CarPlay & Android Auto Smart Dash Screen has arrived! New from EVSportline.com

[PhatDaddy]

Just received my order and everything looks good. Like @shrink has already done, my next mod is adding the dual StowNCharge charging solution with a pair of Apple OEM MagSafe pucks hardwired into the OEM charging pad plug. Since it sounds like that particular combination may be creating some issues, I'm holding off on my install until @shrink and/or the forum community determines a viable solution to the fuse issue. So watching this thread intently...

On a whole different tangent, now that I've received my @EV Sportline unit and seen the size and thickness of the screen in person, was wondering it anyone has given any thought to a possible custom mounting of the screen to the back of the driver's sun visor? Some level of power there already for the vanity mirror. Just curious. A surface mount might be a little bulky, but with some mods to the visor, might could be mostly embedded into that. Too distracting that close to driver's face? Not available for passenger manipulation? It would allow it to be flipped out of sight when desired. Personally - here in sunny Florida - I drive with my sun visor down almost exclusively, except at night. Would be one less screen on the dash, although would almost certainly require some perhaps 'less reversible' customization. But if I had to buy a new visor someday to return the vehicle to OEM status, that shouldn't be a huge outlay. Just wondering if anyone had considered the option...

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[EV Sportline]

Attention LA area folks...anyone looking for a FREE install? We need to install one at our Van Nuys facility to shoot some videos - let me know! email [email protected] with subject "FREE LA INSTALL"

 

[shrink]

@shrink, according to the description.. F47 only powers the left side 1st and 3rd row USB ports and since you have an R1T.. looks like it's only the front center console USB ports? I'm guessing the front seatback and rear console USB ports are covered by F48 "2nd row USB"?

You could always pull F47 and see which USB ports no longer work.

F47 is officially a no-go for me.

I got power to the display again BUT I lost power to my Gear Guard drive plugged into the center console.

@EV Sportline any suggestions?

 

[NY_Rob]

F47 is officially a no-go for me.

I got power to the display again BUT I lost power to my Gear Guard drive plugged into the center console.

@EV Sportline any suggestions?

I read some info from way back that the front USB ports were limited to 15 watts total between both of them.. maybe that's what made it fail for you? Sorry....

 

[shrink]

I read some info from way back that the front USB ports were limited to 15 watts total between both of them.. maybe that's what made it fail for you? Sorry....

Yeah, this might be 12V or bust for me. I did buy 2 of these for one of the R1S’s but it doesn’t appear to be an option for me.

Will wire to the R1T 12V when parts come in and see if I can tolerate visible wires.

 

[SoCal Rob]

Yeah, this might be 12V or bust for me. I did buy 2 of these for one of the R1S’s but it doesn’t appear to be an option for me.

Will wire to the R1T 12V when parts come in and see if I can tolerate visible wires.

I don‘t have one of these yet so I can’t do testing myself. From a troubleshooting perspective I have a suggestion which I don’t think has been done yet but I may have missed something or forgotten what I already read.

To eliminate a physical defect with the fuse tap, what happens if you unplug the power cable from the new display? If other items originally powered (wireless charging, console USB, etc.) still don’t work then I think it could be a defective fuse tap. If you have a continuity tester and if it works like other similar fuse taps I’ve used, you can pull the tap from the fuse box, pull the fuse from the tap and test for continuity from the blade to receptacle one end at a time to make sure that the tap is actually connecting each end to the fuse slot and the fuse.

 

[shrink]

This might be user, er installer error, on my end! Just noticed something but need to run to an appointment.

I’ll try one more thing when I get back. Will update later

 

[PhatDaddy]

This might be user, er installer error, on my end! Just noticed something but need to run to an appointment.

I’ll try one more thing when I get back. Will update later

Makes me wonder about the comments from NY_Rob that he may have heard "front USB ports were limited to 15 watts total between both of them". You are using (and I want to do the same) TWO Apple branded charging pucks. From Reddit: "When the MagSafe Charger negotiates for power it specifically looks for 9V x 2.22A supply, which is only present in 20W PD 3.0 adapters". And from Apple: "Recommended: 20W USB-C Power Adapter (sold separately)"... and "The MagSafe Charger will also function with power adapters that provide a minimum 12W (5V/2.4A) of power, but this will result in slower charging."

And that is for a SINGLE Apple charging puck... so there may just not be enough juice to run it all off of fuse 47 OR 48. :-/
May have to move on to a OBD port tap and hope it has enough wattage. Unfortunately, believe it is 'aways hot' :-(

 

[jebinc]

@EV Sportline @jebinc @Mcdubjr

Even though I have a 12V in the center stack in my R1T, I hate seeing wires and decided to hardwire this last night Into the recommended F48 fuse. I ran and hid the wiring pretty easily. I was very surprised at how easily and conveniently the dash pad comes up. I went straight across the dash to the driver's side door as others have done. The display mount is rather brilliant in my opinion. Very well done @EV Sportline.

The EVSportline CarPlay/AA display powered up but also IMMEDIATELY cut off charging on my precious StowNCharge, which is just a pair of Apple OEM MagSafe pucks hardwired into the OEM charging pad plug (and mounted in the best tray and storage solution ever).

When I unplugged the EVSportline CarPlay/AA fuse tap and re-inserted the OEM 10 amp fuse, my iPhone 15 Pro immediately started charging again on both MagSafe pucks mounted in the StowNCharge.

The display then would NOT power up via my 12V, but thankfully @jebinc researched that and I know I need to get a QC adapter. The one I have has USB-C PD ports. I'll try it again when whatever I ordered arrives and see if I can live with the visible wires.

Is there another possible fuse that can be tapped safely while maintaining full functionality? Is there a workaround to using the same F48 fuse? As @NY_Rob pointed out in that fuse chart, the display and OEM charging pad are on the same circuit and apparently, for a handful of us at least, do not play well together.

Yep, been running from the 12v plug, without issues," since the day of installation. Both flush chargers work and you need the QC adapter, as mentioned in my other review thread.

 

[jebinc]

I read some info from way back that the front USB ports were limited to 15 watts total between both of them.. maybe that's what made it fail for you? Sorry....

Find out what fuse is used to power the 12v dash plug, and use that one (if you rather hardwire and not just use the 12v plug, directly).

 

[sacramentoelectric]

Any tips for reducing the shake on the screen when in motion? I've got a good amount of vibration in mine on anything but the smoothest roads. I'm wondering if it's my install or everyone has the same issue.

 

[Mahawkma]

Mine shipped today. However, if connecting it "kills" the power to the wireless charger(or any other USB port), that is probably a deal breaker for me.

 

[shrink]

This might be user, er installer error, on my end! Just noticed something but need to run to an appointment.

I’ll try one more thing when I get back. Will update later

Well, I am happy to report that I AM an idiot and it was user error! All is working - and quite well. Pretty impressed with this.

Long story short:
- I only watched the video and didn't read the written instructions and forgot to add the 2nd fuse, which is included in the bag (Step 5):

https://evsportline.com/blogs/news/...ay-android-auto-smart-dash-screen-by-team-1ev

I had originally only put the OEM fuse into the fuse tap.

All is in working order now - power to the display and my precious StowNCharge and Gear Guard HD remain powered.

A few more installation photos below. Propping the dash up is pretty easy with trim removal tools.

Hardest part is hiding the wires. This trim piece pops open pretty easily:

I used some double sided tape and a zip tie to secure the power module and some excess wire on to some sort of metal frame behind the dash:

I similarly used a zip tie to secure excess cable near the fuse box to an existing threaded cable:

I tucked the wire using aforementioned trim tools to pull panels out push the wire in behind the trim panel and A-pillar liner along the path in yellow:

There are absolutely no visible wires in my installation:

I ended up offsetting placement towards the driver for convenience when touching the screen. Really looking forwards to the TrailsOffRoad and Gaia integration!

Can't wait to use this a bit more in the coming days and weeks!

One final note for idiots like me - I was about to complain about the touch responsiveness being laggy, then I removed the protective plastic screen cover. LOL. Not my best moments with this installation!

 

[KBabione]

Well, I am happy to report that I AM an idiot and it was user error! All is working - and quite well. Pretty impressed with this.

Thanks for the brutal honesty on this and for the teaching moment that will benefit the rest of us. I like the full-left offset of the unit and think your explanation makes a lot of sense - get it closer to the driver.

 

[NineElectrics]

@EV Sportline, please let us know if you ever update the firmware.

Also, the unit can rattle under certain conditions: on rough roads. Usually this is when everything else in the car is rattling. I wonder if a flatter/deeper/wider, stiffer under dash adapter would help here. I can move it around pretty easily with my hand.

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