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Yeah that's impressively bad.

As somebody who's standard cruising speed on the highway is 80mph no matter the weather I'd say if you're ever touching the limit on the highway you're driving way too hard and putting yourself and others at risk.

Sigh, I didn't mean literally no moving parts. That's nothing compared to ice stuff.

Maybe its worse on some then others. We have an 8 year drivetrain warranty on these things, I have a feeling if rivian thought it was an issue they wouldn't allow it to be done under power. There are really no moving parts to break in the process - if it was an ICE awd system even the subtle...

How many miles did they make it after the rotation?

Woof, everyone here just loves pissing away money and time I guess.

I can only speak for the teslas moving power front and back based on throttle but there is no noticeable change at all. I'd be curious what is disengaging those motors as there is no driveshaft, transfer case, etc connecting the front and rear. The 'bang' (I find it more subtle then a bang...

That's lateral grip which awd will do nothing for but help try and correct when you make a big mistake in going too fast under too much throttle (by sending power to your wheels with grip, which were the fronts anyway if you kicked the rear end out). If it was at 65 I'd have the truck be in awd...

I would want it to kick back to awd below 70ish mph anyway. But the wear on the front tires is just going to be evenly spread to the rears in awd anyway. Tire wear shouldn't be an issue in front wheel engaging only on highway cruising, or we would hear about the front tires constantly needing...

Are you suggesting every front and rear wheel drive car is just sitting at the limit while cruising along on the highway? I can guarantee you you've never even approached the limit of longitudinal grip with two wheels driving on the highway if there isn't snow on the ground, let alone four.

I'd be curious to know why. There is no driving feel difference when highway cruising and your efficiency goes up a good bit.

Let me be more specific. The car should automatically move power to just the front wheels at highway speed in all purpose mode to save juice, thats basically all conserve mode does. But it should also re-engage awd at a certain throttle position. This is how the tesla's function. There is...

Conserve mode saves a ton of juice. I mean I have seen upwards of 25%. Dual motor Model S' automatically switch to front wheel drive above 70mph or something like that. Rivian needs to program this truck to do the same for highway travel. Edited for clarity.

Long story short I just want to get my tonneau closed instead of waiting for an appointment for Rivian to do it for me while they try and figure out how to repair them. Has anyone put together a guide? There is a video on youtube but its already torn apart so I can't see how much of a hassle...

My powered one delivered pre-broken for me, so consider yourself lucky.

I have high hopes for Driver+ because, unlike the big OEM's, Rivian can keep updating previous model year cars with new software (like tesla) where I can almost guarantee the Mach-E and Lightning previous year models will be abandoned very quickly.

My two cents with very little actual knowledge is that electric motors are most efficient when they’re putting out as much torque as possible. Hence why conserve mode saves so much juice over the motor split all purpose mode does (you can watch the torque split in the rivian modes video). So I’d...

I paid 75 and its worth over 100k used. Buy the large pack, if you hate it, sell it for significantly more then you paid and order max. Win/Win.

Ditch the max pack, its vaporware. I got a VIN assigned two weeks after dumping it from my build.

It's a business trying desperately to grow with minimal presence across the country. So the message is buy our truck even though we have very few service centers and when it breaks, which it will because its a new product, pay an insane amount of money to have it shipped back to us to repair. No?