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HaveBlue

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I did a fix on my axles. Today was tire rotation day so I thought I would take the opportunity to address the noise. Every time I came to a stop or pulled away from a stop, there would be a creaking/tocking sort of spring sound. From previous investigation I already knew it was coming from where the outer axle CV enters the suspension upright.

Tools I used beyond removing a wheel for rotation:
Ratchet with a 13mm socket
Any size deep socket that's smaller than the splined axle
Single jack Hammer
Locktite red, blue in my case
Drive axle grease
A bent piece of wire or coat hanger
Crow bar

With the wheel off you will see the self locking bolt and washer that retains the outer stub. I used a crow bar between the wheel studs to prevent the rotor from turning and removed the retainer bolt and washer as seen below.
Rivian R1T R1S The Dreaded Axle Clunk is Back for Gen 1 AND Early Gen 2! But my R1S Now is Better Than New from Factory Rear brakes 2024-10-20 15.47.44

Rivian R1T R1S The Dreaded Axle Clunk is Back for Gen 1 AND Early Gen 2! But my R1S Now is Better Than New from Factory 20250921_141144

With this removed, the stub shaft needs to be pushed inward about an inch. One of mine I was able to simply pull it from the backside CV. The others, I put a deep socket against it and knocked it back with a hammer as they were tight. You'll then have something like this.
Rivian R1T R1S The Dreaded Axle Clunk is Back for Gen 1 AND Early Gen 2! But my R1S Now is Better Than New from Factory 20250921_141346

This will create a gap on backside between the CV and spindle upright. You will see bare shiney metal where the parts meet; circled in red below. This is actually the dark area in the image below due to lighting. Depending on your model you may also have a large thin flat washer on the CV end. These two mating surfaces are what need grease. It should be a silicone based one but I have a grease gun for regular drive axles with the red stuff and that has served well for decades so that's what I used. I was able to put a glob on my finger and coat that entire mating surface between the two parts. Even the washer spins so you can coat a section and move it to coat more if that is easier. The rear axles are a bit tighter for space and I globbed a piece of bent wire and reached in to coat.
Rivian R1T R1S The Dreaded Axle Clunk is Back for Gen 1 AND Early Gen 2! But my R1S Now is Better Than New from Factory 1000038661

Reassembly is pretty simple just applying a bit of locktite on the thread and installing the retainer bolt with washer. They ratchet and kind of stop at one gutentighter after everything is mashed back together.

This was a trivial undertaking while the car was in the air for a rotation. Took about as long to do one as write this. However this is a what I did, not a what you should do. No more squeaking though! Hopefully it lasts a while but I'll post up. My last attempt with a spray lube instantly made it much worse instead.
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Riviot

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I did a fix on my axles. Today was tire rotation day so I thought I would take the opportunity to address the noise. Every time I came to a stop or pulled away from a stop, there would be a creaking/tocking sort of spring sound. From previous investigation I already knew it was coming from where the outer axle CV enters the suspension upright.

Tools I used beyond removing a wheel for rotation:
Ratchet with a 13mm socket
Any size deep socket that's smaller than the splined axle
Single jack Hammer
Locktite red, blue in my case
Drive axle grease
A bent piece of wire or coat hanger
Crow bar

With the wheel off you will see the self locking bolt and washer that retains the outer stub. I used a crow bar between the wheel studs to prevent the rotor from turning and removed the retainer bolt and washer as seen below.
20250921_141144.webp

With this removed, the stub shaft needs to be pushed inward about an inch. One of mine I was able to simply pull it from the backside CV. The others, I put a deep socket against it and knocked it back with a hammer as they were tight. You'll then have something like this.
20250921_141346.webp

This will create a gap on backside between the CV and spindle upright. You will see bare shiney metal where the parts meet. This is actually the dark area in the image below due to lighting. Depending on your model you may also have a large thin flat washer on the CV end. These two mating surfaces are what need grease. It should be a silicone based one but I have a grease gun for regular drive axles with the red stuff and that has served well for decades so that's what I used. I was able to put a glob on my finger and coat that entire mating surface between the two parts. Even the washer spins so you can coat a section and move it to coat more if that is easier. The rear axles are a bit tighter for space and I globbed a piece of bent wire and reached in to coat.
View attachment 142797
Reassembly is pretty simple just applying a bit of locktite on the thread and installing the retainer bolt with washer. They ratchet and kind of stop at one gutentighter after everything is mashed back together.

This was a trivial undertaking while the car was in the air for a rotation. Took about as long to do one as write this. However this is a what I did, not a what you should do. No more squeaking though! Hopefully it lasts a while but I'll post up. My last attempt with a spray lube instantly made it much worse instead.
Great guide, keep us posted!

You may be missing a pic or two, that or I'm not understanding some things fully.
 

HaveBlue

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Sorry it's a bit abbreviated but once you look at those areas it becomes pretty straight forward for people who are comfortable doing a bit of wrenching.

Feels like a new truck, lol. It was really bad and I didn't want to drive with windows down.
 

DKM_R1S

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One thing I should point out here so that the two issues don't get conflated, this appears to be an issue with the clutch disconnect, which is an entirely separate issue from the ting washer and half shafts.

The Ting washer issue is not continuously audible while the vehicle is in motion. It is only a single audible clunk when changing from acceleration to regen or vice versa. Once it has made one clunking sound, there are no more until the next torque reversal.

A continuous clunking sound while the vehicle is in motion is indicative of a separate issue which in the case of @madreag appears to be a clutch disconnect problem
It was Deja vu reading out an R1S clutch disconnect failure in Montana. Last year I was in the middle of Montana on a cross country roadtrip when the clutch disconnect failed on the rear right motor. Slightly different mechanism (this was a quad). Did you have the blue fluid leaking out at any time?
 

mkhuffman

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I did a fix on my axles. Today was tire rotation day so I thought I would take the opportunity to address the noise. Every time I came to a stop or pulled away from a stop, there would be a creaking/tocking sort of spring sound. From previous investigation I already knew it was coming from where the outer axle CV enters the suspension upright.

Tools I used beyond removing a wheel for rotation:
Ratchet with a 13mm socket
Any size deep socket that's smaller than the splined axle
Single jack Hammer
Locktite red, blue in my case
Drive axle grease
A bent piece of wire or coat hanger
Crow bar

With the wheel off you will see the self locking bolt and washer that retains the outer stub. I used a crow bar between the wheel studs to prevent the rotor from turning and removed the retainer bolt and washer as seen below.
20250921_141144.webp

With this removed, the stub shaft needs to be pushed inward about an inch. One of mine I was able to simply pull it from the backside CV. The others, I put a deep socket against it and knocked it back with a hammer as they were tight. You'll then have something like this.
20250921_141346.webp

This will create a gap on backside between the CV and spindle upright. You will see bare shiney metal where the parts meet. This is actually the dark area in the image below due to lighting. Depending on your model you may also have a large thin flat washer on the CV end. These two mating surfaces are what need grease. It should be a silicone based one but I have a grease gun for regular drive axles with the red stuff and that has served well for decades so that's what I used. I was able to put a glob on my finger and coat that entire mating surface between the two parts. Even the washer spins so you can coat a section and move it to coat more if that is easier. The rear axles are a bit tighter for space and I globbed a piece of bent wire and reached in to coat.
View attachment 142797
Reassembly is pretty simple just applying a bit of locktite on the thread and installing the retainer bolt with washer. They ratchet and kind of stop at one gutentighter after everything is mashed back together.

This was a trivial undertaking while the car was in the air for a rotation. Took about as long to do one as write this. However this is a what I did, not a what you should do. No more squeaking though! Hopefully it lasts a while but I'll post up. My last attempt with a spray lube instantly made it much worse instead.
Sorry, I am also unsure exactly where you put the grease. Can you use an arrow on the pic to show where you put it? I don't have the issue, but it is something I would definitely attempt if I did. And maybe in the future, it will happen to my truck.
 

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We’ve had our half shafts replaced twice. Most recently added the new ting washers, and they found the front lower control arms bushings were torn, so they replaced the entire arms with an updated model.

40k miles on the R1S. I’ve got a 21 year old 5.9 Cummins that has less suspension issues than this car (IYKYK, that’s saying something). 🫠
 

Riviot

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Sorry it's a bit abbreviated but once you look at those areas it becomes pretty straight forward for people who are comfortable doing a bit of wrenching.

Feels like a new truck, lol. It was really bad and I didn't want to drive with windows down.
I get it now! Those pics are WITH the retaining bolt removed 👍🏼 I thought it was a before and after retaining bolt removed, now I see it's before and after you pushed the halfshaft spline backwards.

So you pulled from the back or pushed from the front to get splines exposed, then greased. When you did this, did you push from the rear back outwards? Or does reinstalling retaining bolts pull it out naturally?
 

HaveBlue

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Yes I need to do a better job explaining. I circled the area in red where grease needs to go.
The retaining bolt easily pulls things back together after.
 

HaveBlue

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Thanks. Wow at 94ftlb that little 13mm head bolt is going to get stretched! Toyota's use a 30mm nut. No wonder they want a new bolt. It's a specialty part. Ironically there isn't all that much force on them. The Dif side just snaps in with a Circlip.
 

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Thanks for posting this. I hadn't seen it anywhere else, but disappointing it's clearly torque to yield. Mine have gotten a lot worse over the past few months and low-speed control is suffering as well as on/off throttle to regen with small pedal inputs...very noticeable tocking. I also get the springy creaking sound taking off from a light while towing that HaveBlue mentioned. I was tempted to try just re-torquing, but I guess I won't bother now.
 

Riviot

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Thanks for posting this. I hadn't seen it anywhere else, but disappointing it's clearly torque to yield. Mine have gotten a lot worse over the past few months and low-speed control is suffering as well as on/off throttle to regen with small pedal inputs...very noticeable tocking. I also get the springy creaking sound taking off from a light while towing that HaveBlue mentioned. I was tempted to try just re-torquing, but I guess I won't bother now.
Well I've ordered my ting washer replacement kit! I'll keep y'all posted as I putz.

Rivian R1T R1S The Dreaded Axle Clunk is Back for Gen 1 AND Early Gen 2! But my R1S Now is Better Than New from Factory 1000005923
 

dlbewley

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My 2025 R1S built in August 2024 has not had any noticable half shaft issues, but I never drive with the windows down... ?

I just scheduled my headlight and turn signal recalls and I noticed these items on the estimate:

- FSAM-1679 Replace front NVH/ting washer
- FSAM-1507 Tighten hub to knuckle fasteners in 4 locations
 

madreag

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I have a 2024 R1S DM (Picked up March 2024) I had to take in 3 times, and about to bring it in for a 4th due to this same issue. What really seem to trigger it is long road trip from/to Arizona and Montana where posted speed limit is 80mph. When the thrashing get bad enough the car will actually lock itself in AWD until serviced.

• First noticed on an August 2024 trip from Arizona to Montana and back. Issue recurred on a recent August 2025 trip on the same route.

Service History:
1. Initial calibration attempt did not resolve; vehicle stuck in permanent AWD mode.

2. Rear motor replaced, which fixed the issue temporarily.

3. No issues until 2025 road trip (sustained 75-80mph highway). Service changed “drive unit seal” and calibrated.

4. see attached Video. The cluck is starting to get more and more violent, lurching the vehicle when coming to a stop or accelerating.

Opened a service appointment and sent them the video per their request. Will bring it in to see what they do. I’m pretty close to going the lemon route. I’ve also had one of the dreaded inner hub bolts drive itself out and seize the front motor as well… this will be the 5th time I have to bring it in for drive issues. It’s only got ~15000 miles on it.
Got my Rivian back. They did the Ting washer retrofit and replaced the rear drive unit. So far its driving well, but we all know these issues usually take time to develop.

Good thing I got it back just in time for this flash flood in AZ. Felt like a boat driving through the street with floating branches!
Rivian R1T R1S The Dreaded Axle Clunk is Back for Gen 1 AND Early Gen 2! But my R1S Now is Better Than New from Factory Flood1
 

Riviot

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Got my Rivian back. They did the Ting washer retrofit and replaced the rear drive unit. So far its driving well, but we all know these issues usually take time to develop.

Good thing I got it back just in time for this flash flood in AZ. Felt like a boat driving through the street with floating branches!
Flood1.webp
After watching your video, that's exactly what mine sounded like after the loud CLUNK and failure with AWD errors flashing.

Regarding driving in floods, highly recommend not doing so. You don't know what might be under the water, those branches and all can get up into that wheel well and do some damage. Rivian may not cover such damage.
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