-side fuse box

[Granolander]

Standard mini fuse - thank goodness!

Here’s a horrible shot - you can see the fuse tap in spot 47 with the power wire leading up and over the steering shaft.

Below is the buck converter that feeds the two USBc ports secured under the dash across from the fuse block.

Are both fuses in your dual-fuse tap connector of the same amperage?
I have a situation in which my accessory (dashcam) comes with a 15amp fuse and the original to tap (F48) is 10amps.

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[Granolander]

No worries about that - you're tapping in before the circuit fuse for those other accessories, and none of that stuff should come close to eating 10 amps anyway. There's probably more like 50 amps in the box that supplies that 10 amp, if not more, and you're branching off of contacts rated at 40+ amps - so if you run the tap correctly, you shouldn't be anywhere near the circuit limits.

This may be related to my situation. My accessory (dashcam) comes with a 15amp fuse. I’m concerned about tapping F48 as its fuse is a 10amp. Even if the 15amp fuse is connected after the 10amp; wouldn’t this overload and pop the 10amp?

 

[evforthewin]

To hopefully abate some of the questions I know will likely come from posting this information:

• I do not yet know what all of the signal names are for - there's still a lot here to learn and discover, but please don't hammer me with questions about signal names
• I have not verified all of this information yet, but the five or so fuses I have examined on the passenger's side seem to match the data provided above 100%
• Rivian did not want you to have this information and you should take every opportunity to crap on Rivian for not providing this data in the first place, like every other car manufacturer on the planet.

I can’t thank you enough for this post. This was just enough information to be able to fix an issue that the Rivian support structure was unable and or unwilling to troubleshoot without having me drop the vehicle off. I live in the Dallas TX area and the service center here is not good and seemingly overwhelmed. They could not get me a mobile service appointment and the soonest drop off was 10/4.

The issue I ran into followed a simple car wash in my driveway on 8/31. The rear wiper, lift gate and parking sensors stopped working. Logic and common sense led me to believe a sensor or other electrical part got wet and either shorted a fuse or went into a fault that would not clear even with a hard reset. I went the route of caution and reached out to service, as noted above.

Initially, I was going to wait for an appointment in Dallas but a day later decided to try another service center and opted for Oklahoma City. They had an appointment available for next week, 9/12. They were more proactive and definitely seem to be a better operation but again the inexperience of those we have to go through to report and discuss service issues was apparent. I provided numerous videos and copious details. Having been in very technical roles throughout my career, including technical support roles early in my career, I was convinced this was a minor issue related to a fuse, circuit fault or possible software. Ironically, an OTA update was available yesterday and I opted to install. It failed twice. Notified support/service but they still couldn’t put the details together. For me, it was even more clear, faults were blocking the OTA.

About an hour ago I decided i was going to pull fuses and check them out. While there is not one specifically for the lift gate on your diagram, there are some that seemed logical would be part of the same circuit. Checked several, they were all good. However, by pulling the fuse and breaking the circuit, all current to any sensors drained and the fault (s) cleared. Happy to say everything is working again. This post made that possible.

 

[jwardell]

Has any ever found an add-a-fuse for the larger MXC fuses? I still would prefer to tap one of the accessory socket fuses over the mini ones.

 

[tragicmonkey049]

THANKS ALL!

I have working phone charging on my dash now. Final step is to tuck away the wires.

THANK YOU for this thread, for the fuse panel diagram, and for the photos! I just installed my buck converter for dash power using the parts posted by @Polar. I found an M8 bolt near the dead pedal with about 1.5cm of exposed threads. I used a ring terminal, star washer and second nut on that for my ground. Fuse tap at slot 47. Tucked away the wiring after pulling down the panel as nicely described by @Riptonite. SO NICE to have a magnetic mount up on the dash that charges with almost no visible wiring, and everything is reversible back to stock vehicle. Y'all are the best!

 

[jerseyff]

Are both fuses in your dual-fuse tap connector of the same amperage?
I have a situation in which my accessory (dashcam) comes with a 15amp fuse and the original to tap (F48) is 10amps.

This may be related to my situation. My accessory (dashcam) comes with a 15amp fuse. I’m concerned about tapping F48 as its fuse is a 10amp. Even if the 15amp fuse is connected after the 10amp; wouldn’t this overload and pop the 10amp?

I'm here with the same question, my dash cam hardwire kit came with 15A fuses but everyone uses 10A fuse slots for their taps on the driver side it seems.

 

[Sonartech]

Ideally, you'd decrease the fuse rating as you get closer towards the accessory. The hardware kit wasn't right-sized for the dashcam - it's just a generic 15 Amp solution "for most things". If they actually cared about the safety offered by that inline fuse, they would have determined what the highest possible load from that dashcam actually is (rated current), added ~20%, then installed a fuse with that rating - probably just landing on a 2A or 3A fuse. So, yes, if you'd like to change that 15A fuse out for something closer to the actual need, please do. The fuse tap is designed to tap power from the fuse box before that 10Amp fuse at F48, so the 15 Amp fuse in your Dashcam does still offer some protection - it's just wayyyyy oversized for the Dashcam application.

In your home, you (probably) have a 200A service feed to the breaker box that gets split into two 115V legs, then there are breakers on each branch that runs to rooms, appliances, outlets, etc. Those smaller breakers are "right sized" based on the wire capacity in the wall, not the actual load(s) attached to the outlets on that circuit. Then the appliances themselves have internal fuses that more closely match the maximum possible load plus a percentage of overage to keep the fuse from unnecessarily popping every time you start your vacuum cleaner. The same applies to the appliances in your car: 100A (?) feeding the fuse box --> F48 Location --> ~2A (24W Dashcam). Again, F48's 10A fuse in not in the circuit for your Dashcam - you're tapping power from the F48 location, but not through the F48 10A fuse itself - you're tapping power in the input of the 10A fuse, not the output.

So, right-size your Dashcam's inline fuse if you want to do it right, but if you don't, you'll have to hit ~200W before that 15A fuse opens. Yikes!

 

[jerseyff]

Ideally, you'd decrease the fuse rating as you get closer towards the accessory. The hardware kit wasn't right-sized for the dashcam - it's just a generic 15 Amp solution "for most things". If they actually cared about the safety offered by that inline fuse, they would have determined what the highest possible load from that dashcam actually is (rated current), added ~20%, then installed a fuse with that rating - probably just landing on a 2A or 3A fuse. So, yes, if you'd like to change that 15A fuse out for something closer to the actual need, please do. The fuse tap is designed to tap power from the fuse box before that 10Amp fuse at F48, so the 15 Amp fuse in your Dashcam does still offer some protection - it's just wayyyyy oversized for the Dashcam application.

In your home, you (probably) have a 200A service feed to the breaker box that gets split into two 115V legs, then there are breakers on each branch that runs to rooms, appliances, outlets, etc. Those smaller breakers are "right sized" based on the wire capacity in the wall, not the actual load(s) attached to the outlets on that circuit. Then the appliances themselves have internal fuses that more closely match the maximum possible load plus a percentage of overage to keep the fuse from unnecessarily popping every time you start your vacuum cleaner. The same applies to the appliances in your car: 100A (?) feeding the fuse box --> F48 Location --> ~2A (24W Dashcam). Again, F48's 10A fuse in not in the circuit for your Dashcam - you're tapping power from the F48 location, but not through the F48 10A fuse itself - you're tapping power in the input of the 10A fuse, not the output.

So, right-size your Dashcam's inline fuse if you want to do it right, but if you don't, you'll have to hit ~200W before that 15A fuse opens. Yikes!

Thanks for the thorough explanation, I will definitely change out the 15A fuse that was included. I will see if they actually list any power specs on the hardware or packaging.

 

[Sonartech]

Who makes your Dashcam? Is there an FCCID listed on the thing?

 

[jerseyff]

Who makes your Dashcam? Is there an FCCID listed on the thing?

...and they include a 15A fuse

 

[Sonartech]

Good lord! Someone get that man a 5A fuse!

 

[jerseyff]

Good lord! Someone get that man a 5A fuse!

Yessir!

 

[jerseyff]

Is there an ACC vs constant power fuse list that I'm missing on the forum somewhere? Their support recommended I hit two fuses, both of which are 50A, which their hardwire tap kit doesnt even support the physical size of They were not the right source to ask...

I'm looking for one of each (need one ACC and one constant) in the 5, 10 or 15A fuse (mini) size. Passenger or driver side.

 

[AAA]

Has anyone found a source other than Rivian for MTA fuses? I blew my trailer light 25A fuse. Crazy that these aren’t industry standard .

 

[ivinio21]

After digging through what feels like every comment ever written, I’m now completely lost on which fuse I’m supposed to tap for my Ventrue camera’s always-on power. Is it 46, 47 or 48? At this point I feel like I’m picking lottery numbers. I’m using the original parking-mode wire kit, if that helps the universe guide me.

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