Radar Detector hardwire, who has done it?

[DevSecOps]

Could you link the mirror tap you used and what color wires you tapped please

MTX-1015, RJ-11, 15" Long Overall Length, Patented Radar Detector Power Cord with 2 Amp in-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, Made in USA https://a.co/d/dR4c7nt

Black and Red wires. Follow the pictures in this post https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/radar-detector-hard-wire-who-has-done-it.4253/post-147017

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[mike813]

How difficult was it to remove this panel? My truck doesn't have this 12v and I'm wondering if the wiring still exists so I could add it back.

@zefram did you remove the panel to see if a wiring harness was there? My R1S doesn't have the 12v under the dash, if the wiring is there I'd love to install a couple of receptacles...

Annnnddd - I just found out I need a new windshield. For anyone that has done the mirror power tap, have they ran into problems with windshield replacements? I don't exactly love how all my wire-tap and extra wires worked out and I ended up having to splice the wires. Not nearly as clean as I would have liked.

@Ted my windshield was replaced due to a faulty install seal shortly after I installed the rear view mirror tap. I dropped my truck off at the SC for the replacement with my cord tucked behind the sun visor and it was returned to me without issue

 

[zefram47]

@zefram did you remove the panel to see if a wiring harness was there? My R1S doesn't have the 12v under the dash, if the wiring is there I'd love to install a couple of receptacles...

I have not...was kinda waiting for someone else to be the guinea pig.

 

[HarisonAltDelete]

MTX-1015, RJ-11, 15" Long Overall Length, Patented Radar Detector Power Cord with 2 Amp in-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, Made in USA https://a.co/d/dR4c7nt

Black and Red wires. Follow the pictures in this post https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/radar-detector-hard-wire-who-has-done-it.4253/post-147017

Awesome thank you, you remember which size taps you used in the packet? Multiple fit and work but my experience with the tap kits they can get wonky after a few weeks if it's the wrong one

 

[DevSecOps]

Awesome thank you, you remember which size taps you used in the packet? Multiple fit and work but my experience with the tap kits they can get wonky after a few weeks if it's the wrong one

I used the smallest one. It's been installed for a while now and no issues.

 

[citizen]

Does anyone know how much power we can safely draw from the mirror tap setup w/o making things wonky for the existing system? I bought both the single USB-C and dual USB-C adapters. Hoping to install the dual to give me options in the future if I want to mount my phone or another device in addition to my dashcam.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCP86XPY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Single = 5V 3A 15W max
Double = 5V 6A 30W max, 15W max each

So if I max out 15W with an iPhone then tack on say... another 6W for the dashcam, too much power draw from the mirror tap?

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Going to go with the Viofo A139 Pro, heard it was pretty power-hungry for a dashcam and saw that it'll be drawing about 7.65W max (and likely mid 6W since I won't have the WiFi on) in the front and rear 2 channel setup.

 

[tipton]

For those interested, I was able to tap a fuse on the drivers side (F48) using the reference here. This is tied with the car powering on and off so isn't persistently on. I wanted a fuse tap so I could use the Uniden hardwire kit with the button box that I mounted below the steering wheel.

 

[citizen]

For those interested, I was able to tap a fuse on the drivers side (F48) using the reference here. This is tied with the car powering on and off so isn't persistently on. I wanted a fuse tap so I could use the Uniden hardwire kit with the button box that I mounted below the steering wheel.

Thanks for the tip! With every update I keep oscillating back and forth between mirror tap or fuse tap. Did a fuse tap in my Atlas and a mirror tap on the RX350h. Was just about to start the mirror tap install when I saw your update lol.

@tipton no fear of overloading Driver side F48 given that it also powers the wireless charger and RH 2nd/3rd USB ports? I assume RH stands for the right side?

 

[tipton]

Yea afaik RH = right hand side and that seems to be what it controls when I test the fuse. Alternative fuses which also seem to power down with the car are F55, F60. I figured the USB one would be the best as I wouldn't normally be using those ports in daily use anyways.

There shouldn't be any overload and if there was I would assume that the fuses would blow. One thing I wasn't able to figure out was the right direction of the fuse tap as I wasn't able to test the minitaps well enough with my multimeter. If someone could figure out the right direction for the electrical flow that would appreciated/safer, as hypothetically you could flow more amps into that circuit if it's the wrong way. I currently have a 5/10 setup on the amps for the tap, but 2/10 might be safer (I might switch to this when I have time...). I'm hoping it won't be a risk though as the detector runs at such a low amperage so hopefully it never even gets close to pulling the 15 if it's the wrong way. The original fuse is a 10 for reference.

Obviously take my notes with a grain of salt, I am neither a professional installer nor car electrician.

 

[citizen]

Hey folks, any of you have photos of your wiretap installed? Doing this for a dashcam so I just bought the step down regulator and pins separately and crimped them.

These were some of the smallest pins I found online but having trouble getting them in. Gonna take my pliers and flatten them out before making a second attempt.

Was hoping to check out some other installs to see if there were any tips.

 

[citizen]

N/M, after I flattened out the prongs, it all worked. Will have a better write up with what I used in case others are in the same boat this week.

 

[Sevn86]

For anyone with an Escort, mag mount detector, I've used these mounts for multiple vehicles to create a more streamlined look that doesn't fall off.

Clean install. I ended up ordering the same mount. Thank you for sharing!

 

[Sevn86]

Got my radar detector installed. The cover was on there super tight. It took way more force than I thought it would to get it off. Install was super easy thanks to others who posted. Many thanks @DevSecOps for suggesting the mount. Over the years I have used the included suction cup from escort but this is much more secure.

 

[timgradywy]

Just did my Valentine1. I used the smallest mirror tap and the mount listed below. The mirror tap wiring comes out near the rear view mirror stem. I mounted the mount sideways. When I had it mounted normally, it didn't allow full adjustability of the mirror and the radar detector hung way down. Now, it's mounted horizontally and I use the adjustability to put the radar detector flush with the bottom right of my rear view mirror. I also seem to have near full articulation of the rear view mirror.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082V1245P/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063N7UGA/

 

[Spaceball1]

For those interested, I was able to tap a fuse on the drivers side (F48) using the reference here. This is tied with the car powering on and off so isn't persistently on. I wanted a fuse tap so I could use the Uniden hardwire kit with the button box that I mounted below the steering wheel.

have you (or anyone else) had any luck finding a true “ignition” switched 12V supply? I’m having two issues with my accessories that are currently wired to the 12V under dash:

1. My Radar detector powers up anytime I’m in my garage. I do a lot of projects in and out of the garage so it’s not only annoying to hear the beeping boot up sounds constantly, but I would think that it adds unnecessary drain to the 12V battery. Have been living with it for months but would like to find a better solution

2. I just added an aftermarket screen to use for CarPlay, and right now it’s plugged into the 12V plug to test it out. Downside is again, this boots up anytime I’m near the truck, and then it grabs the wireless CarPlay to my phone which then drains my phone when I’m out or near the garage. Again, having the unit on unnecessarily adds more drain to the 12V.

I would prefer to find a 12V source that’s activated when the truck really powers on, like when I press the brake and the truck is ready to “drive.”

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