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Kylechoffman

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Supratachophobia

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Supratachophobia

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Would that work in the open cavity in the passenger rear that is available? I had a 2023 R1S loaner with a sub in that area and the rattling from back there outside the vehicle was horrible. Inclined to think a sub in the spare cavity would be better but I am not an expert.
I think your comments are what everyone else has mentioned on things rattling. I'm curious if wrapping that box in felt tape people to install would get good results.
 

BrianB

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I thought I’d ask. Rivian service isn’t a help on our subwoofer quest.

“I sincerely apologize for the delayed response to your email. With the updates we email to our community regularly, we’ve been working around the clock to address our current and future community's questions, concerns, and feedback.

It's great to hear from you! I hope you're doing well and getting ready for some exciting adventures ahead of us.

That said, the Subwoofer comes as standard in the all of the gen.1 vehicles regardless if they are equipped with either the Meridian or Elevation Audio system.

When it comes to the gen.2 vehicles, if they are equipped with Rivian Audio, they don't come with the Subwoofer equipped. Only the Rivian Premium Audio comes with it included.

Unfortunately, I don't have any additional info regarding the wiring however, bear in mind that we don't encourage any 3rd party modifications/accessories being added to the vehicle that aren't provided and preapproved by Rivian. By not adhering to this, it may lead to the warranty being voided.

If you have any additional questions or comments, please feel free to let us know. We'd love to hear from you again and you can also reach us through Chat or Phone if you'd prefer that more!

In the meantime, don't forget to have safe adventures and a great rest of your week!”
 

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Wonder if there’s anyone with a total loss gen2 who could run some diagnostics on
Hey buddy..... Whatcha doing hiding up here?

P_20240829_012006.jpg


This is up under the passenger side dash. Orientation is connectors going up into the amplifier. Someone who isn't colorblind, can you find the two wires from the picture in the original post, in this picture?

Not sure what this means, but maybe the amps are the same between premium audio/standard, and it's just software/processing plus extra physical speakers that make up the difference?

I would be hesitant to physically cut the sub wires here since that's permanent. But this would also be an excellent place to tap an output to a wire than already runs back to *exactly* where you need it.

Last question to throw out there, are we thinking the crossover is done through software or hardware? If software, then a full range tap would need to be on a door speaker. But if hardware at the speaker, it could be done at any speaker.
This thread might help. https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...nder-drivers-seat-and-speaker-harness-pinnout

my takeaway is that:

1) if the 2 wire/4pin molex you found is the sub output you should be able to cut the molex off, connect a speaker to rca and test a cheap powered sub while playing music. If those wires are not pushing any energy while playing music and the molex was unplugged when you found it you should be able to just terminate them without issue. This would suggest the amp is software locked to prevent sub output. But…

2) based on the design of the prior gen audio, it’s possible that the center channel of the amp is pushing the same exact signal as the sub.


Good luck and god speed. Keep us posted if you decide to test my theory.
 

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Does the trim piece in the Gen 2 standard audio, that creates the cubby where the sub would be pop out or is it all part of the larger panel?
 
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Wonder if there’s anyone with a total loss gen2 who could run some diagnostics on


This thread might help. https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...nder-drivers-seat-and-speaker-harness-pinnout

my takeaway is that:

1) if the 2 wire/4pin molex you found is the sub output you should be able to cut the molex off, connect a speaker to rca and test a cheap powered sub while playing music. If those wires are not pushing any energy while playing music and the molex was unplugged when you found it you should be able to just terminate them without issue. This would suggest the amp is software locked to prevent sub output. But…

2) based on the design of the prior gen audio, it’s possible that the center channel of the amp is pushing the same exact signal as the sub.


Good luck and god speed. Keep us posted if you decide to test my theory.
The sub wire back there is software locked at the moment. No audio signal is passed to it. So in order to use it, you'd need to nap a full range door speaker at the amp and physically disconnect it from the amp so as to prevent problems should it ever activate in the future.
 

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The sub wire back there is software locked at the moment. No audio signal is passed to it. So in order to use it, you'd need to nap a full range door speaker at the amp and physically disconnect it from the amp so as to prevent problems should it ever activate in the future.
you tested no signal is passed through? Then my second theory is that the center channel wires can be taken and re-amplified into a dual channel amp set to send two mono channels to the center and sub. Do you know the ohm rating of the stock speakers?

another thought I had is to just mount a pair of HomePod minis behind the driver and passenger seats powered by the usb-c and connected to the hot spot. Even that has better dynamic range than the stock audio.
 
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solaris

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Does the trim piece in the Gen 2 standard audio, that creates the cubby where the sub would be pop out or is it all part of the larger panel?
It’s part of the larger rear quarter panel trim (PT00003451-M). On my Gen2 it looks like it’s riveted with plastic welds. It’s removable but destructive and non-reversible.
Rivian R1T R1S Diving Into Gen2 Standard Audio to Add a Subwoofer IMG_2126
Rivian R1T R1S Diving Into Gen2 Standard Audio to Add a Subwoofer IMG_2107
Rivian R1T R1S Diving Into Gen2 Standard Audio to Add a Subwoofer IMG_2113

It doesn’t look like the part has changed from Gen1, attachment points and other trim details look identical so to keep a stock look we’d have to acquire the Gen 1 part: PT00003451-L.

I may just 3D print a replacement grill and glue in place rather than get a whole salvaged quarter panel.
 

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Can anyone recommend good EQ settings for the standard audio? I feel like it was ok the first few days but it sounds super muffled at anything under volume 11-13 and at that point its insanely loud. My wife thinks it sounds like an audio system you hear at a pool under the water.
 

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Supratachophobia

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you tested no signal is passed through? Then my second theory is that the center channel wires can be taken and re-amplified into a dual channel amp set to send two mono channels to the center and sub. Do you know the ohm rating of the stock speakers?

another thought I had is to just mount a pair of HomePod minis behind the driver and passenger seats powered by the usb-c and connected to the hot spot. Even that has better dynamic range than the stock audio.
I'm not sure the center channel is full range. But I never thought to test it. I only tested the 3rd row speakers since they were the closet to where a sub would need to go.

I don't believe the ohm rating will matter much since I'm taking high level inputs into the amp. You trust a good point about step inputs into the amp. But not concerned enough since the sub wire that goes back there is only 1 pair. I really don't want to rip apart the interior front to back on this project.

And for the record, I've heard the center channel is dual voice coil with both a left and right input, but I don't think the gen2 supports that because the number of wires coming out of the amp. I think they are mixing the signal with software at the amp.
 

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Fwiw, I attempted to mount a HomePod mini but it requires an 18w power source and I think the behind the headrest usb-c tops out at 15w (same with rear infotainment usb-c). I think only the center console can power a HomePod mini.
 

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Fwiw, I attempted to mount a HomePod mini but it requires an 18w power source and I think the behind the headrest usb-c tops out at 15w (same with rear infotainment usb-c). I think only the center console can power a HomePod mini.
So many options would be better than the stock. I thought about velcro'ing a JBL Charge 5 to the dash.
 

Kylechoffman

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So many options would be better than the stock. I thought about velcro'ing a JBL Charge 5 to the dash.
Arguably you could just buy a sonos arc and put it on the dash. Get a sub and place it in the back and maybe two Eras in the middle row. About the same cost of the 1800 premium upgrade. Kind of ghetto but assume the sound will put the premium sound to shame.
 

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The sub wire back there is software locked at the moment. No audio signal is passed to it. So in order to use it, you'd need to nap a full range door speaker at the amp and physically disconnect it from the amp so as to prevent problems should it ever activate in the future.
I ordered a Gen 1 subwoofer subassembly (PT0002995-D) before seeing this :crying:
Rivian R1T R1S Diving Into Gen2 Standard Audio to Add a Subwoofer IMG_2135

Can confirm, no signal when connected. Even did a full reset to see if it would pick the sub up on rebooting, but no dice.

Rivian R1T R1S Diving Into Gen2 Standard Audio to Add a Subwoofer IMG_2134

I did notice the Meridian subwoofer connector has all four pins populated with wiring, could there be more intelligence behind the software lock? As in, it probes and disconnects if not the right type of speaker?
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