SkyFall
Member
Could you share the straps your using.Awesome! Likely just going to trade my 95DZ in for one of these.
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Could you share the straps your using.Awesome! Likely just going to trade my 95DZ in for one of these.
Curious about this one since they're on sale - does it fit in the gear tunnel? And for @SkyFall , are those the Dometic straps?Picked up a Dometic CFX3 35. Fits okay but doesn't want to sit flat. But I think this amount of angle is fine.
I can reach in over the side of the bed to get in it. Can't do that for the fridge in the Hummer at all.
Didn't even bother trying to fit it in the frunk. I'm sure it won't fit.
Might be able to save you some time... my calibration is pretty approximate, but it says "no" lolI don't think so, but I'll give it a try tonight.
It might physically fit inside the gear tunnel, but you can't actually get it in there.Might be able to save you some time... my calibration is pretty approximate, but it says "no" lol
I can see why they made the seats hinge at the front - the rear door opening angle is small, flipping the seat bottoms up instead of forward would make access harder.This one of my biggest disappointments with my R1T. I was very bummed when I lifted the false bottom and and saw that hump there. That hump is for the cooling fan for the batteries. If that hump was a few more inches down my ARB would fit. To me a fridge is more important than an inductive stove in a adventure vehicle. I don't want to go back to hotdog water in a cooler. Heck, for that matter, even a decent cooler won't fit in the frunk or in the bed with the cover on.
Looks like the fridge will go in the back seat for now. I would prefer the rear seat tilt up from the front edge instead of the back. It would be easier to make a mount for the fridge. Lack of a 12V in the bed and the cab is an oversight too. I guess I can pull 12V from the tunnel for the cab, but it is not optimal.
There is 12V in the cab.This one of my biggest disappointments with my R1T. I was very bummed when I lifted the false bottom and and saw that hump there. That hump is for the cooling fan for the batteries. If that hump was a few more inches down my ARB would fit. To me a fridge is more important than an inductive stove in a adventure vehicle. I don't want to go back to hotdog water in a cooler. Heck, for that matter, even a decent cooler won't fit in the frunk or in the bed with the cover on.
Looks like the fridge will go in the back seat for now. I would prefer the rear seat tilt up from the front edge instead of the back. It would be easier to make a mount for the fridge. Lack of a 12V in the bed and the cab is an oversight too. I guess I can pull 12V from the tunnel for the cab, but it is not optimal.
Thanks. I couldn't find it. It is up under the front main display. There is also a 110V in the rear cab. I had to look closely to find it. I was looking for an access cover and I almost started to pull the 110V receptacle out.There is 12V in the cab.
Right. I have a small (1kWh) battery in the bed to power the fridge. The battery charges off the vehicle, then the vehicle can be completely off and the battery powers the fridge for 12+ hrs. So there's an advantage, but it still takes up a bit of space. A simple 12V outlet (weatherproof with a locking mechanism) seems like a simple high value feature.The Dometic 35 fits under the tonneau with a mere few mm to spare. I was excited to discover that.
One thing that does bum me out is the lack of 12V in the truck bed. I have to run the inverter to power the fridge, only for the fridge to then rectify the 120V back to 12V...sorta silly.
A 1kwh 12V battery, or 120VAC inverter/battery ?Right. I have a small (1kWh) battery in the bed to power the fridge. The battery charges off the vehicle, then the vehicle can be completely off and the battery powers the fridge for 12+ hrs. So there's an advantage, but it still takes up a bit of space. A simple 12V outlet (weatherproof with a locking mechanism) seems like a simple high value feature.
What kind of fridge do you have that's pulling down a 1kwh battery on 12v in only 12 hours??? That's an average draw of about 83 watts. Mine averages around 10-12w on 12v (Dometic) and the peak draw when getting it to temp from ambient is only 50 watts.......Right. I have a small (1kWh) battery in the bed to power the fridge. The battery charges off the vehicle, then the vehicle can be completely off and the battery powers the fridge for 12+ hrs. So there's an advantage, but it still takes up a bit of space. A simple 12V outlet (weatherproof with a locking mechanism) seems like a simple high value feature.
I think there is a soft pass thru from the gear tunnel- pull the front bed cover liner (8 bolts) and you’ll see a water sealed hole that might serve as a 12v pass thru.The Dometic 35 fits under the tonneau with a mere few mm to spare. I was excited to discover that.
One thing that does bum me out is the lack of 12V in the truck bed. I have to run the inverter to power the fridge, only for the fridge to then rectify the 120V back to 12V...sorta silly.
Also, this was discussed in some other thread, but Rivian is not alone in not having 12v in the bed. There isn't a production truck in existence with one, not even the Fords which have every other power supply known to man back there. They are common in the back of SUV's, but for whatever reason (cost/logistics) no one runs them to a truck bed.Right. I have a small (1kWh) battery in the bed to power the fridge. The battery charges off the vehicle, then the vehicle can be completely off and the battery powers the fridge for 12+ hrs. So there's an advantage, but it still takes up a bit of space. A simple 12V outlet (weatherproof with a locking mechanism) seems like a simple high value feature.