"New" 12V Battery Jump Start process update from Rivian

[PhatDaddy]

The jumper wires in the back of the vehicle seem to strictly be designed to be able to get access to the batteries in the frunk to do a complete jump. I think the requirement for 30A is because that's the power needed to energize all of the necessary electronics to be able to open the frunk.

So by 'complete jump', do you mean recharge? So if I want to hook up to a trickle charger, those rear leads will work fine? And can you clarify the 'override' a charger connected to those rear leads needs to have to actually initiate a charge? Not sure what words to look for in the charger specs to ensure that it will actually charge on those leads. Thanks.

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[GatorRiv]

OK... well I've read ALL of these comments and feedback. And I'm neither a mechanic nor an electrician. But I am still really not clear on the SOLUTION should I have a 12V battery failure. So let me ask a few questions, make a few comments, and hopefully get a few really clear answers:

1. It appears to me that there is NO SUCH THING as 'JUMP STARTING' a Rivian that has a 12V battery failure, at least by my 'JUMP START' definition (as the terminology seems to have always been used for ICE vehicles). In other words there is no reasonable way - via another vehicle's battery, a big high-end 'jump box', and certainly not via a small rechargeable jump box - to 'JUMP' start the Rivian... i.e. touch some wires and press a button and the car 'starts' and is back online and ready to drive (like with an ICE vehicle). Correct?

2. It appears that all the 'JUMP START' instructions are really about how to RECHARGE (over some variable period of of time) the Rivian 12V battery system. And, once the 12V battery reaches some minimal level of charge, then you MAY/WILL be able to use a key fob or phone or keycard to (a) open a door (b) open the frunk (c) open the HV charge port... although not necessarily immediately be able to drive the vehicle (I guess depending upon the HV battery SOC). Correct?

3. That 'RECHARGE' scenario can be performed - again, over a period of time - only with a power source that can maintain 30A for whatever the (variable, depending?) period of time is it takes to bring the 12V battery up to some minimal level.

4. And that 'RECHARGE' can be done via the rear 'battery ports' behind the panel near the trailer hitch? Correct? Although someone said the Rivian mobil tech said not to use that method? And even if that method CAN be used to RECHARGE (not 'JUMP') the 12V battery, it can only do that if the charger being used has some type of 'override' capability (unclear - what should I look for if purchasing a charger?) to detect (?) a 'no battery attached' situation (?). The other (apparently more acceptable per the mobil tech?) RECHARGE method is to get the frunk open (which would require the emergency frunk release accessed via tools and fasteners in the wheel well) so that you could connect directly to the 12V battery.

Do I have all this right? If so - if there is NO REAL JUMP START method to quickly start my EV... or maybe also no way to quickly access the interior or storage areas - well, that just sucks. I love my truck and just have to hope the 12V battery never fails. Yeah... right.
Please correct/clarify my thinking where possible. Thanks.

Thanks. I too would love a recommendation on a particular jump box so I can keep in frunk (and recover via manual frunk release if needed).

Does anyone have a tried and true way to get a totally dead truck up and running without a tow to a Service Center? IE drive it to the Service Center vs flatbed. I am particularly interested in this given I park for work in a horrendously difficult place for a tow.

 

[Dark-Fx]

So by 'complete jump', do you mean recharge? So if I want to hook up to a trickle charger, those rear leads will work fine? And can you clarify the 'override' a charger connected to those rear leads needs to have to actually initiate a charge? No sure what words to look for in the charger specs to ensure that it will actually charge on those leads. Thanks.

The jump leads in the rear of the vehicle have zero volts on them. Lots of jump packs have protection against accidental misuse that prevents them from activating if it does not detect a voltage. I can't make any specific recommendations beyond that.

 

[ekirkpatrick]

PhatDaddy questions all very relevant and hope someone can provide answers.

I called SC to ask if used jumper cables from ICE vehicle battery would this be sufficient to recharge Rivian 12v battery. "I think so." was answer. This not reassuring answer.

I have off roaded and camped in areas that have no cell service. Done this over 20 years in ICE vehicles. We always carried jumper cables and/or 'jump box' as back up plan.

Another concern that has been mentioned is you may get the warning "12V service needed". Well, I don't want to see that message when I'm 30 miles out in the boonies!

SC also confirmed that there is no way to check the health of the 12V batteries (my R1T has two) from the diagnostics screens. Gee, I remember on my Jeep Cherokee there was a 12v gauge that gave that status and if I saw low voltage I knew I needed to address it soon.

Thanks to all for info but this issue needs some better guidance from Rivian.

 

[KrakenLand425]

Hello all, I'm going to add a video link to this thread, that was made by the DCE gents who did that Optima branded Rivian battery remote charger trailer thingy (and test vehicle), and their rig finally experience the dead 12V syndrome. (Note: I have no affiliation with them, but found the video informative)



They approached their solution by making a accessory cable that plugged into the tailer hitch port, then pushed power from an external (Optima) battery, back into the Rivian, and they were able to get a slow turn on of power to the vehicle (how slow was not provided). Looks like their primary goal was to get the charging door open, to apply a Level 2 charger (or the one from their super cool $250K charging trailer!), but I'm guessing the frunk would also open, once enough power was recovered.

I have not got around to testing this system yet myself, as I have been fortunate to have no major issues with my R1S ownership yet (Damn I bet I just jinxed myself!) However, this trail hitch cable option may be an easy thing to make and keep handy, as those trailer cable are easy to get at auto or boat stores.

Also, I've been studying this 12V Li-Ion replacement issue, and did order a OhmMu battery, to have at the ready, should I decide to go through with the AGM to Lithium swap out. Verdict is still out on that, as I continue to read and assess (all of the great posts on the forums).. If I do get around to ether of those projects, I will be sure to share any positive or negative results. I have my 1st 7500 mile service coming up, so I've got some probing questions for my service manager poised and ready.

 

[Autolycus]

Hello all, I'm going to add a video link to this thread, that was made by the DCE gents who did that Optima branded Rivian battery remote charger trailer thingy (and test vehicle), and their rig finally experience the dead 12V syndrome. (Note: I have no affiliation with them, but found the video informative)



They approached their solution by making a accessory cable that plugged into the tailer hitch port, then pushed power from an external (Optima) battery, back into the Rivian, and they were able to get a slow turn on of power to the vehicle (how slow was not provided). Looks like their primary goal was to get the charging door open, to apply a Level 2 charger (or the one from their super cool $250K charging trailer!), but I'm guessing the frunk would also open, once enough power was recovered.

I have not got around to testing this system yet myself, as I have been fortunate to have no major issues with my R1S ownership yet (Damn I bet I just jinxed myself!) However, this trail hitch cable option may be an easy thing to make and keep handy, as those trailer cable are easy to get at auto or boat stores.

Also, I've been studying this 12V Li-Ion replacement issue, and did order a OhmMu battery, to have at the ready, should I decide to go through with the AGM to Lithium swap out. Verdict is still out on that, as I continue to read and assess (all of the great posts on the forums).. If I do get around to ether of those projects, I will be sure to share any positive or negative results. I have my 1st 7500 mile service coming up, so I've got some probing questions for my service manager poised and ready.

Did they not realize there's a pair of jumper cable connections directly to the right of the hitch behind that round plastic cover, making their trailer connector cable unnecessary?

 

[PhatDaddy]

Did they not realize there's a pair of jumper cable connections directly to the right of the hitch behind that round plastic cover, making their trailer connector cable unnecessary?

Yeah, hard to believe in the video they seem completely unaware of the ‘recharge cables’ behind that round plastic cover 6” away… seems like curiosity alone would have me pulling that cap to see what was behind it.

Related to this whole topic, what I am most keen to understand is how much juice do I need to pump in and for how long to those ‘recharge cables’ behind that hitch cap to allow me to open a door, the tailgate, the spare tire storage compartment, the frunk, and/or the charge port. Once I can get into some of those areas, it MAY make other options available (depending of course on my location at the time). But access to the charging port and the portable charger I keep in the frunk; or access to the vehicle interior and buttons/info on the screen when it comes up; or access to a trickle charger I could keep in the spare tire compartment… any of those might make a big difference. I have come up with an idea for a way to make a small rechargeable ‘jump box’ accessible to me on the EXTERIOR of the vehicle even with all those other areas inaccessible. But most jump boxes (as opposed to trickle chargers) seem to be designed to send one or two big surges to a dead battery to allow it to turn over an ICE engine once or twice to get it started. Those short surges would not seem to be too helpful with our EVs. So I’m not thinking any of the typical rechargeable (smaller) jump boxes really get me anything in our dead 12V battery scenario if I have to send 30 amps down those cables for 30 minutes, etc. I am mostly trying to avoid having to resort to fender liner work just to get into the vehicle at all.
Other ideas and feedback welcomed.

 

[KrakenLand425]

Did they not realize there's a pair of jumper cable connections directly to the right of the hitch behind that round plastic cover, making their trailer connector cable unnecessary?

I just provided as “additional information for interested parties.” I do not endorse or suggest this is a viable method. In addition, I am vaguely familiar with the basic premise of YouTube videos and I would guess that the “comments section” for this video would have a slew a of both positive and negative opinions posted there. At this juncture I have not go down that rabbit hole yet. If you find out anything useful, report back!

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