NEW - RIVIPARTS Cell Phone Ball Mount PRO

[NY_Rob]

@RWerksman Any chance we can get a modified 17mm model developed to move the ball mount 2” higher up so those using a MagSafe pad/iPhone can see the screen above the steering wheel?

By doing that, you might have to add a lower flat that presses up against and hangs over the dash surface under the mounting channel to stop the mount from twisting down?

Sponsored

 

[lawmangm]

Anyone know how to uninstall? They say it’s “easy” on the description.

 

[SilverGhost]

Another modification for those not wanting a ball mount and just needing a magnetic mount.

 

[Yellow Buddy]

Be warned though - 3D printing is REALLY finicky. I've rebuilt carburetors and I find dialing in 3D printers more difficult than that. PLA is the easiest material to print with, but it's unsuitable for anything but general household prints. PETG or ABS are much more durable, but the former is notoriously difficult to dial in and the later emits noxious gasses when printing with it.

TLDR: The MOST expensive phone holder I have every bought.

(But you really should read it)

$13.50 for a ball mount is absurd. It doesn't even have the magnets to secure the phone, nor the charger. You can buy a questionable one on Amazon from a questionable seller that does include these for about the same price. Assuming it was even available of course.

Look, I understand @RWerksman is probably making...well nothing on these. The shipping is likely $5, the filament is probably $20/roll, the electricity to run the printer, and of course the printer itself. So maybe not nothing, I have it estimated at roughly $0.50/piece. Nonetheless, I wasn't paying the $13.50 and I was determined to save the $0.50 in profit and make it myself.

First step was a procuring a 3D Printer. I've heard about these things. Read absolutely nothing, know absolutely nothing, and 100% expect it to work exactly like a replicator from Star Trek.

"Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black"

I did what any unreasonable person would do, I searched eBay and Facebook marketplace for the cheapest one I could find. That ended up being an unbranded, highly modified, 8 year old 3D printer for $75, and that included 6 rolls of filament. After finding out I knew less than nothing about 3D printing, the seller refused to sell it to me. After pestering him, he told me something along the lines of "Dude, no thanks. You should read up on it so you don't hurt yourself"

I was annoyed, how could he turn down my money? If I wanted to burn myself while poking at a 3D printer like a monkey, it was within my rights to do so. Unfortunately I didn't have any other cheap printers so I figured I'd at least spend 15 minutes googling "safe 3D printers" which led me to the FlashForge printers. I didn't make it very far, didn't even click a link because I saw multiple links that said FlashForge printers are used in schools. They use them in elementary schools, PERFECT! I don't think I saw "elementary" but I convinced myself I did and figured an 8 year old can use, it couldn't take me more than two to three weeks to pick it up.

Step 1, complete. $175 later I found myself a FlashForge Creator 2 Pro. There's a bunch of fancy things I don't understand, but it's got a box so I don't hurt myself and it was used. Meaning I didn't have to assemble it. I'd have no clue how to do that.

So then I went onto amazon and searched for "3D Printer Filament" and ordered the cheapest roll I could find. $7 on sale. I went back to the jerk who tried to keep me from hurting myself and told him of my score. Hey informed me PLA wasn't good if I was going to print car parts and told me I should at least be using PETG or ABS. He also asked why if I can afford a Rivian am I going through all this trouble. I informed him of my mission to stick it to @RWerksman .

Step 2 was finally complete when 1 roll of PETG @$18 and 1 roll of ABS $12 came in.

Step 3, setup. I skipped this step. The manual said calibration. The Facebook guy said calibration. I said - its used. The person before me surely calibrated it...right???

Step 4, I hacked into @RWerksman's publicly available thingiverse listings and downloaded every single file he had up there. SCORE.

Step 5, I copied the file. Popped on a SD card and put it into the printer and said out loud
"Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". My wife gave me a weird look as the printer did nothing. I went back onto Facebook...the guy asks me why I keep bothering him. I offered to let him drive my Rivian if he helped me with this. He told me he was too young to drive so I told him I'd print him a 3D printed Rivian instead. He told me I needed to "Slice it" and walked me through it.

As we went through it, he told me to print a test. I told him, I've got this. I set it up to print at the finest resolution, taking the most materials and time to complete and transferred it to the printer. Step 5 - Complete.

Step 6 - "Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". It started printing. I brought my kids over to marvel at what their father has done. To marvel at my ability to create something out of nothing - all by myself. They got bored after roughly 2 minutes, but they checked in on me every so often to ask "Is it done yet?"

4 hours later and 6 simple steps, it was done! And man was it a mess. Straight into the trash it went.

Turns out maybe I should have done a quicker test copy. I also seemed to have printed the wrong file as this one doesn't fit....back to the drawing board.

Step 7 - Downloaded the Riviaparts 17mm PRO file. Sliced it, copied it. This time I did a quick print - 1 hour, to test it. That seemed like the most reasonable thing to do. Back into the printer. "Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". My family left me and went out for dinner. The print came out well and looks just like the real thing.

Sure I spent over $200 in supplies, but I saved myself $13.50. It looks great, works great, and most importantly. I did it all by myself.

Step 8 - Having been satisfied at my own accomplishments, I decided to try a redesign to have it higher up. It turned out ok, but ended up rubbing against the trim. So back to the deign board. I repeated this 3x to get the spacing right. When I finally did, my kids unplugged my machine 5 hours and 45 minutes into a 6 hour print. This stuff is much harder than it looks.

On a serious note. This post is long because I know it's easy to look at some of these and it seems simple to print it. But the costs add up and it takes a good amount of time to figure it out - and I didn't even design/engineer the thing. I used an existing file. While I enjoyed this, the hours that likely went into this is being given to the Rivian community essentially free of cost and I wanted to acknowledge that.

@RWerksman, thank you for giving me an excuse to buy a 3D printer. I have been wanting one for years. These are well designed and extremely reasonable in terms of pricing. It's a great help to the Rivian community.

Also, I went and modified the design a little bit so it stands up a tad more. I still have to upload the remix to thingiverse but basically it's a -25 degree pitch on the mount and a thicker base to prevent wobbling.

 

[WattTruckMatt]

TLDR: The MOST expensive phone holder I have every bought.

(But you really should read it)

$13.50 for a ball mount is absurd. It doesn't even have the magnets to secure the phone, nor the charger. You can buy a questionable one on Amazon from a questionable seller that does include these for about the same price. Assuming it was even available of course.

Look, I understand @RWerksman is probably making...well nothing on these. The shipping is likely $5, the filament is probably $20/roll, the electricity to run the printer, and of course the printer itself. So maybe not nothing, I have it estimated at roughly $0.50/piece. Nonetheless, I wasn't paying the $13.50 and I was determined to save the $0.50 in profit and make it myself.

First step was a procuring a 3D Printer. I've heard about these things. Read absolutely nothing, know absolutely nothing, and 100% expect it to work exactly like a replicator from Star Trek.

"Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black"

I did what any unreasonable person would do, I searched eBay and Facebook marketplace for the cheapest one I could find. That ended up being an unbranded, highly modified, 8 year old 3D printer for $75, and that included 6 rolls of filament. After finding out I knew less than nothing about 3D printing, the seller refused to sell it to me. After pestering him, he told me something along the lines of "Dude, no thanks. You should read up on it so you don't hurt yourself"

I was annoyed, how could he turn down my money? If I wanted to burn myself while poking at a 3D printer like a monkey, it was within my rights to do so. Unfortunately I didn't have any other cheap printers so I figured I'd at least spend 15 minutes googling "safe 3D printers" which led me to the FlashForge printers. I didn't make it very far, didn't even click a link because I saw multiple links that said FlashForge printers are used in schools. They use them in elementary schools, PERFECT! I don't think I saw "elementary" but I convinced myself I did and figured an 8 year old can use, it couldn't take me more than two to three weeks to pick it up.

Step 1, complete. $175 later I found myself a FlashForge Creator 2 Pro. There's a bunch of fancy things I don't understand, but it's got a box so I don't hurt myself and it was used. Meaning I didn't have to assemble it. I'd have no clue how to do that.

So then I went onto amazon and searched for "3D Printer Filament" and ordered the cheapest roll I could find. $7 on sale. I went back to the jerk who tried to keep me from hurting myself and told him of my score. Hey informed me PLA wasn't good if I was going to print car parts and told me I should at least be using PETG or ABS. He also asked why if I can afford a Rivian am I going through all this trouble. I informed him of my mission to stick it to @RWerksman .

Step 2 was finally complete when 1 roll of PETG @$18 and 1 roll of ABS $12 came in.

Step 3, setup. I skipped this step. The manual said calibration. The Facebook guy said calibration. I said - its used. The person before me surely calibrated it...right???

Step 4, I hacked into @RWerksman's publicly available thingiverse listings and downloaded every single file he had up there. SCORE.

Step 5, I copied the file. Popped on a SD card and put it into the printer and said out loud
"Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". My wife gave me a weird look as the printer did nothing. I went back onto Facebook...the guy asks me why I keep bothering him. I offered to let him drive my Rivian if he helped me with this. He told me he was too young to drive so I told him I'd print him a 3D printed Rivian instead. He told me I needed to "Slice it" and walked me through it.

As we went through it, he told me to print a test. I told him, I've got this. I set it up to print at the finest resolution, taking the most materials and time to complete and transferred it to the printer. Step 5 - Complete.

Step 6 - "Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". It started printing. I brought my kids over to marvel at what their father has done. To marvel at my ability to create something out of nothing - all by myself. They got bored after roughly 2 minutes, but they checked in on me every so often to ask "Is it done yet?"

4 hours later and 6 simple steps, it was done! And man was it a mess. Straight into the trash it went.

Turns out maybe I should have done a quicker test copy. I also seemed to have printed the wrong file as this one doesn't fit....back to the drawing board.

Step 7 - Downloaded the Riviaparts 17mm PRO file. Sliced it, copied it. This time I did a quick print - 1 hour, to test it. That seemed like the most reasonable thing to do. Back into the printer. "Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". My family left me and went out for dinner. The print came out well and looks just like the real thing.

Sure I spent over $200 in supplies, but I saved myself $13.50. It looks great, works great, and most importantly. I did it all by myself.

Step 8 - Having been satisfied at my own accomplishments, I decided to try a redesign to have it higher up. It turned out ok, but ended up rubbing against the trim. So back to the deign board. I repeated this 3x to get the spacing right. When I finally did, my kids unplugged my machine 5 hours and 45 minutes into a 6 hour print. This stuff is much harder than it looks.

On a serious note. This post is long because I know it's easy to look at some of these and it seems simple to print it. But the costs add up and it takes a good amount of time to figure it out - and I didn't even design/engineer the thing. I used an existing file. While I enjoyed this, the hours that likely went into this is being given to the Rivian community essentially free of cost and I wanted to acknowledge that.

@RWerksman, thank you for giving me an excuse to buy a 3D printer. I have been wanting one for years. These are well designed and extremely reasonable in terms of pricing. It's a great help to the Rivian community.

Also, I went and modified the design a little bit so it stands up a tad more. I still have to upload the remix to thingiverse but basically it's a -25 degree pitch on the mount and a thicker base to prevent wobbling.

My kind of DIY tinkerer. I've literally been thinking of buying a 3D printer and use this project as a way to learn how to use it. Nice work. Can't wait for someone to sell a version like this or provide files to get it printed w/ the correct material list. I tried using ABS w/ 60% fill and it snapped as soon as I tried putting any pressure on it. I know nothing about this stuff.

 

[Yellow Buddy]

My kind of DIY tinkerer. I've literally been thinking of buying a 3D printer and use this project as a way to learn how to use it. Nice work. Can't wait for someone to sell a version like this or provide files to get it printed w/ the correct material list. I tried using ABS w/ 60% fill and it snapped as soon as I tried putting any pressure on it. I know nothing about this stuff.

I had better luck with PETG than I did with ABS, I had the same issues with it snapping.

With PETG, I used the mostly default settings in FlashPrint. 0.12 layer height, 0.20 first layer. 80C bed, 235C extruder.

The “pole” is 3.25” long from the base, 1/2 thick, -25 roll.

I’m doing another one tonight. When I get happy with it I’ll post it up. I won’t be selling it but will share where I land.

 

[RWerksman]

@RWerksman Any chance we can get a modified 17mm model developed to move the ball mount 2” higher up so those using a MagSafe pad/iPhone can see the screen above the steering wheel?

I have loaded the model into Fusion 360, but the learning curve is steep, so I'm reaching out instead. Basically and a rectangular solid on top of the cross member so you can ungroup and slide the ball and stem up 2" onto this newly added solid rectangular support.

Many Thanks!

Probably not, unfortunately. This is mainly due to torsional strain. With any phone mount you're going to have a load on it. With these the main load is pressing up and down (gravity and bumps) and the secondary load is front to rear of the vehicle (acceleration and deceleration). I've engineered the mount to be printed to so the strongest part of the print are on these axises. I say that because there is a weak part of the print - along where the layers meet.

If I extend it up, the strain then starts pulling against the layers of the mount. The likelihood of it snapping off is much higher. I've experimented with this a bit and I haven't been able to come up with a good solution.

My recommendation is for folks to snag the $6, shipped extension arm here instead: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394024145564

Anyone know how to uninstall? They say it’s “easy” on the description.

Just slide your flinger in between the tab on the side of the side of the screen and pry toward the drivers door. The gif that I posted earlier was probably the fifth time I installed that mount, which is out of the batch production order.

Another modification for those not wanting a ball mount and just needing a magnetic mount.

I love this, my dude! This what I hoped to see when I posted them.

I just asked that everybody please respect the creative Commons license that I attached to the freely downloadable model. It encourages personal printing and remixing, but requires attribution and denies commercial use. You can read more about it here: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/

TLDR: The MOST expensive phone holder I have every bought.

(But you really should read it)

$13.50 for a ball mount is absurd. It doesn't even have the magnets to secure the phone, nor the charger. You can buy a questionable one on Amazon from a questionable seller that does include these for about the same price. Assuming it was even available of course.

Look, I understand @RWerksman is probably making...well nothing on these. The shipping is likely $5, the filament is probably $20/roll, the electricity to run the printer, and of course the printer itself. So maybe not nothing, I have it estimated at roughly $0.50/piece. Nonetheless, I wasn't paying the $13.50 and I was determined to save the $0.50 in profit and make it myself.

First step was a procuring a 3D Printer. I've heard about these things. Read absolutely nothing, know absolutely nothing, and 100% expect it to work exactly like a replicator from Star Trek.

"Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black"

I did what any unreasonable person would do, I searched eBay and Facebook marketplace for the cheapest one I could find. That ended up being an unbranded, highly modified, 8 year old 3D printer for $75, and that included 6 rolls of filament. After finding out I knew less than nothing about 3D printing, the seller refused to sell it to me. After pestering him, he told me something along the lines of "Dude, no thanks. You should read up on it so you don't hurt yourself"

I was annoyed, how could he turn down my money? If I wanted to burn myself while poking at a 3D printer like a monkey, it was within my rights to do so. Unfortunately I didn't have any other cheap printers so I figured I'd at least spend 15 minutes googling "safe 3D printers" which led me to the FlashForge printers. I didn't make it very far, didn't even click a link because I saw multiple links that said FlashForge printers are used in schools. They use them in elementary schools, PERFECT! I don't think I saw "elementary" but I convinced myself I did and figured an 8 year old can use, it couldn't take me more than two to three weeks to pick it up.

Step 1, complete. $175 later I found myself a FlashForge Creator 2 Pro. There's a bunch of fancy things I don't understand, but it's got a box so I don't hurt myself and it was used. Meaning I didn't have to assemble it. I'd have no clue how to do that.

So then I went onto amazon and searched for "3D Printer Filament" and ordered the cheapest roll I could find. $7 on sale. I went back to the jerk who tried to keep me from hurting myself and told him of my score. Hey informed me PLA wasn't good if I was going to print car parts and told me I should at least be using PETG or ABS. He also asked why if I can afford a Rivian am I going through all this trouble. I informed him of my mission to stick it to @RWerksman .

Step 2 was finally complete when 1 roll of PETG @$18 and 1 roll of ABS $12 came in.

Step 3, setup. I skipped this step. The manual said calibration. The Facebook guy said calibration. I said - its used. The person before me surely calibrated it...right???

Step 4, I hacked into @RWerksman's publicly available thingiverse listings and downloaded every single file he had up there. SCORE.

Step 5, I copied the file. Popped on a SD card and put it into the printer and said out loud
"Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". My wife gave me a weird look as the printer did nothing. I went back onto Facebook...the guy asks me why I keep bothering him. I offered to let him drive my Rivian if he helped me with this. He told me he was too young to drive so I told him I'd print him a 3D printed Rivian instead. He told me I needed to "Slice it" and walked me through it.

As we went through it, he told me to print a test. I told him, I've got this. I set it up to print at the finest resolution, taking the most materials and time to complete and transferred it to the printer. Step 5 - Complete.

Step 6 - "Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". It started printing. I brought my kids over to marvel at what their father has done. To marvel at my ability to create something out of nothing - all by myself. They got bored after roughly 2 minutes, but they checked in on me every so often to ask "Is it done yet?"

4 hours later and 6 simple steps, it was done! And man was it a mess. Straight into the trash it went.

Turns out maybe I should have done a quicker test copy. I also seemed to have printed the wrong file as this one doesn't fit....back to the drawing board.

Step 7 - Downloaded the Riviaparts 17mm PRO file. Sliced it, copied it. This time I did a quick print - 1 hour, to test it. That seemed like the most reasonable thing to do. Back into the printer. "Computer, 1 Riviparts phone holder - black". My family left me and went out for dinner. The print came out well and looks just like the real thing.

Sure I spent over $200 in supplies, but I saved myself $13.50. It looks great, works great, and most importantly. I did it all by myself.

Step 8 - Having been satisfied at my own accomplishments, I decided to try a redesign to have it higher up. It turned out ok, but ended up rubbing against the trim. So back to the deign board. I repeated this 3x to get the spacing right. When I finally did, my kids unplugged my machine 5 hours and 45 minutes into a 6 hour print. This stuff is much harder than it looks.

On a serious note. This post is long because I know it's easy to look at some of these and it seems simple to print it. But the costs add up and it takes a good amount of time to figure it out - and I didn't even design/engineer the thing. I used an existing file. While I enjoyed this, the hours that likely went into this is being given to the Rivian community essentially free of cost and I wanted to acknowledge that.

@RWerksman, thank you for giving me an excuse to buy a 3D printer. I have been wanting one for years. These are well designed and extremely reasonable in terms of pricing. It's a great help to the Rivian community.

Also, I went and modified the design a little bit so it stands up a tad more. I still have to upload the remix to thingiverse but basically it's a -25 degree pitch on the mount and a thicker base to prevent wobbling.

Holy moly what a ride this post is! Just a few quick things:

First, I agree with you on the pricing. Unfortunately, due to the low quantities were talking about here, they need to be 3D printed. If we were talking thousands of units I would be producing them via injection molding instead of 3D printing. Also, every one of them is printed in the USA instead of a cheaper part of the world like China.

Second, please be careful when printing via ABS. It puts off toxic fumes while printing, my dude. PLA loses rigidity at too low of a temperature, so these are printed in PETG. I'd suggest that is what you should use. To be fair though, it is somewhat difficult to print with as it's finicky on exact temperature and somewhat hydrophobic. (it absorbs water from the air and prints worse because of it)

Third, as described a bit earlier in this post, you'll likely have some breakage on your print due to how poorly 3D printing holds up against torsional strain. I'd suspect it will snap off at the bottom of the pole. I hope I'm wrong because getting one's pole snapped off is terrible. (or so I'm told)

 

[RivianXpress]

Quadlock Mag wireless charging head now installed with the Riviparts 1" RAM ball and double socket arm. The beauty is I can use the Mag head in the Rivian and the tradition Quadlock on my motorcycles. Location of the phone is prefect with the 3.75" RAM arm.

 

[RWerksman]

My kind of DIY tinkerer. I've literally been thinking of buying a 3D printer and use this project as a way to learn how to use it. Nice work. Can't wait for someone to sell a version like this or provide files to get it printed w/ the correct material list. I tried using ABS w/ 60% fill and it snapped as soon as I tried putting any pressure on it. I know nothing about this stuff.

PETG with 20% infill. Grid works, but honeycomb is just slight better I believe.

 

[jebinc]

Probably not, unfortunately. This is mainly due to torsional strain. With any phone mount you're going to have a load on it. With these the main load is pressing up and down (gravity and bumps) and the secondary load is front to rear of the vehicle (acceleration and deceleration). I've engineered the mount to be printed to so the strongest part of the print are on these axises. I say that because there is a weak part of the print - along where the layers meet.

If I extend it up, the strain then starts pulling against the layers of the mount. The likelihood of it snapping off is much higher. I've experimented with this a bit and I haven't been able to come up with a good solution.

My recommendation is for folks to snag the $6, shipped extension arm here instead: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394024145564


Just slide your flinger in between the tab on the side of the side of the screen and pry toward the drivers door. The gif that I posted earlier was probably the fifth time I installed that mount, which is out of the batch production order.


I love this, my dude! This what I hoped to see when I posted them.

I just asked that everybody please respect the creative Commons license that I attached to the freely downloadable model. It encourages personal printing and remixing, but requires attribution and denies commercial use. You can read more about it here: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/


Holy moly what a ride this post is! Just a few quick things:

First, I agree with you on the pricing. Unfortunately, due to the low quantities were talking about here, they need to be 3D printed. If we were talking thousands of units I would be producing them via injection molding instead of 3D printing. Also, every one of them is printed in the USA instead of a cheaper part of the world like China.

Second, please be careful when printing via ABS. It puts off toxic fumes while printing, my dude. PLA loses rigidity at too low of a temperature, so these are printed in PETG. I'd suggest that is what you should use. To be fair though, it is somewhat difficult to print with as it's finicky on exact temperature and somewhat hydrophobic. (it absorbs water from the air and prints worse because of it)

Third, as described a bit earlier in this post, you'll likely have some breakage on your print due to how poorly 3D printing holds up against torsional strain. I'd suspect it will snap off at the bottom of the pole. I hope I'm wrong because getting one's pole snapped off is terrible. (or so I'm told)

Yeah, I’d be pissed if my pole snapped off at the base! ?

 

[Yellow Buddy]

Holy moly what a ride this post is! Just a few quick things:

First, I agree with you on the pricing. Unfortunately, due to the low quantities were talking about here, they need to be 3D printed. If we were talking thousands of units I would be producing them via injection molding instead of 3D printing. Also, every one of them is printed in the USA instead of a cheaper part of the world like China.

Second, please be careful when printing via ABS. It puts off toxic fumes while printing, my dude. PLA loses rigidity at too low of a temperature, so these are printed in PETG. I'd suggest that is what you should use. To be fair though, it is somewhat difficult to print with as it's finicky on exact temperature and somewhat hydrophobic. (it absorbs water from the air and prints worse because of it)

Third, as described a bit earlier in this post, you'll likely have some breakage on your print due to how poorly 3D printing holds up against torsional strain. I'd suspect it will snap off at the bottom of the pole. I hope I'm wrong because getting one's pole snapped off is terrible. (or so I'm told)

I have no idea how you’re pumping these out, it takes forever to just make one. Your printer must be going non-stop.

I just submitted a remix onto your profile. I’m not sure how it works, so hopefully I did it right.

The extension definitely acts as a lever, so some concern there. It seems to fit, seems stiff, but time will tell. It’ll have a iPhone 14 Pro on it so not light but not heavy.

I’ll update here if it ends up hitting me in the face as I try to show off the 0-60 and will be driving down some unpaved/gravel roads later today. So we'll see how it holds up in the short term.

Edit: 4 months, 8000 miles later..Seems to be holding up ok.

 

[BourboNole]

Quadlock Mag wireless charging head now installed with the Riviparts 1" RAM ball and double socket arm. The beauty is I can use the Mag head in the Rivian and the tradition Quadlock on my motorcycles. Location of the phone is prefect with the 3.75" RAM arm.

Which Ram Ball are you using to attach the quad lock mount? I think this is the way I am going to go.

 

[RivianXpress]

Which Ram Ball are you using to attach the quad lock mount? I think this is the way I am going to go.

I'm now awaiting this RAM Mag mount from Amazon :

RAM Mounts Ball Adapter for Apple MagSafe RAP-B-202-AP-MAGU with B Size 1" Ball

This RAM adapter and a strong MagSafe charger might be a better and cheaper way to go - even with a Quadlock case

I used this RAM ball and threaded some 1/4-20 threads into the Quadlock head for a good fit.

 

[zonehawk]

Have both of the latest versions and can attest they work great. Originally started with the 17mm version for my older magsafe mount but have switched to the 1in ram ball as I have several other accessories and an adapter that could work still with my charger. I used my shortest double socket arms in these photos but have some longer ones that would add some height if preferred. Thanks for making these!

1in with 17mm adapter

 

[Supraman16]

Anyone know how to uninstall this ball mount safely? I didn't want to force anything in the wrong direction and break something...like the two very expensive screens that this mount is installed in-between.

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