Aftermarket jack

[jimmyb2]

Yes!

It goes to about 25" with the top completely screwed in. If you screw the top out, you get another ~3" for about 28" total. No problem jacking the rear of the truck in the highest suspension setting/jack mode. The only catch is the top of the jack has a saddle thing you'll need to modify. It's attached with a spring pin, so it's easy to remove. I have a metal lathe, so I put the saddle on there and machined it down to a cylinder that just fits inside the pucks I use. Perfect setup.

It's a 3.5T jack, but it was effortless to jack the truck up. Seems to be very well made (I think it's made in germany? Not sure). If you look for Mercedes Sprinter Jack on ebay, there are a bunch.

Thanks. Sounds even better than expected. I don’t know how you figured out this jack could do it, but I am glad you did bcuz I was unable to find a suitable bottle jack after searching for over a week.

I Just bought one on Ebay.

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[NY_Rob]

I've wondered why there is limited discussion about using the lower control arms with a floor jack instead of the body/frame locations.

Most likely because that's not a manufacturer designated lift point.

Seeing how beefy the suspension components are on the R1 vehicles it would probably be fine as a lift point, but if you place the jack saddle at the wrong spot it could damage the component or worse yet slip off the jack saddle.

FWIW- when I have to service a rear tire on my i3 I lift it from the lower control arm chassis mount vs. the jack puck in the frame cutout.

 

[twizzstyle]

I mostly don't want to lift from the control arms just because my floor jack is massive and kind of a pain to maneuver around behind the wheel. A bottle jack at the jack points is effortless.

 

[Ralph]

For me the best jacking solution comes from a mix of vendors:

Safejacks sells a kit that I have tested with the Gen 2 puck from Jackpucks.com. The puck from Jackpucks.com fits fine on the jack in the kit; which means the variety of extensions do as well.

I also bought their universal baseplate kit which provides additional stability for the bottle jack as well as a hi-lift (farm jack). I think you can purchase one without the Hi-Lift base.

I'll likely not carry a hi-lift, but person with you or that comes to your rescue might. And since the Rivian is so heavy, it can't hurt to make the jack as stable as possible, especially under less than ideal conditions.

* Edited for clarity

 

[Sgt Beavis]

For me the best jacking solution comes from a mix of vendors:

Safejacks sells a kit that I have tested with the Gen 2 puck from Jackpucks.com. The puck from Jackpucks.com fits fine on the jack in the kit; which means the variety of extensions do as well.

I also bought their universal baseplate kit which provides additional stability for the bottle jack as well as a hi-lift (farm jack). I think you can purchase one without the Hi-Lift base.

I'll likely not carry a hi-lift, but person with you or that comes to your rescue might. And since the Rivian is so heavy, it can't hurt to make the jack as stable as possible, especially under less than ideal conditions.

* Edited for clarity

Yea, Safejacks is pretty much the end all be all of bottle jacks. I’ve got one for my lifted Wrangler. The basic 6ton jack comes with extensions to make it lift higher. Here it is next to the 10ton big red jack.

In this pic, my R1T is at the max height setting. With the extension and puck, the SafeJack tops out at 20 3/8” The adapters I have for this jack are more than enough for my Wrangler on 37s. They have larger capacity jacks available as well. The only other jack I would consider over this is the Pro Eagle floor jack.

 

[Hebs]

For those that bought the Mercedes jack (I just picked one up on ebay), any advice on how to remove the pin that connects the u shaped top piece? I can drill this out but wasn't sure if there was an easier / simpler way to do it...

 

[Mathme]

I went low-tech for my tire rotations. I have a jack puck and an 8 ton hydraulic bottle jack from Harbor Freight. I then put a pair of 2x6s down on the driveway and cross them with another couple of 2x6. This give me about a 4" lift off the asphalt and also distributes the weight of the truck along the surface of the boards. Last time I did the rotation in the driveway it took about an hour to do all 5 wheels.

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

I would think of scissor jacks as temporary solutions. Ever used one? They are sketchy. And slow. Instead, get a bottle jack with 18” or more of total lift height (tend to be 10~12 ton variety) and a good puck.

 

[jimmyb2]

For those that bought the Mercedes jack (I just picked one up on ebay), any advice on how to remove the pin that connects the u shaped top piece? I can drill this out but wasn't sure if there was an easier / simpler way to do it...

Use a flat faced punch and hammer to drive it out. Slides right out. If no punch available can make one with appropriate sized nail by grinding/filing the point flat.

 

[Mark_AZR1T]

XL High Lift 6 Magnet Jack Puck
Thread Update ​

We designed a high lift magnetic jack puck (only high lift kit with magnets) - XL 6 Magnetic High Lift Jack Puck Purchase Link to work with a readily available hydraulic bottle jack, to provide support to Overlanders/Off Roaders and those that simple wanted a solution to get the rear wheels easily off the ground for a tire change or repair.

There are two reasons we released this high lift version of our magnetic jack pucks.

1. If you use this along with the Big Red Torin 10T Hydaulic Bottle Jack from Amazon Big Red 10T Bottle Jack Amazon Link you can lift the rear wheels off the ground in any Rivian R1, for a change or repair.

2. The Big Red 10T fits nicely in either the R1T or R1S and works well in off road situations, where you need extra height to get the tire off the ground.

People who want to do a plug repair on the road (screw or nail), you can easily use the XL puck and get the tire off the ground, to de-air, pull out the screw and insert a simple plug. After that air up using your compressor, lower and drive.

 

[KootenayEV]

I've got an end-cut from a 6x6 Douglas fir timber. I already own Mark's set of 4 jack pucks. Thoughts on using the 6x6 as a block to get the jack off the ground instead of using a longer thing sticking off the top of the jack?

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

I've got an end-cut from a 6x6 Douglas fir timber. I already own Mark's set of 4 jack pucks. Thoughts on using the 6x6 as a block to get the jack off the ground instead of using a longer thing sticking off the top of the jack?

I don't see why not. Helps to keep jack from sinking into soft ground too.

 

[BeanEW]

I used my Badland 3-ton jack (on the rear) for the first time along with my low profile 3-ton jack (on the front) to rotate my tires two days ago. It was quite easy. One thing that I would like is magnetic jack pucks. I currently have a set of 4 of the non-magnetic and it was a little challenging.

 

[UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan]

 

[Surfinkal]

Yea, Safejacks is pretty much the end all be all of bottle jacks. I’ve got one for my lifted Wrangler. The basic 6ton jack comes with extensions to make it lift higher. Here it is next to the 10ton big red jack.

In this pic, my R1T is at the max height setting. With the extension and puck, the SafeJack tops out at 20 3/8” The adapters I have for this jack are more than enough for my Wrangler on 37s. They have larger capacity jacks available as well. The only other jack I would consider over this is the Pro Eagle floor jack.

is there a specific kit you’d recommend? I’m still fuzzy on which is best for an R1T.

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