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JamboF4

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I did. I think it will fit in the space but it will touch the bottom of the seat
You think touch, like put lots of pressure on the speaker grill, or just incidental? From your experience…think it’s necessary to try the 12, or is the 10 more than adequate? Thanks,for your quick response. Jim
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You think touch, like put lots of pressure on the speaker grill, or just incidental? From your experience…think it’s necessary to try the 12, or is the 10 more than adequate? Thanks,for your quick response. Jim
It will definitely put pressure on it. The speaker has a grill so it will be fine but I was more worried about vibration. The 10” is more than enough. I usually only turn it up to 50%. It feels 10x more powerful than the stock sub.
 

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It will definitely put pressure on it. The speaker has a grill so it will be fine but I was more worried about vibration. The 10” is more than enough. I usually only turn it up to 50%. It feels 10x more powerful than the stock sub.
Ah, ok great. Thanks for your input. I spent a lot of time in IASCA car stereo competition in the ‘90s, so I can appreciate the improvement, with even just a 10. Does the amp put much of a load on the 12V battery? I’ve considered a stand-alone Li-On battery with a charge plug in the tunnel.
 
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Revin

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Ah, ok great. Thanks for your input. I spent a lot of time in IASCA car stereo competition in the ‘90s, so I can appreciate the improvement, with even just a 10. Does the amp put much of a load on the 12V battery? I’ve considered a stand-alone Li-On battery with a charge plug in the tunnel.
No problem! I have no issues with my battery. From what I understand, the 12v battery will always be charged by the HV battery when needed.
 

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No problem! I have no issues with my battery. From what I understand, the 12v battery will always be charged by the HV battery when needed.
Oh yeah..true. Well, let us know if anything changes. Great job
 

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@Revin, can you share how you got your remote knob wire into the center console? I am not seeing any seams or gaps in the bottom to attempt to fish it through.
 
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@Revin, can you share how you got your remote knob wire into the center console? I am not seeing any seams or gaps in the bottom to attempt to fish it through.
I ran the wire like this. Along the door plastics, under the floor mat, up the exterior of the center console (hidden by the seat), under the center console cover, and below the organizer. It’s not perfect but it was easy to run and it’s surprisingly hard to see any wire.

Rivian R1T R1S Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T IMG_2563


If you open the center console door halfway, you can work the wire under it. Then tuck it to the back, here.

Rivian R1T R1S Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T IMG_2569
 

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It will definitely put pressure on it. The speaker has a grill so it will be fine but I was more worried about vibration. The 10” is more than enough. I usually only turn it up to 50%. It feels 10x more powerful than the stock sub.
I see what you mean now. The 12 is a full inch “taller” flat on its back, than the 10 is. Glad I asked you.
 

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On gen 2?

I haven't personally dug into the inverter on my truck, but there's an old thread around here (pre-gen 2) where someone did, and there was no HV cable going to their inverter. Maybe this is something they addressed for gen 2? On my gen 1 truck, using the 120V absolutely destroys my battery at idle (presumably because of the double conversion).

Trust me on this one!!!

Rivian R1T R1S Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T DC AC inverter
 

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IMG_2569.jpg







Where did you get that tray in your center console? I've been looking for that. TIA.
 

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Thanks for the guide @Revin! Quick question on whether you wired to low-level or high-level inputs on the JL powered sub. In your post you mentioned...

"The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other"

It looked like you wired the OE sub wires to the low level input of the JL sub. Wouldn't those two lines be considered high level input as they are already amplified for the OE sub?

Appreciate any guidance, thanks!
I switched my connection to the high level input and I think it sounds a little cleaner. The volume range did drop a lot. So not really sure which input to recommend since they both work fine.
 

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@Revin I followed your write up, read it multiple times, then went through the other install thread that you followed as well. I purchased all the same components as you and did the install yesterday.

It took about 3 hours total work time (5 hours including hunting for my wire strippers, fish wire, and running to the local HW store for wire taps). Once I was done and connected everything up to the sub/amp it just came on and was working perfectly.

The install came out very clean and the sound... The sound is amazing!

It delivered on everything that I wanted out of this setup.

1. I love low end frequencies and I felt the stock system couldn't deliver that at volumes that were tolerable for me. The JL sub allowed me to flatten my EQ settings, allowing the other speakers the freedom to push the higher frequencies cleanly without being muddied by the bass being cranked up.

2. It allows me to feel the music. I really missed this from my Model S. I felt the soundstage in the Rivian is good but not as good as the Tesla. The sub is giving me the headroom to adjust the soundstage without sacrificing the low end.

A couple of things that were a bit different on my install:
1. I had a couple of large foam circles (~12" circles) from a door speaker install on my other car that I had laying around. I attached them using their adhesive backing to the bottom of the sub enclosure and that is what it's sitting on now. This has isolated the box from the bottom of the cargo area and REALLY cleaned up the sound and reduced vibrations from the area.
2. The power block on the 12V battery in my truck didn't have an open bolt with a mounting block. So I just added the power line to an existing bolt.

So, thank you Riven for the help and inspiration to make my truck perfect for me.

Rivian R1T R1S Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T IMG20241117104844


Rivian R1T R1S Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T IMG20241117110806
 
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Revin

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@Revin I followed your write up, read it multiple times, then went through the other install thread that you followed as well. I purchased all the same components as you and did the install yesterday.

It took about 3 hours total work time (5 hours including hunting for my wire strippers, fish wire, and running to the local HW store for wire taps). Once I was done and connected everything up to the sub/amp it just came on and was working perfectly.

The install came out very clean and the sound... The sound is amazing!

It delivered on everything that I wanted out of this setup.

1. I love low end frequencies and I felt the stock system couldn't deliver that at volumes that were tolerable for me. The JL sub allowed me to flatten my EQ settings, allowing the other speakers the freedom to push the higher frequencies cleanly without being muddied by the bass being cranked up.

2. It allows me to feel the music. I really missed this from my Model S. I felt the soundstage in the Rivian is good but not as good as the Tesla. The sub is giving me the headroom to adjust the soundstage without sacrificing the low end.

A couple of things that were a bit different on my install:
1. I had a couple of large foam circles (~12" circles) from a door speaker install on my other car that I had laying around. I attached them using their adhesive backing to the bottom of the sub enclosure and that is what it's sitting on now. This has isolated the box from the bottom of the cargo area and REALLY cleaned up the sound and reduced vibrations from the area.
2. The power block on the 12V battery in my truck didn't have an open bolt with a mounting block. So I just added the power line to an existing bolt.

So, thank you Riven for the help and inspiration to make my truck perfect for me.

IMG20241117104844.jpg


IMG20241117110806.jpg
That looks great! Nice work. I’m glad the install went well!
 

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What are the subwoofer specs?
Specifically, what is the total harmonic distortion, the intermodulation distortion?
And I am not talking about the distortion generated by the electronics.
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