Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T

[Professor]

I don’t see why not. Although, converting from AC back to DC is less efficient.

Thank you for the insight. Based on your posting information I have ordered the JL Subwoofer. It shipped from Florida last week. I am having a shop install it, as I am completely clueless on this kind of thing. I just know that I have been disappointed with the Rivian system and hope to upgrade it. I formerly drove a Tesla Model Y and was extremely pleased with the sound. I will keep working on my truck until I can at lease equal that sound. Any advise would be most appreciated. I loved your post about the subwoofer you installed!!!

Sponsored

 

[Niknax0729]

I wanted to add a little more bass in my R1T but really didn't want to modify anything that I couldn't return to stock. On other cars and trucks I've had, I am always down to cut drill into parts since you can easily buy replacement parts online. But that's not the case for Rivian! I landed on this 10" JL powered sub from Crutchfield with their 8awg power kit. I also got the JL remote and RCA to speaker wire adapter.

First off, big shoutout to @Mohelp for his install thread here! He has some great info on power connection, wire routing, and OE plastic removal!

I poked the power wire though one of the free tentacles on this gromet and connected the wire to the free screw terminal on this power block (circled in green) with a M6 bolt. I attached the main fuse and ring terminal to the end of the wire too, just not in the pic.

I ran the wire behind the passenger side carpet and under all the side plastics until it entered under the rear seats. I already removed the OE sub and cargo tray using the thread I linked above.

I attached the ground wire to the OE bolt on the floor. For the ignition source, I found the thicker pink wire in this main harness that turns on when you walk near the truck or open the doors. It is quick to turn off when you leave the truck so it's fine with me. It works the same as a hardwired radar detector using the power behind the mirror.

The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other. I also had to extend them a little with the extra ignition wire from the power kit. Then I reinstalled the OE sub and plugged in the power, ignition, and RCA wires to the JL sub. It powered right up!

To hold the sub in place, I cut a big piece of polyethylene foam I had around and wedged it next to the sub. I also zip tied a tool bag in the empty space so I can still use the storage space without scratching the metal floor.

The last step was to install the remote knob. I wasn't sure if I needed this at first but it makes a huge difference for adjusting the sub while driving based on what you are listening too. I just ran the wire under the floor matt and into the center console storage. I then drilled a hole in the aftermarket organizer to mount the knob. Now I have a stealth way of making adjustments!

After fine tuning the settings to sound the best I laned on this. I'm not sure if it is because I mixed up the positive and negative when connecting the RCA to speaker wire adapter but it sounds a lot better with the polarity set to 180deg.

This sub makes a HUGE difference in the overall experience for all music I listen too in my R1T! With the bass knob set halfway all of the time, it adds just a little more bass over the OE sub with a clean sound, not obnoxious at all. If I turn the knob up to 3/4 then the hits really hard and fills the cabin nicely. It's nothing too crazy but IMO this is exactly what the Meridian system was missing.

How did you get access to the center consol to attach sub volume controler?!

 

[Revin]

Thank you for the insight. Based on your posting information I have ordered the JL Subwoofer. It shipped from Florida last week. I am having a shop install it, as I am completely clueless on this kind of thing. I just know that I have been disappointed with the Rivian system and hope to upgrade it. I formerly drove a Tesla Model Y and was extremely pleased with the sound. I will keep working on my truck until I can at lease equal that sound. Any advise would be most appreciated. I loved your post about the subwoofer you installed!!!

No problem! I’m sure a dedicated audio shop will do a good job

 

[Revin]

How did you get access to the center consol to attach sub volume controler?!

I explained it a few pages back here

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/simple-10-jl-subwoofer-install-in-r1t.26036/post-634397

 

[JonBoyR1T]

@Revin can you clarify what you did for remote turn on? What option on the amp did you select for that? Signal, DC or Remote?

 

[Professor]

@Revin can you clarify what you did for remote turn on? What option on the amp did you select for that? Signal, DC or Remote?

A hi-fi shop installed it. I just checked it, and he has the switch in the "signal" position.

 

[Revin]

@Revin can you clarify what you did for remote turn on? What option on the amp did you select for that? Signal, DC or Remote?

I have it set to remote

 

[JonBoyR1T]

Thanks for this thread @Revin. I completed my install over the weekend. Rather than starting my own thread, I figured I would post my experience here hoping others will benefit.

I love JL Audio but didn't want to spend close to $1000 for the OP's setup so I went with the Kicker 51PTRTP10. The point here being you now have another option and budget level available based on community experience.

Complete list of links below:
Kicker 51PTRTP10
Boss Audio Wire Kit
RCA to Speaker Wire Adapter
Wire Taps

A couple of tips for those that decide to install a sub in the R1T.
1. I used those grommet hole poke throughs in the firewall. I used a long metal skewer and taped the power line to it and then used coconut oil cooking spray as a lubricant. It made the install very easy. I struggled for an hour before that trying to get it through the firewall. I went in the direction of the frunk into the cabin.
2. Use the fuse that comes with the wire kit and keep it close to the battery. I didnt have an empty block on the battery terminal so I used an existing block. I removed the nut and made sure I didnt disturb what was already there.
3. When removing the trim in the back seat tub area, remove the black plastic pieces that are right below the back rests of the back seats before you try to remove the thin flat horizontal pieces that sit on the tub. They are held in with clips and are in 2 pieces.
4. Make sure you are using a good set of automotive pry tools. All the trim is held in with metal clips but you need to pry carefully and find where the clips are so you know where to pry.
5. Make sure before you power up the sub for the first time that you turn the x-over frequency down to the lower range. You don't want the sub to be picking up vocals. Also lower the gain to very low until you get it online and can adjust. Lowers the chance of damage.
6. I used the black and red wires coming off the OE sub to get signal to the Kicker. I used a wire tap here along with the RCA to speaker wire adapter.
7. I used the large pink wire from the bundle that is next to the rear passenger seat hinge point. You need to peel away the OE tape carefull and expose the pink wire. I used a wire tap here.

I am still adjusting the gain and x-over levels but the difference is immediate. Like others have said you arent going to be shattering windows or winning competitions but what it does do is make the system very balanced and complete. I can now lower the bass on the EQ on the screen and let the sub do the work. I also left the OE sub installed since I need it for signal to the Kicker. Happy to answer questions and thanks again to @Revin for being our inspiration here.

 

[Revin]

@JonBoyR1T Glad to hear you had a good install!

 

[mkhuffman]

Thanks for this thread @Revin. I completed my install over the weekend. Rather than starting my own thread, I figured I would post my experience here hoping others will benefit.

I love JL Audio but didn't want to spend close to $1000 for the OP's setup so I went with the Kicker 51PTRTP10. The point here being you now have another option and budget level available based on community experience.

Complete list of links below:
Kicker 51PTRTP10
Boss Audio Wire Kit
RCA to Speaker Wire Adapter
Wire Taps

A couple of tips for those that decide to install a sub in the R1T.
1. I used those grommet hole poke throughs in the firewall. I used a long metal skewer and taped the power line to it and then used coconut oil cooking spray as a lubricant. It made the install very easy. I struggled for an hour before that trying to get it through the firewall. I went in the direction of the frunk into the cabin.
2. Use the fuse that comes with the wire kit and keep it close to the battery. I didnt have an empty block on the battery terminal so I used an existing block. I removed the nut and made sure I didnt disturb what was already there.
3. When removing the trim in the back seat tub area, remove the black plastic pieces that are right below the back rests of the back seats before you try to remove the thin flat horizontal pieces that sit on the tub. They are held in with clips and are in 2 pieces.
4. Make sure you are using a good set of automotive pry tools. All the trim is held in with metal clips but you need to pry carefully and find where the clips are so you know where to pry.
5. Make sure before you power up the sub for the first time that you turn the x-over frequency down to the lower range. You don't want the sub to be picking up vocals. Also lower the gain to very low until you get it online and can adjust. Lowers the chance of damage.
6. I used the black and red wires coming off the OE sub to get signal to the Kicker. I used a wire tap here along with the RCA to speaker wire adapter.
7. I used the large pink wire from the bundle that is next to the rear passenger seat hinge point. You need to peel away the OE tape carefull and expose the pink wire. I used a wire tap here.

I am still adjusting the gain and x-over levels but the difference is immediate. Like others have said you arent going to be shattering windows or winning competitions but what it does do is make the system very balanced and complete. I can now lower the bass on the EQ on the screen and let the sub do the work. I also left the OE sub installed since I need it for signal to the Kicker. Happy to answer questions and thanks again to @Revin for being our inspiration here.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Would it be possible to post a few pictures of the final install?

Sponsored