Simple 10" JL Subwoofer Install in R1T

[Absolution]

Amazing thread, quick question. Do y'all have the depth of the under seat storage once the tub is removed?

I know you recommend the JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 which is sealed, 400W RMS, and 5" deep

But, I was also looking at: JL Audio CP110LG-TW1-2 which is ported, 300W RMS, and 6 3/8" deep, I'm hoping if it fits this would be moving more air and have better lows?


thoughts? Will it work? Thanks in advance.

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[Revin]

Amazing thread, quick question. Do y'all have the depth of the under seat storage once the tub is removed?

I know you recommend the JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 which is sealed, 400W RMS, and 5" deep

But, I was also looking at: CP110LG-TW1-2 which is ported, 300W RMS, and 6 3/8" deep, I'm hoping if it fits this would be moving more air and have better lows?


thoughts? Will it work? Thanks in advance.

It is about 7.25" with the tub removed. I'm sure any sub will work fine. I just went with the JL because it is well-reviewed.

 

[Sloshy2]

Can attest that a good JL 10" sounds great and not boomy and obnoxious, but tight, clean and punctual. I had one JL 10" in a sealed small box that fit under the back seat in my old Sprinter and it was perfect in that shit box of a van. Filled the whole space with tight clean musical bass.

 

[SBJ]

I appreciate all your support throughout the thread, you have helped a lot of people on this forum.
Today, after I removed the tub from under the back seat I discovered that the OEM subwoofer sounds better just from removing the tub, go figure (better air movement).
I plan to add a 10" subwoofer similar to your setup. Being new to this do you think adding sound deadening to the metal box would improve things even more? Did you not add sound deadening so you could return everything to stock condition? Seems like it would be tough to remove once applied.

I added sound deadener and it now sounds amazing! Solid bass with no rattles.

 

[Revin]

Good idea!

 

[iQB]

It is about 7.25" with the tub removed. I'm sure any sub will work fine. I just went with the JL because it is well-reviewed.

@Revin
Can you confirm the max depth with the tub removed? I noticed the other post about the height being limited to ~7.25", but I need to confirm depth before proceeding with building my ported enclosure, thx.

 

[brancky3]

@Revin
Can you confirm the max depth with the tub removed? I noticed the other post about the height being limited to ~7.25", but I need to confirm depth before proceeding with building my ported enclosure, thx.

It's 7.25" depth at the front, 7.5" at the back.

 

[iQB]

It's 7.25" depth at the front, 7.5" at the back.

Thx @brancky3 , but I'm asking about the distance from the front of the opening to the rear. As an example, that JL enclosure dimensions are: 18.5(W); 11.125(H) & 5.875(D). This listing swaps depth and width for our purpose since he laid the box down.

Width isn't an issue and the height has already been provided, so I need to know the max depth. He has a foam wedge between the box and the rear wall, so I'm looking for the max dimension of that.

 

[Revin]

Thx @brancky3 , but I'm asking about the distance from the front of the opening to the rear. As an example, that JL enclosure dimensions are: 18.5(W); 11.125(H) & 5.875(D). This listing swaps depth and width for our purpose since he laid the box down.

Width isn't an issue and the height has already been provided, so I need to know the max depth. He has a foam wedge between the box and the rear wall, so I'm looking for the max dimension of that.

I just measured that and it’s 17”

 

[Professor]

I wanted to add a little more bass in my R1T but really didn't want to modify anything that I couldn't return to stock. On other cars and trucks I've had, I am always down to cut drill into parts since you can easily buy replacement parts online. But that's not the case for Rivian! I landed on this 10" JL powered sub from Crutchfield with their 8awg power kit. I also got the JL remote and RCA to speaker wire adapter.

First off, big shoutout to @Mohelp for his install thread here! He has some great info on power connection, wire routing, and OE plastic removal!

I poked the power wire though one of the free tentacles on this gromet and connected the wire to the free screw terminal on this power block (circled in green) with a M6 bolt. I attached the main fuse and ring terminal to the end of the wire too, just not in the pic.

I ran the wire behind the passenger side carpet and under all the side plastics until it entered under the rear seats. I already removed the OE sub and cargo tray using the thread I linked above.

I attached the ground wire to the OE bolt on the floor. For the ignition source, I found the thicker pink wire in this main harness that turns on when you walk near the truck or open the doors. It is quick to turn off when you leave the truck so it's fine with me. It works the same as a hardwired radar detector using the power behind the mirror.

The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other. I also had to extend them a little with the extra ignition wire from the power kit. Then I reinstalled the OE sub and plugged in the power, ignition, and RCA wires to the JL sub. It powered right up!

To hold the sub in place, I cut a big piece of polyethylene foam I had around and wedged it next to the sub. I also zip tied a tool bag in the empty space so I can still use the storage space without scratching the metal floor.

The last step was to install the remote knob. I wasn't sure if I needed this at first but it makes a huge difference for adjusting the sub while driving based on what you are listening too. I just ran the wire under the floor matt and into the center console storage. I then drilled a hole in the aftermarket organizer to mount the knob. Now I have a stealth way of making adjustments!

After fine tuning the settings to sound the best I laned on this. I'm not sure if it is because I mixed up the positive and negative when connecting the RCA to speaker wire adapter but it sounds a lot better with the polarity set to 180deg.

This sub makes a HUGE difference in the overall experience for all music I listen too in my R1T! With the bass knob set halfway all of the time, it adds just a little more bass over the OE sub with a clean sound, not obnoxious at all. If I turn the knob up to 3/4 then the hits really hard and fills the cabin nicely. It's nothing too crazy but IMO this is exactly what the Meridian system was missing.

 

[Professor]

I wanted to add a little more bass in my R1T but really didn't want to modify anything that I couldn't return to stock. On other cars and trucks I've had, I am always down to cut drill into parts since you can easily buy replacement parts online. But that's not the case for Rivian! I landed on this 10" JL powered sub from Crutchfield with their 8awg power kit. I also got the JL remote and RCA to speaker wire adapter.

First off, big shoutout to @Mohelp for his install thread here! He has some great info on power connection, wire routing, and OE plastic removal!

I poked the power wire though one of the free tentacles on this gromet and connected the wire to the free screw terminal on this power block (circled in green) with a M6 bolt. I attached the main fuse and ring terminal to the end of the wire too, just not in the pic.

I ran the wire behind the passenger side carpet and under all the side plastics until it entered under the rear seats. I already removed the OE sub and cargo tray using the thread I linked above.

I attached the ground wire to the OE bolt on the floor. For the ignition source, I found the thicker pink wire in this main harness that turns on when you walk near the truck or open the doors. It is quick to turn off when you leave the truck so it's fine with me. It works the same as a hardwired radar detector using the power behind the mirror.

The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other. I also had to extend them a little with the extra ignition wire from the power kit. Then I reinstalled the OE sub and plugged in the power, ignition, and RCA wires to the JL sub. It powered right up!

To hold the sub in place, I cut a big piece of polyethylene foam I had around and wedged it next to the sub. I also zip tied a tool bag in the empty space so I can still use the storage space without scratching the metal floor.

The last step was to install the remote knob. I wasn't sure if I needed this at first but it makes a huge difference for adjusting the sub while driving based on what you are listening too. I just ran the wire under the floor matt and into the center console storage. I then drilled a hole in the aftermarket organizer to mount the knob. Now I have a stealth way of making adjustments!

After fine tuning the settings to sound the best I laned on this. I'm not sure if it is because I mixed up the positive and negative when connecting the RCA to speaker wire adapter but it sounds a lot better with the polarity set to 180deg.

This sub makes a HUGE difference in the overall experience for all music I listen too in my R1T! With the bass knob set halfway all of the time, it adds just a little more bass over the OE sub with a clean sound, not obnoxious at all. If I turn the knob up to 3/4 then the hits really hard and fills the cabin nicely. It's nothing too crazy but IMO this is exactly what the Meridian system was missing.

I wanted to add a little more bass in my R1T but really didn't want to modify anything that I couldn't return to stock. On other cars and trucks I've had, I am always down to cut drill into parts since you can easily buy replacement parts online. But that's not the case for Rivian! I landed on this 10" JL powered sub from Crutchfield with their 8awg power kit. I also got the JL remote and RCA to speaker wire adapter.

First off, big shoutout to @Mohelp for his install thread here! He has some great info on power connection, wire routing, and OE plastic removal!

I poked the power wire though one of the free tentacles on this gromet and connected the wire to the free screw terminal on this power block (circled in green) with a M6 bolt. I attached the main fuse and ring terminal to the end of the wire too, just not in the pic.

I ran the wire behind the passenger side carpet and under all the side plastics until it entered under the rear seats. I already removed the OE sub and cargo tray using the thread I linked above.

I attached the ground wire to the OE bolt on the floor. For the ignition source, I found the thicker pink wire in this main harness that turns on when you walk near the truck or open the doors. It is quick to turn off when you leave the truck so it's fine with me. It works the same as a hardwired radar detector using the power behind the mirror.

The OE sub has 2 wires that plug into it. I tapped those into the RCA to speaker wire harness by pairing both negatives to one wire and both positives to the other. I also had to extend them a little with the extra ignition wire from the power kit. Then I reinstalled the OE sub and plugged in the power, ignition, and RCA wires to the JL sub. It powered right up!

To hold the sub in place, I cut a big piece of polyethylene foam I had around and wedged it next to the sub. I also zip tied a tool bag in the empty space so I can still use the storage space without scratching the metal floor.

The last step was to install the remote knob. I wasn't sure if I needed this at first but it makes a huge difference for adjusting the sub while driving based on what you are listening too. I just ran the wire under the floor matt and into the center console storage. I then drilled a hole in the aftermarket organizer to mount the knob. Now I have a stealth way of making adjustments!

After fine tuning the settings to sound the best I laned on this. I'm not sure if it is because I mixed up the positive and negative when connecting the RCA to speaker wire adapter but it sounds a lot better with the polarity set to 180deg.

This sub makes a HUGE difference in the overall experience for all music I listen too in my R1T! With the bass knob set halfway all of the time, it adds just a little more bass over the OE sub with a clean sound, not obnoxious at all. If I turn the knob up to 3/4 then the hits really hard and fills the cabin nicely. It's nothing too crazy but IMO this is exactly what the Meridian system was missing.

 

[Professor]

Revin, is it possible to use the 120V outlet in the gear tunnel to power the JL Subwoofer?

 

[Revin]

Revin, is it possible to use the 120V outlet in the gear tunnel to power the JL Subwoofer?

I don’t see why not. Although, converting from AC back to DC is less efficient.

 

[mkhuffman]

Has anyone done this with the Gen2 that has a subwoofer? I assume the process is similar.

Thanks @Revin for taking the time to share this with us. I think this mod is in my future...

 

[iQB]

Has anyone done this with the Gen2 that has a subwoofer? I assume the process is similar.

Thanks @Revin for taking the time to share this with us. I think this mod is in my future...

I'll be working on my install over the next couple of weeks as I have time. I literally just installed the power wire from the battery, which was under the front passenger seat. It was a PITA getting the seat bolts out, but if you have an impact wrench and a 15mm socket, should be easy work. Additionally, as I was pulling trim, I noticed we don't have that 12V wire to tap into on the passenger side like the G1's. I have an audio control amp that can use the speaker signal for on/off, which may be a better option (heard others had issues with the startup current draw using the 12V wire).

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