Sponsored

rbr19870445

Well-Known Member
First Name
J
Joined
Apr 6, 2023
Threads
8
Messages
127
Reaction score
196
Location
Charlotte
Vehicles
R1T, 981 GT4, 3rd gen 4runner, 1st gen JDM CRV
Clubs
 
I can't imagine a way where that speaker could ever be as loud as a real horn.
Probably not but the problem with this current horn is that it's essentially missing a whole register and sounds "whimpy" and not necessarily a noise that we associate as a "horn." I've thought a many of times of doing this upgrade but it should easily be programmable for this?
Sponsored

 

ImAI

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2022
Threads
10
Messages
169
Reaction score
188
Location
Sf Bay Area
Vehicles
Taycan TS, R1T
BONUS: During the install I found the 12V wires in the harness for a 12V outlet in the frunk tub (recent builds don't have this outlet) on a summer 2023 truck. Future project!
Hi @Nuclianba
When was your truck made exactly? I have a December 22 build and they said there is no harness for 12V in the frunk in mine, yet you had a single horn and i had two from the factory.

Never mind, you say the mfg. date at the end of your video--thanks!
 
Last edited:

Garzee

Active Member
First Name
Gary
Joined
Oct 17, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
29
Reaction score
8
Location
Chandler, AZ
Vehicles
Rivian R1S
I like that the factory horn is oriented forward/out the front of the vehicle and projects noise forward, so I wanted to keep it. There isn't anything wrong with that horn, its loud and is halfway there. There is also limited space to mount something new, I'm not sure a double tone horn would fit where I located my second tone, maybe not sure.

Also you'll have to do wire work regardless. The harness won't extend to the location I put the second horn, so if you mounted a complete dual tone unit there you'd still need a pigtail to reach (and if you somehow fit in the same spot as the current horn, which requires a lot more disassembly to get to and remove/replace, you'd also need to find an aftermarket that uses the same connector...maybe its the same as another OEM I dunno, I didn't really bother looking very hard)
Yeah, I figured as much. The moisture getting into the horn from the front may also be an issue with an aftermarket fitment not making a good seal up there as well. You did a very nice job with the video as well as the harness creation. Getting access to the factory wire harness, I might consider using a wire stripper to expose enough bare copper on the original wire to solder and "Tee" in directly followed by a good electrical tape wrap rather than trying to figure out how to get shrink wrap there. Then using some simple spade connectors for the new horn makes the whole thing 90% the cost of the horn only. The big "if" is if there is enough room to get my soldering iron in the area to make the solder joints properly. I wonder if there might be other areas to mount the horn for more of a direct and unencumbered blast? Once in there you could wire it wherever you want to go. Thanks again! I'm glad to have joined the forum!
 

Garzee

Active Member
First Name
Gary
Joined
Oct 17, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
29
Reaction score
8
Location
Chandler, AZ
Vehicles
Rivian R1S
I like that the factory horn is oriented forward/out the front of the vehicle and projects noise forward, so I wanted to keep it. There isn't anything wrong with that horn, its loud and is halfway there. There is also limited space to mount something new, I'm not sure a double tone horn would fit where I located my second tone, maybe not sure.

Also you'll have to do wire work regardless. The harness won't extend to the location I put the second horn, so if you mounted a complete dual tone unit there you'd still need a pigtail to reach (and if you somehow fit in the same spot as the current horn, which requires a lot more disassembly to get to and remove/replace, you'd also need to find an aftermarket that uses the same connector...maybe its the same as another OEM I dunno, I didn't really bother looking very hard)
Yeah, I figured as much. The moisture getting into the horn from the front may also be an issue with an aftermarket fitment not making a good seal up there as well. You did a very nice job with the video as well as the harness creation. Getting access to the factory wire harness, I might consider using a wire stripper to expose enough bare copper on the original wire to solder and "Tee" in directly followed by a good electrical tape wrap rather than trying to figure out how to get shrink wrap there. Then using some simple spade connectors for the new horn makes the whole thing 90% the cost of the horn only. The big "if" is if there is enough room to get my soldering iron in the area to make the solder joints properly.
 

dgennetten

Well-Known Member
First Name
Douglas
Joined
May 4, 2023
Threads
11
Messages
151
Reaction score
204
Location
Fort Collins
Vehicles
R1S
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
Clubs
 
Why not replace the factory horn with a dual tone horn and skip the extra wire harness work?
I was thinking the same. That would also eliminate the very noticable delay between the two.

I expect one should also be able to get a more robust horn.
 

Sponsored

EricR

Member
First Name
Eric
Joined
Jul 12, 2023
Threads
0
Messages
16
Reaction score
4
Location
Bend, OR
Vehicles
Tesla Y
Yeah totally agree, I'm not sure why I need 12 volts in the frunk. Sorta trying to invent a use case just to justify the project haha.
Use case: Unforeseen circumstances. You need it EXACTLY because you don't know why you would need it.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

Well-Known Member
First Name
Barnum
Joined
Mar 20, 2023
Threads
66
Messages
8,567
Reaction score
11,761
Location
SoCal
Vehicles
'23 GW Quad-Large R1T "Ghost"
Occupation
Advertising Circus
So here's a legit question. If Rivian can change the lock tone, couldn't they theoretically augment the horn with the existing outward facing speakers on the truck?
Think about how it is currently used. Likely not designed to have enough energy and amplification. A cheap off-the-shelf horn from a supplier like Hella, that probably cost less than $4 per unit to produce, is far more cost effective and durable than redesigning that sound system to include functions of a horn.
 

Diddy123

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2021
Threads
19
Messages
619
Reaction score
2,497
Location
Montana
Vehicles
Acura MDX
Based on the title of the thread, I expected this to be a very different conversation.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

Well-Known Member
First Name
Barnum
Joined
Mar 20, 2023
Threads
66
Messages
8,567
Reaction score
11,761
Location
SoCal
Vehicles
'23 GW Quad-Large R1T "Ghost"
Occupation
Advertising Circus
I was thinking the same. That would also eliminate the very noticable delay between the two.

I expect one should also be able to get a more robust horn.
Because, AFAIK, there is no such thing as single-unit electro-mechanical horn that can emit two tones simultaneously.

The closest thing is a compact air horn that has two trumpets molded together like conjoined twins, with a small shared air compressor that blow air through them. Each trumpet is tuned to produce a different tone. While this is more compact than the typical air horn kit, it still takes up more space then the electro-mechanical type Rivian (and most production cars) use. If you want to use a compact air horn, you'll need to fashion it's own fused relay circuit, with power coming direction from the 12V battery, and use factory horn wires only as the relay's trigger input.

The electro-mechanical types have a magnetic coil that vibrate a diaphragm. That vibration creates the frequency/tone. The trumpets project and direct the sound. Cheaper. Simpler. Faster acting and way more compact. The diaphragm is like a thin sheet of steel. Which would explain why Owner's Guide includes a warning about ingesting water and how owners should activate horn after fording water, in order to evacuate any water that has been ingested (to avoid corrosion and subsequent malfunction). When you wash your R1's take care to not spray water directly at the horn. They probably should have used this type of Hellas, instead of one that can hold water.
 
Last edited:

dgennetten

Well-Known Member
First Name
Douglas
Joined
May 4, 2023
Threads
11
Messages
151
Reaction score
204
Location
Fort Collins
Vehicles
R1S
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
Clubs
 
This one should do fine.

SYOAUTO Car Horn Truck Horn 12V Horn Waterproof High Low Tone Universal Fit Super Loud Electric Snail Horn 12V Horn Kit Replacement Horns https://a.co/d/aBDWkYe
 

Sponsored

iforbes

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ian
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
515
Reaction score
883
Location
Connecticut
Vehicles
R1T
Occupation
APRN
Clubs
 
Last edited:

iforbes

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ian
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
515
Reaction score
883
Location
Connecticut
Vehicles
R1T
Occupation
APRN
Clubs
 
Add-on question.

Could you wire the second horn to fit in the passenger side location? I think there is a blank now, but wondering if it could be popped out. This would, in theory, provide a louder horn?
 
OP
OP
Nuclianba

Nuclianba

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Threads
9
Messages
120
Reaction score
258
Location
East Bay, CA
Vehicles
R1T, Pacifica hybrid
Use case: Unforeseen circumstances. You need it EXACTLY because you don't know why you would need it.
That about sums up my interest in adding the port.

Getting access to the factory wire harness, I might consider using a wire stripper to expose enough bare copper on the original wire to solder and "Tee" in directly followed by a good electrical tape wrap rather than trying to figure out how to get shrink wrap there.
To be clear, I did solder all my joints, I just used the shrink to cover the connections. So I did get down into the frunk bay with my iron to solder directly on the harness to add my connector, you can do it...I just didn't (and don't) have confidence that elec tape would be there long term, survive a giant rain storm or puddle splash or whatever. And connectors were cheap so I went that route to allow easy changeout or whatever. I guess elec tape would be pretty protected in that part of the truck but also I theoretically could ford a river so...
 
OP
OP
Nuclianba

Nuclianba

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Threads
9
Messages
120
Reaction score
258
Location
East Bay, CA
Vehicles
R1T, Pacifica hybrid
Add-on question.

Could you wire the second horn to fit in the passenger side location? I think there is a blank now, but wondering if it could be popped out. This would, in theory, provide a louder horn?
That was my original plan but I quickly bailed....the problem is access there sucks. It wasn't obvious to me that the second horn plug is a knockout, and you can't really get at it through the front grill without risking busting it up, and from the backside its pretty boxed in by the radiator. Getting the frunk out and off was one thing, its pretty easy, but I didn't want to start disassembling the whole front end to change a horn out. So I put it where it fit and called it a day. I may look again in a couple days, I bought a second horn at 330Hz which I'm going to try out as well, see if I like the 330/400 combo more than 400/500, but first go-around it looked like a no-go without more significant interventions
 

iforbes

Well-Known Member
First Name
Ian
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
515
Reaction score
883
Location
Connecticut
Vehicles
R1T
Occupation
APRN
Clubs
 
That was my original plan but I quickly bailed....the problem is access there sucks. It wasn't obvious to me that the second horn plug is a knockout, and you can't really get at it through the front grill without risking busting it up, and from the backside its pretty boxed in by the radiator. Getting the frunk out and off was one thing, its pretty easy, but I didn't want to start disassembling the whole front end to change a horn out. So I put it where it fit and called it a day. I may look again in a couple days, I bought a second horn at 330Hz which I'm going to try out as well, see if I like the 330/400 combo more than 400/500, but first go-around it looked like a no-go without more significant interventions
That’s a bummer, but good to know.

I’m interested to see how the 330/400 combo sounds.
Sponsored

 
 








Top