Diving Into Gen2 Standard Audio to Add a Subwoofer

[Sundar]

Is it a passive sub? And is it dual voice coil? If it’s dual voice coil then you should be able to wire it like this by connecting in parallel like this:
https://images.app.goo.gl/oevEmNfUAe2fwki79

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[solaris]

Is it a passive sub? And is it dual voice coil? If it’s dual voice coil then you should be able to wire it like this by connecting in parallel like this:
https://images.app.goo.gl/oevEmNfUAe2fwki79

Not sure as I didn’t break open the enclosure to inspect. Interesting that they might’ve gone from a dual voice coil to a single in Gen2. The dream would’ve been to get a Gen2 subassembly to plug in.

I’ll bust out a breadboard tomorrow to try connecting in parallel without destroying the connectors. It’s a long shot because even with the one coil connected we should still hear something, but the cone never moved at all.

 

[Taco]

Wondering... Have you looked into the RiDE menu to see if you can enable the sub connection there?

Just thought of this.

 

[solaris]

Wondering... Have you looked into the RiDE menu to see if you can enable the sub connection there?

Just thought of this.

yep, tried looking the other day. Nothing in any of the menus would help. It just displays health checks for each system.

 

[Supratachophobia]

I ordered a Gen 1 subwoofer subassembly (PT0002995-D) before seeing this

Can confirm, no signal when connected. Even did a full reset to see if it would pick the sub up on rebooting, but no dice.

I did notice the Meridian subwoofer connector has all four pins populated with wiring, could there be more intelligence behind the software lock? As in, it probes and disconnects if not the right type of speaker?

No, I just think the sub is dual voice coil like the center channel. That way you pick up both left and right bass signals.

To be honest, I just grabbed a single mono channel in my Tesla and never looked back.

 

[Supratachophobia]

I ordered a Gen 1 subwoofer subassembly (PT0002995-D) before seeing this

Can confirm, no signal when connected. Even did a full reset to see if it would pick the sub up on rebooting, but no dice.

I did notice the Meridian subwoofer connector has all four pins populated with wiring, could there be more intelligence behind the software lock? As in, it probes and disconnects if not the right type of speaker?

Also, does the subwoofer fit right in on Gen 2??

 

[Sundar]

So any updates? Anyone get this working yet?

 

[solaris]

Also, does the subwoofer fit right in on Gen 2??

Yup, it’s a drop in replacement. Holes all align, but you’ll need to purchase automotive grade 10mm’s.

The only issue is the lack of active signal from the amp.

I’ll probably give up and go aftermarket if I can find an audio shop with experience with luxury vehicles in Westchester, NY. If anyone has any 1st hand recommendations then I’ll pull the trigger and document the process.

 

[Taco]

Rivian needs to enable that. Stupid to not allow others to upgrade / enhance

 

[Supratachophobia]

So any updates? Anyone get this working yet?

Sorry, I got distracted by installing solar panels on my pergola....

I'm going to get back at this next week to tap the wires in the front and tone out the subwoofer lead. I'm afraid it's disconnected somewhere in between (different wiring harness chance) so I don't want to commit to tearing things up too bad before that.

 

[Supratachophobia]

Yup, it’s a drop in replacement. Holes all align, but you’ll need to purchase automotive grade 10mm’s.

The only issue is the lack of active signal from the amp.

I’ll probably give up and go aftermarket if I can find an audio shop with experience with luxury vehicles in Westchester, NY. If anyone has any 1st hand recommendations then I’ll pull the trigger and document the process.

What about the plastic trim in front of the enclosure? Does that need ordered as well?

 

[solaris]

What about the plastic trim in front of the enclosure? Does that need ordered as well?

yes, if you want the stock look you’ll need PT00003451 from Gen 1, not sure what the Gen2 part number is on the premium audio builds. I mentioned some details on this earlier in the thread on why you need the full rear quarter panel trim.

If there was a guaranteed way or confirmed process to get the signal wires working then I would pull the trigger and also buy this part off eBay as well.

You seem to have much more confidence up front with the amp, so very curious! If it’s reversible I’d prolly follow your lead.

 

[Supratachophobia]

yes, if you want the stock look you’ll need PT00003451 from Gen 1, not sure what the Gen2 part number is on the premium audio builds. I mentioned some details on this earlier in the thread on why you need the full rear quarter panel trim.

If there was a guaranteed way or confirmed process to get the signal wires working then I would pull the trigger and also buy this part off eBay as well.

You seem to have much more confidence up front with the amp, so very curious! If it’s reversible I’d prolly follow your lead.

Lulz, I'm following your lead with interior trim..... ?

Signal wire tap it's pretty much a solved problem, it's just whether or not you can use that subwoofer line going back there or if you need to run something new. At least, that's where my heads at.

 

[StevenW]

My 2025 R1S comes in in 3 weeks.. By by Tesla model S.... Can't wait! No premium audio for me either. Did this get figured out? IE :: Best place to tap in and single vs dual coil? I know I'm going to want a sub. The premium audio would have lost me a $7500 MASS credit. I like music but that's a great credit to capture.

Thanks.,
Steve

 

[Supratachophobia]

My 2025 R1S comes in in 3 weeks.. By by Tesla model S.... Can't wait! No premium audio for me either. Did this get figured out? IE :: Best place to tap in and single vs dual coil? I know I'm going to want a sub. The premium audio would have lost me a $7500 MASS credit. I like music but that's a great credit to capture.

Thanks.,
Steve

Sorry for not updating. I put in a feature request to pass full range audio through the sub wires regardless of which audio package the car comes with. This is by far the easiest solution to get a signal where it needs to go; no cutting anything.

But I've had some recent distractions that kept this from being a priority. Add to that the standard audio sounds like hot garbage just by itself, I kinda lost the enthusiasm to do an aftermarket sub if the rest of it couldn't be helped.

This is the only time I've ever considered actually installing an amp to replace the factory one. And then just doing speaker level inputs for properly crossovered stereo output. Forget surround sound, it's not a movie theater. I just want good sounding audio.

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