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NY_Rob
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Not interchangeable......
superdavePA
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FYI... Rivian Style moved to a new site: https://jackpucks.com/
NY_Rob
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Wonder if they got a "cease and desist" from Rivian legal regarding using the Rivian name as part of their brand or on their products? I remember Tesla went after many 3rd party manufacturers and sellers a couple of years back for something similar.
rivian1800
Well-Known Member
You will be the judge…
PS
First set of tires(OEM), rotation has been done by the guys from Discount Tire(twice) but with the new set of tires (for winter season) was installed by the guys from Tire Discounters(using my pucks).
PS
First set of tires(OEM), rotation has been done by the guys from Discount Tire(twice) but with the new set of tires (for winter season) was installed by the guys from Tire Discounters(using my pucks).
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Killer95Stang
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I know the answer already, but just want to vent. Why can you buy a 4 pack of Tesla pucks for $14.99, but the Rivian ones need NASA certifications, causing them to be $200+ for essentially the same part. I'm almost tempted to waste a few hours and just machine a set for myself. No fancy anodizing or magnets.
roberttatefan
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Background: My first job was at Discount Tire and I have what I'd consider moderate mechanical experience from working on cars over the years. In preparation to have snow tires put on my R1T, I opted to remove the panels because I too thought $200 was an absurd expense for what is a straightforward (and necessary) process. I have a lot of experience jacking up various vehicles and given my Audi/VW ownership history, have a lot of experience with plastic panels/splash guards and various retention mechanisms.
Despite being careful (and referencing both the manual and internet several times), I broke clips on 3 of the 4 panels while removing them. They're simply not designed to be removed. I actually thought about making a YouTube video or doing a DIY to show people what the clips look like so that other folks have a better idea of how to apply force when removing the panels to decrease the likelihood that they'll break a clip. Even after understanding the mechanism of affixation, I proceeded to break more clips. This was despite adequate lighting, trying a barrage of tools to help gently coax the clips out etc. YMMV but these clips are going to break no matter what you do, in my humble opinion.
The panels themselves are entirely made of plastic, including the mounting points for the metal clips, which slide into metal mounts on the underside of the truck. The metal clips exert enough outward force to retain them in their mounting points unless compressed (impossible) or carefully pulled straight downward (unlikely due to design of the panel). The weak point is how they affix to the panel, where they will break at some point.
I have two recommendations:
1) Have a shop remove the panels. At least they'll be liable when they break.
2) Buy the pucks. This is a silly expense and to the point of others, I'm holding out that someone makes a far less expensive alternative.
I went with option 3. I filed a service ticket with Rivian and am pushing for it to be covered under warranty.
Despite being careful (and referencing both the manual and internet several times), I broke clips on 3 of the 4 panels while removing them. They're simply not designed to be removed. I actually thought about making a YouTube video or doing a DIY to show people what the clips look like so that other folks have a better idea of how to apply force when removing the panels to decrease the likelihood that they'll break a clip. Even after understanding the mechanism of affixation, I proceeded to break more clips. This was despite adequate lighting, trying a barrage of tools to help gently coax the clips out etc. YMMV but these clips are going to break no matter what you do, in my humble opinion.
The panels themselves are entirely made of plastic, including the mounting points for the metal clips, which slide into metal mounts on the underside of the truck. The metal clips exert enough outward force to retain them in their mounting points unless compressed (impossible) or carefully pulled straight downward (unlikely due to design of the panel). The weak point is how they affix to the panel, where they will break at some point.
I have two recommendations:
1) Have a shop remove the panels. At least they'll be liable when they break.
2) Buy the pucks. This is a silly expense and to the point of others, I'm holding out that someone makes a far less expensive alternative.
I went with option 3. I filed a service ticket with Rivian and am pushing for it to be covered under warranty.
kylealden
Well-Known Member
Reminds me of the clips securing the tow hitch cover on the Model Y. Absolute nightmare. I know Munro & company love this stuff for saving $ in manufacturing but it's an absolute nightmare for things that really should be designed to be modular.
Even the puck jack point covers are fussy.
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I'll just leave this here while we're talking about NASA pucks... 
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DTown3011
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I actually called Discount Tire here in Colorado (Thornton location) and asked if they had the pucks - they are on the way, but they don't have them yet. Apparently the location in Golden DOES have them, so it's shop dependant at the moment.
I'd be interested in splitting or sharing some pucks with any local Rivian owners in the Denver metro/north Denver area as I will likely use them 2x per year and it seems like a silly expense I don't really need to incur.
I'd be interested in splitting or sharing some pucks with any local Rivian owners in the Denver metro/north Denver area as I will likely use them 2x per year and it seems like a silly expense I don't really need to incur.
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Absolutely you need Jack Pucks. Removing panel screws and panels is a recipe for a stripped thread, lost screw or other.
As an R1T owner I determined early on that magnets were a far better solution than o-rings (other suppliers obviously agree), so that is the path I went with for our product and since it is a $90K vehicle, I wanted the entire package to have curb appeal.
Single pucks are in stock. We transitioned to a product specific site www.jackpucks.com to focus on this product.
Turn up the volume (it's music to my ears)
As an R1T owner I determined early on that magnets were a far better solution than o-rings (other suppliers obviously agree), so that is the path I went with for our product and since it is a $90K vehicle, I wanted the entire package to have curb appeal
.Single pucks are in stock. We transitioned to a product specific site www.jackpucks.com to focus on this product.
Turn up the volume (it's music to my ears)
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MAR1T
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- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks all. I ended up ordering the pucks from www.jackpucks.com. I can’t speak to the quality of the pucks (haven’t received them yet) but Mark at jackpucks was super helpful and got them shipped out quickly. Thanks Mark!Absolutely you need Jack Pucks. Removing panel screws and panels is a recipe for a stripped thread, lost screw or other.
As an R1T owner I determined early on that magnets were a far better solution than o-rings (other suppliers obviously agree), so that is the path I went with for our product and since it is a $90K vehicle, I wanted the entire package to have curb appeal
Single pucks are in stock. We transitioned to a product specific site www.jackpucks.com to focus on this product.
Turn up the volume (it's music to my ears)
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Guys, we were the first to bring jack pucks to market for Rivian (and have been selling them for a decade on the Tesla side) - happy to share all our learnings:
1 - we tried using a polymer puck, like Teslas use. Different from Tesla, a Rivian puck needs to be at least 2" tall and only 2" wide to fit in the access panel - the Tesla puck is 3" wide and 1" tall. Our polymer Rivian puck prototype bulged like it was ready to explode, due to the massive R1T weight. Really didnt feel safe with the polymer in that extreme compression. Even on Tesla, the bulge a little. So...we made aluminum pucks. Since then, we've iterated pucks multiple times - we make them however you like; with o-rings, or with magnets, in raw aluminum finish, or anodized finish, with case, without case, 1 puck, 2 pucks, 4 pucks....all made in the USA. Take your pick! We have also offered trade-in upgrades to all prior customers. So if ordered our V1 and down the road wanted to switch to a newer version....easy, just call us and trade in your used puck. Find our pucks here: https://evsportline.com/collections...et-aluminum-heavy-duty-lifting-jack-pad-pucks
(use code RIVFORUM for free ship!)
Our pucks are stackable and nest together, so you can get extra reach/lift, as needed. Not all floor jacks reach tall enough for Rivian, so nesting to reach is important!
2 - Removing panels versus using pucks: Rivian advises you can remove the plastic covers found on each of the 4 corners of the truck, inside the wheel, if desired, and jack/lift directly on the frame structure. The corner panels are not too bad to pull off...couple bolts and off the come. The center plastic panel is held in with clips and needs pulled off - it's very doable, but sounds worse than it is, and it takes some effort to yank it off.....or, just get get jack pucks and never mess with the plastic panels!
3 - For those that need a complete jack solution, we created this Rivian Bottle Jack kit as well. Perfect for at home tire swaps, or to carry with you at all times for flat tires - it only weighs a little under 10lbs:
https://evsportline.com/collections...-aluminum-heavy-duty-lifting-jack-by-team-1ev
Check out the video here:
....we have another new jack product dropping next week - stay tuned!
1 - we tried using a polymer puck, like Teslas use. Different from Tesla, a Rivian puck needs to be at least 2" tall and only 2" wide to fit in the access panel - the Tesla puck is 3" wide and 1" tall. Our polymer Rivian puck prototype bulged like it was ready to explode, due to the massive R1T weight. Really didnt feel safe with the polymer in that extreme compression. Even on Tesla, the bulge a little. So...we made aluminum pucks. Since then, we've iterated pucks multiple times - we make them however you like; with o-rings, or with magnets, in raw aluminum finish, or anodized finish, with case, without case, 1 puck, 2 pucks, 4 pucks....all made in the USA. Take your pick! We have also offered trade-in upgrades to all prior customers. So if ordered our V1 and down the road wanted to switch to a newer version....easy, just call us and trade in your used puck. Find our pucks here: https://evsportline.com/collections...et-aluminum-heavy-duty-lifting-jack-pad-pucks
(use code RIVFORUM for free ship!)
Our pucks are stackable and nest together, so you can get extra reach/lift, as needed. Not all floor jacks reach tall enough for Rivian, so nesting to reach is important!
2 - Removing panels versus using pucks: Rivian advises you can remove the plastic covers found on each of the 4 corners of the truck, inside the wheel, if desired, and jack/lift directly on the frame structure. The corner panels are not too bad to pull off...couple bolts and off the come. The center plastic panel is held in with clips and needs pulled off - it's very doable, but sounds worse than it is, and it takes some effort to yank it off.....or, just get get jack pucks and never mess with the plastic panels!
3 - For those that need a complete jack solution, we created this Rivian Bottle Jack kit as well. Perfect for at home tire swaps, or to carry with you at all times for flat tires - it only weighs a little under 10lbs:
https://evsportline.com/collections...-aluminum-heavy-duty-lifting-jack-by-team-1ev
Check out the video here:
....we have another new jack product dropping next week - stay tuned!
Last edited:
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speaking of pucks, here is a shot from the shop floor today - MADE IN THE USA! Oh, we also offered a promo code: TheOriginal (for 10% off)
Sprout
Well-Known Member
Your website says back-ordered until the end of January but it looks like you've got a few sets....speaking of pucks, here is a shot from the shop floor today - MADE IN THE USA! Oh, we also offered a promo code: TheOriginal (for 10% off)
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