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Dark-Fx

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5:00- he got more than 8 miles after zero
Rivian changed the amount of available energy at the bottom of the pack in an update this year, I would absolutely not use information from a video produced before that change in determining how much is left after zero today.
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BeanEW

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Yes, 0% went down hill for 4.5 miles.

My wife and I were going from California to Arizona on I-10. The NAV planned to stop at Blythe for charging but when we were about 10 miles from Blythe, the NAV changed the next charging point to Quartzsite which was 22 miles more. The NAV showed that we wouldn't have enough juice to Quartzsite. We stopped at Blythe anyway but the Chargepoint was down. We spent another two miles to look for a L-2 charger; luckily we found one at the City Hall.

After charging for about 1.5 hours, we had 26 miles and we needed only 22 miles to get to Quartzsite. So we thought we were good but... or not

We were new to road-trip with EV and didn't know "pre-conditioning" would happen. The battery drained like crazy, but our only option was to continue driving and call AAA if the car drops dead (oh yeah, we didn't have cell signal on the stretch). We hid behind a truck, turned off every that required electricity and drove like at 50 mph.

After we got to the hill top and about 5 miles from Quartzsite, we had our phone signal back then I knew we were good because we could always call AAA. Luckily, we were going downhill; the Turtle Mode showed up and we could barely pull into EA charging port.

Lesson learned was...
- charge the car whenever you can and always leave about 50 miles as a buffer
- turn off the NAV destination so the car won't pre-condition the battery when you really need the juice
 

goldburger

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Yes, 0% went down hill for 4.5 miles.

My wife and I were going from California to Arizona on I-10. The NAV planned to stop at Blythe for charging but when we were about 10 miles from Blythe, the NAV changed the next charging point to Quartzsite which was 22 miles more. The NAV showed that we wouldn't have enough juice to Quartzsite. We stopped at Blythe anyway but the Chargepoint was down. We spent another two miles to look for a L-2 charger; luckily we found one at the City Hall.

After charging for about 1.5 hours, we had 26 miles and we needed only 22 miles to get to Quartzsite. So we thought we were good but... or not

We were new to road-trip with EV and didn't know "pre-conditioning" would happen. The battery drained like crazy, but our only option was to continue driving and call AAA if the car drops dead (oh yeah, we didn't have cell signal on the stretch). We hid behind a truck, turned off every that required electricity and drove like at 50 mph.

After we got to the hill top and about 5 miles from Quartzsite, we had our phone signal back then I knew we were good because we could always call AAA. Luckily, we were going downhill; the Turtle Mode showed up and we could barely pull into EA charging port.

Lesson learned was...
- charge the car whenever you can and always leave about 50 miles as a buffer
- turn off the NAV destination so the car won't pre-condition the battery when you really need the juice
Good lessons thanks for sharing.
 

Craigins

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turn off the NAV destination so the car won't pre-condition the battery when you really need the juice
Disabling preconditioning is key. I have never seen precondition really save me any time at a level 3 charger. It seems to drain so much energy that you spend any saved time charging back the energy it wasted.
 

BeanEW

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Disabling preconditioning is key. I have never seen precondition really save me any time at a level 3 charger. It seems to drain so much energy that you spend any saved time charging back the energy it wasted.
I somewhat agree. Pre-conditioning didn't always made the charging goes faster... but the car, at most times, always displayed the charge point was limiting the charge speed.
 

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SSteveEV

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@Dark-Fx Good point about that battery change. It also looked pretty coincidental that as soon as he stopped the truck stopped. Unclear but I assume if he had stopped at -1mi or maybe even -9 miles he wouldn't have been able to start again due to software not actual battery capacity.

and re: pre-conditioning, I'm still waiting on a on/off button for that but I normally just set nav to whatever the store is nearby instead of the charger if I am running low to avoid pre-conditioning.
 

Spaceball1

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That's not exactly much of a throttle down! Isn't the speed limit usually 55mph on highways? I could understand the car throttling you down to 20mph to save energy given how much speed levels impact range.
Most highways out in Colorado are 75 mph speed limits, so me doing 60 was throttling! LOL This was before I went to zero, I believe, though.
 

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Thanks all for sharing your experiences. Your stories are very informative & entertaining!

Considering being in this situation brings up something I’ve often wondered - what is the optimum speed to maximize efficiency?

We always hear that slower is better, but I suspect that 30mph is better than 5mph. Perhaps the answer is - the speed at which aerodynamic drag starts to become a factor. Due to its squarish shape, I’m sure that number is much lower for a Rivian vs something like a Tesla Model 3.

It would be nice if Rivian would provide this data. Figuring this out would also be a good idea for one of the EV geeks on YouTube.
 

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Li-ion batteries like to live in 20%~80% range.

Always try to charge before you get down to 20%, when possible. On roadtrips, often have gotten down to single digit % and once into negative (-5%) on Model 3. Fortunately, Teslas have roughly 20~25 miles in reserve equivalent that it can reallocate from the system reserve. Sounds like Rivian does not.

I never trust what the displayed remaining range. Driving speed, conditions and topology affects the prediction so much so that it's nearly worthless. I always manage to the % remaining and the rate of decline as I am driving to make when to stop and recharge decision, as they are actualized real consumption rate at that time and location.
 
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You're knowingly getting that close to zero (yes, 10 is close to zero) and you're keeping your speed that high?

It's all about air resistance, y'all. I went 70 in a 70 for most of my trip today, through a mountain pass, and gained 3 miles from the original estimate.

SPEEDING KILLS (your efficiency)
When I started, I thought I had plenty of range, by the time I got off the freeway I was driving pretty conservatively. It was a pretty cold/windy night.
 

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You're knowingly getting that close to zero (yes, 10 is close to zero) and you're keeping your speed that high?
In some areas, the speed limit is 75-80, and going even 70 would make you by far the slowest vehicle on the road, creating a hazard. I experienced this a couple months ago in my Mach-E when I arrived at an EA with 5% remaining (I was even drafting behind a semi most of the way at 70, and was getting *SIGNIFICANTLY* worse efficiency than expected, I should have arrived with 15-20%,) Plugged in, wouldn't start charging. Switched to another stall, same. All four refused to start charging. There was a "municipal" CCS station a few more miles down the interstate (and at this location, the interstate was the only way between them without going dozens of miles out of the way on 55 MPH state highways,) so I got back on the freeway, my navigation yelling at me to stop at the broken EA I just left because I didn't have the range to make it. I went 55, semis honking at me as they blew past at 75+. (When I was drafting behind the 70 MPH semi most of the drive, we didn't pass anybody, ever. Every other semi was going at least 5 MPH faster.) Made it to the municipal station at 1 mile indicated, plugged in and it said 0%.

So yes, sometimes 71 MPH is essentially required, even at low SOC.
 

Dark-Fx

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@Dark-Fx Good point about that battery change. It also looked pretty coincidental that as soon as he stopped the truck stopped. Unclear but I assume if he had stopped at -1mi or maybe even -9 miles he wouldn't have been able to start again due to software not actual battery capacity.
I've never run any of my EVs low enough to know what typical behavior is, but at least in the Polestar 2 it keeps pulling a significant amount of power back as you approach zero percent. I suspect it's allowing just enough draw to keep the minimum cell voltage above the "do not cross" threshold and will keep allowing that until it basically means zero power available, or you come to a complete stop.
 

CharonPDX

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It's a limit, not a mandate. Stay to the right and ignore the peer pressure, you'll be just fine ?
Again, I did. And I was a hazard to other vehicles.

I am a "set TACC to speed limit+3 and sit in the right lane" kind of road tripper (that started when I got a Prius, and its display constantly taunted me that I could do better.) I'm comfortable being the slowest vehicle on the road. But at a certain point, you're so much slower that it's dangerous.
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