Truck bricked due to 12v battery

[TAZ]

tailgate locks, and the tonneau cover is electric.

i guess you could keep the cover retracted.

Good points! Guess they just need to fix the issue since its really concerning when going camping! I know the e-trons had a similar issue.

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[Craigins]

i mean i half joked in the other thread. You could get a 12v battery conditioner and plug it into the outlet in the bed to try to see if it will maintain the 12v lol.

just depends if the 120v is run off the 400v battery or the 12v system. would also keep the 120v outlets active which will draw down the battery on top of that.

 

[aw113sgte]

Supposedly mobile service will be here tomorrow morning to see what they can do. They will be bringing new 12V batteries.

 

[aw113sgte]

Tech came out and replaced the 12V batteries and cleared error codes. Truck is back in my garage.
Things of note:
1. Tech said this is a common thing, happening since the 2022.15 update.
2. Said they haven't heard of it happening a second time to any trucks.
3. If the frunk tub is out, the truck will go into turtle mode.
4. The batteries are NOT in parallel and you have to put a charger on each one separately.
5. There are standard fuse panels inside the driver and passenger side footwells. - I did not see them personally.
6. When this error happens, a tech has to clear the codes on site. It cannot be done remotely at this time as the main pack reports a critical error and they need to verify there isn't a safety concern.
7. All seats, steering wheel, windows needed to go through a recalibration process.
8. The wires in the rear bumper do not directly connect to the batteries, they go through a controller. What they did allow me to do was get enough power to open the truck to get my stuff out.
9. Sounds like if the 12V doesn't totally die, you may be able to charge them up manually. If they totally die, you're boned and will need the system reset.

 

[Gshenderson]

Tech came out and replaced the 12V batteries and cleared error codes. Truck is back in my garage.
Things of note:
1. Tech said this is a common thing, happening since the 2022.15 update.
2. Said they haven't heard of it happening a second time to any trucks.
3. If the frunk tub is out, the truck will go into turtle mode.
4. The batteries are NOT in parallel and you have to put a charger on each one separately.
5. There are standard fuse panels inside the driver and passenger side footwells. - I did not see them personally.
6. When this error happens, a tech has to clear the codes on site. It cannot be done remotely at this time as the main pack reports a critical error and they need to verify there isn't a safety concern.
7. All seats, steering wheel, windows needed to go through a recalibration process.
8. The wires in the rear bumper do not directly connect to the batteries, they go through a controller. What they did allow me to do was get enough power to open the truck to get my stuff out.
9. Sounds like if the 12V doesn't totally die, you may be able to charge them up manually. If they totally die, you're boned and will need the system reset.

This must be costing them a fortune to remediate. Hopefully that puts it at the top of the list for things that need immediate root cause analysis and fix. It’s my #1 concern with the truck right now. I wish there was an easy way to connect a trickle charger to it.

 

[NY_Rob]

Just another case for switching to Lithium 12V batts... They will always run through a BMS/Controller and simply disconnect at a specified low voltage threshold protecting themselves from further discharge and cell damage. A literal 60 second connection to a 12-14 volt source would probably be all that's needed to bring them above the "under voltage" threshold and allow the system to boot again with zero harm done due to over discharge.

Tesla is now using Lithium batts for their 12V systems in the Model 3 and Model Y. They are 1/3rd the weight of the old lead acid batts and truly "no-maintenance". Even the battery brackets have been redesigned/reduced in size and complexity due to the much lighter Lithium batteries.

 

[kneebuster]

I knew about that. I'm not an EDC kind of guy, but I guess a simple solution would be to stash a screwdriver (looks to be a Torx bit, need to check size) in the hitch receiver to be able to access the frunk release. Thanks.

Feels weird quoting my self, but...
Right after I made that post I went out to my truck and tried to access the cable. I reached in about a foot, but couldn't find it (did find an electrical harness though).
Today I had a mobile tech out at my house and asked him about it. He removed the necessary screws and reached in past his elbow to get the cable release. It's up past 2 cooling lines. It's not easy to get to, and worth knowing this if and when the time comes you need it.
He also mentioned that the battery drain problem was definitely a problem in the 11 and 15 updates, but is fixed in 19.

 

[kizamybute']

My truck just bricked. Apparently a 12V issue. have had a charger on the rear wires for 2 hours and still nothing. I don't have jumper cables unfortunately.

Quite annoying that we have these massive batteries and so much still relies on old-fashioned 12V batteries.

Can't believe there's not a simple way to get into the truck if the 12V battery dies. I have my wallet and other stuff in there that I need and can't get to. Truck sat for a day. Last update was several weeks ago. Drove it day before yesterday and everything was fine. Went to go somewhere and was stranded. Waiting for service to call in the AM

 

[rivian_germany]

My truck just bricked. Apparently a 12V issue. have had a charger on the rear wires for 2 hours and still nothing. I don't have jumper cables unfortunately.

Quite annoying that we have these massive batteries and so much still relies on old-fashioned 12V batteries.

Can't believe there's not a simple way to get into the truck if the 12V battery dies. I have my wallet and other stuff in there that I need and can't get to. Truck sat for a day. Last update was several weeks ago. Drove it day before yesterday and everything was fine. Went to go somewhere and was stranded. Waiting for service to call in the AM

Have you manually opened the hood using the manual release cord? You need a screwdriver to remove a panel under the left front tire. If you do that, and you have another car battery you could remove, find some thick gauge wires, connect them up to the terminals... Or I suppose you could connect a spare battery to the rear jump points. Following

 

[aw113sgte]

Connect a battery or other 12v source to the jump leads, this gives power to be able to open hood and doors on left side. The jump wires go through a controller so a smart charger or jump pack don't work.

 

[kizamybute']

Rather than updating two different threads, can follow the other thread that started off for key fobs, but transitioned into the truck bricking.....

www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/finally-getting-lost-key-fob-replaced-after-2-months-update-truck-bricked.11390/page-2

 

[LeoH]

I am getting more worried by the day about getting the R1S in the summer, and honestly I just put in a reservation for the Volvo XE90 ( Mercedes SUV is cool, but the wife will not approve the price tag with the option I want )

I really hope things get better within 6 months because I really want the R1S!

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