30amp Wall Charger question (Specifically Charge Point)

[leftyRIV]

We built our house in 2022; and in preparation of eventually getting our first EV, I had the home builder install a higher 240 volt outlet in the garage. Future proof the home, right? Seemed smart.
Unfortunately when I went to the Electrical design features meeting back in Dec 2021, I didn't know what I didn't know back then.
So I selected a 220v 30amp outlet. (might have just been the cost factor too - $370 vs $2300)

Question is, has anyone had experience with this set up using a 30amp on their Rivian? From all the research and videos I've been able to extract that you can set the amperage in your Rivian (obviously don't want to burn my house down).
-To take it one step further, Can I use an "adapter" from the 30 amp - so I can use a ChargePoint NEMA 14-50? Reason I want that charger is because my municipal electric company offers a very nice $$ kickback and monthly rewards for using this brand.

Any insights or answers appreciated.

Hopefully taking delivery of an R1S Dual Motor Standard+ soon.

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[Chrisy]

I am using my old dryer's 240V 30A line for charging my R1T.

I set the amperage 24A limit at the R1T 'energy' app as well I set the charging limit to be 24A inside my wall charger's app as well.

Everything working as expected and never had an issue with it.
The 30A cable gets lukewarm at my breaker-box after continuous long charging so I call that a pass

edit: NEMA 15R-50 plug at the end of the 30A run should be not a problem (charging-wise) if your breaker is 30A and you set both your R1S and your wall charger to 24A (not 30A!).

 

[leftyRIV]

I am using my old dryer's 240V 30A line for charging my R1T.

I set the amperage 24A limit at the R1T 'energy' app as well I set the charging limit to be 24A inside my wall charger's app as well.

Everything working as expected and never had an issue with it.
The 30A cable gets lukewarm at my breaker-box after continuous long charging so I call that a pass

edit: NEMA 15R-50 plug at the end of the 30A run should be not a problem (charging-wise) if your breaker is 30A and you set both your R1S and your wall charger to 24A (not 30A!).

Thank you!And yes set to 24amps

-what was your Kw/hour like during charging?

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

You should never operate a continuous load over 80% of the rated amperage for the outlet. In your case, you would need to limit all charging to 24A as it would be a continuous load.

You can certainly use an adaptor from NEMA 14-30R (the outlet you show in the photo) to NEMA 14-50, but you absolutely must set the amperage on the vehicle to 24A or lower. Your charger will not automatically limit the amperage if it can support more than 24A.

 

[Ngkgb]

Others can correct me if I’m wrong, but the Rivian will only draw what the charger will allow. If you set the ChargePoint to 24A, you shouldn’t have to worry about changing the Amps in the vehicle.

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Others can correct me if I’m wrong, but the Rivian will only draw what the charger will allow. If you set the ChargePoint to 24A, you shouldn’t have to worry about changing the Amps in the vehicle.

This is correct, but level 2 chargers are "dumb" in the sense that they cannot determine a safe amperage below whatever their maximum is set to. If the ChargePoint charger allows you to set a maximum amperage of 24A, then the vehicle will be forced down to no more than 24A. If the charger is set to a higher maximum, and the vehicle amperage is not properly set to 24A, you will trip a breaker at best or create a fire hazard at worst.

 

[Chrisy]

Thank you!And yes set to 24amps

-what was your Kw/hour like during charging?

between 5.6 and 5.8kW/hr maximum

 

[DeafPug]

@leftyRIV @Chrisy ”kW/hour” is a nonsense unit. Sorry, that like fingernails on a chalkboard! The two units are kW and kWh (kW * hour).

1 W (or Watt) is 1 Joule (amount of energy) per second. 1 kW (kiloWatt, where kilo=1,000) is 1,000 Watts or 1,000 Joule/sec. The Watt unit already means energy/time.

 

[leftyRIV]

@leftyRIV @Chrisy ”kW/hour” is a nonsense unit. Sorry, that like fingernails on a chalkboard! The two units are kW and kWh (kW * hour).

1 W (or Watt) is 1 Joule (amount of energy) per second. 1 kW (kiloWatt, where kilo=1,000) is 1,000 Watts or 1,000 Joule/sec. The Watt unit already means energy/time.

Noted. Sorry, every time I read it, I knew exactly what it meant. But had never typed it out myself, so in the moment of posting...I did the best I could.

 

[Kidentist]

Following

 

[240vPlug]

Remove the outlet and hardwire a charger. Set the hard wired charger for a max charge rate of 24 amps.

This is the safest way to do it. Using adapters and setting the truck is not a good solution for your permanent home charging install.

If your panel is fairly close it shouldn't cost too much to put a 60 amp circuit in there and hard wire up a charger that can give you the max of 48 amps.

Using adapters and setting the truck you run a high risk of overloading the circuit. Also, with plugs, adapters, and having to set the max charge rate on the truck your introducing additional failure points.

 

[MartinW]

Check your wire gauge. If you were lucky, you electrician back in 2022 might have installed cable that can support more than 30 amps. If so, it is easy to swap out the breaker and then either hardwire or change your outlet. Here's a guideline for wire gauge vs. amps:

 

[docwhiz]

Check your wire gauge. If you were lucky, you electrician back in 2022 might have installed cable that can support more than 30 amps. If so, it is easy to swap out the breaker and then either hardwire or change your outlet. Here's a guideline for wire gauge vs. amps:

It would be good to verify the wire gauge since that is the most important factor for charge current. You can set the max charge current in the Charge point app.
Also, best to hardwire the charger rather than use a socket.

 

[bigsky]

An EV at the other end of the charger is just a load, makes no difference to the charger in that regard.
In my previous home, I had a Tesla Wall charger installed professionally, and the company also installed a 240 V 40 A outlet, a NEMA 14-50. I used it occasionally when I charged my Tesla using the Mobile charger with a NEMA 14-50 short adapter plug cable that comes with it.
Perhaps you know this, but a NEMA 14-50 outlet for a dryer is not the same outlet I would want to use to charge an EV. Dryer plugs are meant for short use; an EV can sustain a very high load, 32A for hours. Make sure that your outlet is a NEMA 14-50 that is EV-rated.
That a regular dryer plug may work with a heavy-duty extension cord also, well, do not risk burning your homestead down to save a few bucks. Perhaps you are a professional electrician. If not, by all means have it professionally installed or better yet by somebody certified to install outlets and chargers for EVs.
In my new home, I decided to have just the Tesla Wall charger installed, no NEMA 14-50 outlet, even though my new homestead has a 400 A electrical service.
My local utility company gave me a rebate check for $300 , and Uncle Sam gave me a tax credit worth 30% of the charger and installation costs. In all, I was only $700 out of pocket. Peace of mind is priceless.
Please report back on how it goes.

 

[leftyRIV]

Check your wire gauge. If you were lucky, you electrician back in 2022 might have installed cable that can support more than 30 amps. If so, it is easy to swap out the breaker and then either hardwire or change your outlet. Here's a guideline for wire gauge vs. amps:

[Update]
So far good news from the home builder and licensed electrician that they are pairing me back up with:
Turns out Perry Homes (TX builder) equips all of their 220/240v outlets with 6-Gauge (Wire Size). From what I gather that means the wire is already able to carry a bigger amperage. Which leaves the electrician to come out and make sure:

1. They equip the breaker is set to 50 amps
2. and of course re-do the face plate for the outlet (ready to take on a NEMA 14-50)

Anything else that I might be missing?
--really huge thanks @bigsky @docwhiz @MartinW and others on this thread. This has turned out to be a way more helpful community than I would've expected.

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