Print a strong latch for the compressor cover in the R1T. I bought an after market one online and it broke into 4 pieces first time I pushed it into the slot. The plastic was brittle and honeycomb, not solid or strong. Rivian did not make a good latch so the cover is often open and subject to getting broken off.I started with 1 printer a few months back to make parts for my car projects... then started the printing hobby. Right now I have 3 printers running 20 hours a day and a fourth large format printer coming at the beginning of the year. I'd love the file to print something for myself for a change.... Lately it has been gifts and 67 keychains for the kids at my daughters school.
Is this the one you bought? These have a shackle loop that go into the cable lock receiver and hold the door in place. A lot of the printed parts you buy online have a very low infill percentage value to save money on material. I'd probably print something like this at 85 - 100%. I consider you one of the OG's on this board, so I'd print you one for an emailed or snail mailed return shipping label. I don't have an R1T, but can try it across the street at my neighbors house.Print a strong latch for the compressor cover in the R1T. I bought an after market one online and it broke into 4 pieces first time I pushed it into the slot. The plastic was brittle and honeycomb, not solid or strong. Rivian did not make a good latch so the cover is often open and subject to getting broken off.
You are correct, having the right material is just as important as layer thickness, infill %. I'd probably make that part in ASA for the UV resistance, but PETG would also probably work, since that part really isn't seeing any kind of force placed against it. I ordered a large format CoreXY printer, that comes with a heated chamber. I have a couple items I want to print in Nylon with CF and my current CoreXY is kinda limited with exotic materials.Kindof new to this forum and I was wondering if anyone has created a section or pinned thread somewhere with a list of part models, basic reviews and advice on how to properly print functional parts?
To @Killer95Stang's point, the quality of purchased parts online can be dubious. Not just with low in-fill, but using the wrong materials, like PLA, for outdoor parts.
not to break up a friendly forum deal, but a simple glued neodymium magnet on the lid has worked perfectly to me. I’m an avid amateur 3d printer myself (following this thread in the hope that OP @trez63 will send out that coveted .stl fileHey Killer, the one I got was one of 5 different colored ones that were different than the one you linked. Also, only one was sent.
I will send $ to you for one, as well as put $ in a return envelope?
It can vary because the lid is on hinges. The magnet I used is 1/8” thick. I placed it on the compressor nozzle, then (I think) used a small square of that “alien glue” tape. I put the double sided tape on the magnet while it was on the compressor nozzle, closed the lid and held firm long enough for the magnet/glue to seal to the lid. It’s been on more than a year now, maybe more.The magnet thickness needs to be how thick ? ?
Thanks for your post and Idea. On Printables.com are a variety of downloadable 3d prints for Rivian. would you post it there?
it took about 10 iterations but it’s working really well now and as an added bonus it has eliminated the constant glare I had on the camera. A few hours well spent.
As part of the R&D department for Rivian related prints.... I took upon myself to print the RIT compressor door locks, even though I own a R!S. If you bump the infill percentage from 15% to 85% in PETG, they are strong enough for government work.It should be illegal to post a nice 3D part design and not link to the STL.