Stripped TP55 Bolt - how to extract?

[jn bot]

Hi, I’m sorry. Is that whole round thing on the bottom the bolt or did something screw into the hole? That’s now recessed

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[nyu1]

Hi, I’m sorry. Is that whole round thing on the bottom the bolt or did something screw into the hole? That’s now recessed

The whole round thing is the bolt. The center is stripped.

 

[Miketz]

The whole round thing is the bolt. The center is stripped.

Worked on Gas Turbines for many years and had to deal with stripped bolts often. Clean the damaged bolt well and Epoxy a one size smaller bit and let it cure overnight. I found it helps to score the entire surface of the bolt and cover it with the epoxy. It should look like a monkey's first day on the job but we had very good success with it.

 

[Dirt.boy]

Do you have enough height to try a hand impact driver? With the foil or epoxy suggestions above would be good to try.

 

[eRacer]

Last ditch effort it to use a small die grinder with a cut off disc attachment to notch a slotted or a cross pattern onto the head of the bolt. Then use a manual impact screwdriver to "convince" the bolt to leave.

Of course, you would need to replace the bolt.

 

[SkiDoc]

Try grinding flat edges on either side and using a wrench? It's not recessed. Probably more torque than bolt extractors. Another method is to drill a hole in the center, just the size of the T55 and hammer the bit in deeper. This worked when I sheared off 3 of 4 recessed bolts.

 

[HaveBlue]

An extactor might work. Just compare the bolt thickness for sizing a drill bit so you don't get into the threads. Wear safety glasses when drilling upside down.
If that doesn't work, I'd plug weld a large nut to it.

Slotting it with a die grinder will weaken the head to the point where it might break off and then you'll be trying to get the threaded part out. Might go easy then or might be really stuck.

There isn't much meat on the sides if you flat cut the head and then try to get a crescent wrench on it.

 

[usulio]

OP, I'm going to need a video montage of you trying all of these methods in a row

 

[Nixapatfan]

On mine some of those bolts had thread locker and some didn't so heat may help but you risk damaging the painted surfaces.

Try a regular T55 bit with a long breaker bar and apply pressure on the head while turning.

I find using shorter bars/wrenches cause more bolt stripping due to inadvertently tilting the wrench while applying force.

 

[HaveBlue]

Keep in mind that the T55Plus is a slightly different shape than a T55. I've had differential plugs that have allen/hex strip. It's annoying as the tool isn't proximate to the size of the fastener.

 

[Zoidz]

Try grinding flat edges on either side and using a wrench? It's not recessed. Probably more torque than bolt extractors. Another method is to drill a hole in the center, just the size of the T55 and hammer the bit in deeper. This worked when I sheared off 3 of 4 recessed bolts.

I've done this on similar problems and it worked. Also, an apparent benefit is that with this type of bolt, it should reduce the resistance a bit since removing some of the "flange" would reduce the surface contact area.

 

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Can you make this a poll? Maybe start taking bets what method works? OP, please let us know what works. I think we're all in it for the suspense, now!

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

Can you make this a poll? Maybe start taking bets what method works? OP, please let us know what works. I think we're all in it for the suspense, now!

I will donate a NWT Rivian cap to the winner.

 

[nyu1]

Well, quick update: the bolt extractor arrived, but I’m waiting on the replacement bolt to be delivered this Saturday before getting to work. (Not sure if it’s a good idea driving with a missing bolt or if the Megawatt sliders would be secured enough with only 4 of the 5 TP55 bolts to secure it). So far angle grinding a slot and using a flathead didn’t work. I also tried the foil method which—- I’m not sure I did correctly, but I just ended up with bits of foil all over the floor.
I also realized I used a torque wrench to remove the bolts which probably contributed to the stripping of the last bolt.(I know, stupid me). I have a 40in breaker bar coming as well. If neither of those methods work.. I’m gonna just have my friend weld a nut to the bolt at his shop and go that route. I’d have to disconnect the battery though right? That would mean removing a seat?—- seems like a massive PITA.

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

Well, quick update: the bolt extractor arrived, but I’m waiting on the replacement bolt to be delivered this Saturday before getting to work. (Not sure if it’s a good idea driving with a missing bolt or if the Megawatt sliders would be secured enough with only 4 of the 5 TP55 bolts to secure it). So far angle grinding a slot and using a flathead didn’t work. I also tried the foil method which—- I’m not sure I did correctly, but I just ended up with bits of foil all over the floor.
I also realized I used a torque wrench to remove the bolts which probably contributed to the stripping of the last bolt.(I know, stupid me). I have a 40in breaker bar coming as well. If neither of those methods work.. I’m gonna just have my friend weld a nut to the bolt at his shop and go that route. I’d have to disconnect the battery though right? That would mean removing a seat?—- seems like a massive PITA.

I would try heat and extractor first. To administer heat, you can probably prop a soldering gun/pencil to the bolt head and leave it like that for several minutes. The idea is to soften any thread locking compound that might be on the threads. Once that's softened, you wouldn't have to work as hard with the extractor. If that doesn't work, I'd try the epoxy / JB Weld method previously mentioned. I'd leave welding as last resort, by a shop or an experienced mechanic/welder.

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