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SSteveEV

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@Dark-Fx

So good news! I commuted home with it set to auto at 68. Left a 64* garage, 35* outside. Drove for an hour with auto set to 68*. All comfortable and stayed the same temp all the way! Arrived at about 72* per a different thermometer.
They even seem to have fixed the vent symbols. Initially it showed blue snowflakes but I guess once the heater had booted up it switched over to red flames.
And yet this morning starting with a frozen truck it didn't break 58* the whole hour drive. When I put the sensor right on top of the defrost vent it hit 68. So best I can tell, the cabin sensor is located somewhere incredibly close to a supply vent and is therefore sending out air at the set point but not a high enough temp to actually warm my cabin to the set point. Will test again tomorrow.
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EVTrukHog

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One thing to keep in mind is that preconditioning the cabin for 5 minutes doesn't use much power but letting the 1000#+battery precondition from 40 degrees to 65 will take a substantial amount of power so I would caution to use it sparingly if you wish to avoid surprise utility bills.
My truck seems to already employ some amount of battery conditioning when its cold outside. When leaving at 6AM for work with ambient temperatures in the 20 F range my battery will sometimes be as high as 65F even without waking or preconditioning the cabin.
unless you need the extra range of a more efficient preconditioned battery, I wonder if using shore power to precondition is burning more or less KWh of house electricity than just enduring the less efficient mi/KWh of an unconditioned battery during your daily commute?
 
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Stretch

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Nice updates, thanks Rivian!

(could you also add the ability to turn on the rear window/mirror defroster remotely in a future update?? Thx!)
 

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Dark-Fx

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And yet this morning starting with a frozen truck it didn't break 58* the whole hour drive. When I put the sensor right on top of the defrost vent it hit 68. So best I can tell, the cabin sensor is located somewhere incredibly close to a supply vent and is therefore sending out air at the set point but not a high enough temp to actually warm my cabin to the set point. Will test again tomorrow.
I have been leaving mine at 68 F lately and it has been fine every time. I don't doubt people could have issues occasionally but there are probably specific variables causing it. Maybe humidity levels?
 

zefram47

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Even with blended braking you still have human control of brakes. Just because someone isn’t proficient with 1 pedal driving doesn’t mean blended braking is a bad feature to implement.
Blended braking typically refers to blending regen on the brake pedal...not using brakes while lifting off the throttle because you failed at designing your cooling system properly. The R1 problem is that it starts limiting regen while descending long grades and "something" overheats. For me, it doesn't happen very often and usually when it does I'm going slow enough that the decreased regen is still sufficient to maintain speed. The absolute *last* thing any of us living in the mountains wants to see is the system dragging the brakes constantly going downhill to maintain speed because it will then overheat the brakes...and then you're fucked. Pikes Peak, for instance, has a brake check station where they literally will measure the temperature of your brakes and keep you there if they're too hot. As others have mentioned, if you really do lose enough regen that you need the friction brakes, then they should be applied such that you bleed off speed and then release the brakes until the speed creeps up "too much" and repeat. Continually dragging is bad.

It was a really poor implementation, but I had a Chevy Spark EV that gave a small amount of regen while lifting off the throttle and then gave full regen as you started applying the brake pedal. At some point in the brake pedal travel it started adding in friction brakes. I didn't particularly care for it, but I've read that modern systems do this blending far better partially due to using brake-by-wire tech, where the pedal isn't mechanically connected to the master cylinder. Porsche's system is supposed to be top notch on the Taycan, but I haven't had a chance to try one yet. Personally, I love 1PD and Rivian has actually pulled back on the max regen with 1PD I think over the past couple updates. It's possible it's a temperature thing as over 70F battery temps it does seem to be stronger, but I think they've also started ramping it in artificially rather than giving everything available as soon as you're totally off the throttle. Not a fan, either way.
 

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brancky3

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Blended braking typically refers to blending regen on the brake pedal...not using brakes while lifting off the throttle because you failed at designing your cooling system properly. The R1 problem is that it starts limiting regen while descending long grades and "something" overheats. For me, it doesn't happen very often and usually when it does I'm going slow enough that the decreased regen is still sufficient to maintain speed. The absolute *last* thing any of us living in the mountains wants to see is the system dragging the brakes constantly going downhill to maintain speed because it will then overheat the brakes...and then you're fucked. Pikes Peak, for instance, has a brake check station where they literally will measure the temperature of your brakes and keep you there if they're too hot. As others have mentioned, if you really do lose enough regen that you need the friction brakes, then they should be applied such that you bleed off speed and then release the brakes until the speed creeps up "too much" and repeat. Continually dragging is bad.

It was a really poor implementation, but I had a Chevy Spark EV that gave a small amount of regen while lifting off the throttle and then gave full regen as you started applying the brake pedal. At some point in the brake pedal travel it started adding in friction brakes. I didn't particularly care for it, but I've read that modern systems do this blending far better partially due to using brake-by-wire tech, where the pedal isn't mechanically connected to the master cylinder. Porsche's system is supposed to be top notch on the Taycan, but I haven't had a chance to try one yet. Personally, I love 1PD and Rivian has actually pulled back on the max regen with 1PD I think over the past couple updates. It's possible it's a temperature thing as over 70F battery temps it does seem to be stronger, but I think they've also started ramping it in artificially rather than giving everything available as soon as you're totally off the throttle. Not a fan, either way.
Fair enough, thanks for the explanation. I’m glad it’s optional for those worried about this situation but I’m very glad to have this available; it’s very annoying when my truck is limiting regen and doesn’t slow down consistently in regular driving.
 

R1Tom

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I have been leaving mine at 68 F lately and it has been fine every time. I don't doubt people could have issues occasionally but there are probably specific variables causing it. Maybe humidity levels?
Or maybe sensor faults and the system reverting to some secondary less accurate method. Mine works so perfectly I have to think something isn't working correctly in people's trucks that don't work darn near "perfectly".
 

R1Tom

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unless you need the extra range of a more efficient preconditioned battery, I wonder if using shore power to precondition is burning more or less KWh of house electricity than just enduring the less efficient mi/KWh of an unconditioned battery during your daily commute?
Ideal would probably to use the free heat of charging, meaning a calculated start time prior to scheduled departure, and then the pack would be heated simply from the process of charging. Otherwise the charging heating will be lost to environment by the time the preconditioning starts and then all that heat has to be physically added back.
 

VSG

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Has anyone received .50?
This happens Every. Single. Time. You would think people who have had their R1 for a year would be aware of this by now.

Releases are published every 4 weeks. Release .50 will come 4 weeks after release .46.

It has been only TWO weeks since 2023.46.0 was first pushed to customers. See the thread on 2023.46.0: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/software-update-2023-46-0-is-rolling-out.21965 which was opened on 7 December.
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