I designed a rain cover for the reverse camera

[Killer95Stang]

I'm not sure why that was in response to my comment, but...I have to note that PETG does not survive inside the truck in Phoenix. I talked to Polymaker's chemistry engineer and he said he was blown away, but they are in New Hampshire. The weight of just sunglasses will make your sunglass clip sag and drop them in our heat.

I've made no-load parts from their PLA-HT-GF which works great, and is nearly the perfect color for Rivian accents.

It was more of an agreement, that the files should be posted, if you are putting out here on the board.

Did you use "fuzzy skin" to get the texture? I worried about PETG here in Los Angeles County area and so far it has held up printing that same Hydro Flask adapter. I've also printed a few parts for my work car out of ABS and ASA , which are holding up pretty good. I like the idea of the HT PLA, but at what cost, when other materials that will work are dirt cheap. The exotic stuff gets real pricey real fast.

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[SwampNut]

Did you use "fuzzy skin" to get the texture?

Yeah, I have a really nice fuzzy skin sample kit so I looked for one that would be "car like" in appearance. It looks good in the car.

makerworld.com/en/models/1603564-complete-fuzzy-skin-sample-box-60-or-30-samples

I like the idea of the HT PLA, but at what cost

I found it accidentally, or well, because I was looking for a color match. It's the closest thing I've ever found to Rivian yellow.

Also, I can print many exotics well, like PA-CF. But I can't get my damn mind/printer to work with ASA for some reason. Just always a damn disaster. This one printed really well with a tweak from my other structural part settings.

We will see how these go next summer, in PETG even just a hat made them sag. Crazy right? PA-CF obviously is perfectly fine, but not colorful.

 

[dradam]

I am in Maryland. I’ve been using Overture PETG. Have not had any accessories melt yet.

 

[SwampNut]

I am in Maryland. I’ve been using Overture PETG. Have not had any accessories melt yet.

What is the point at which they freeze and crack though?

 

[dradam]

Never seen a print crack from freezing. Melts about 150 F

 

[SwampNut]

Never seen a print crack from freezing.

 

[Cal]

So can we buy one from you yet?

 

[SwampNut]

 

[Osyras]

The only filament I have found that doesn't melt in the heat of the R1s and its sun collector is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament. You need to make sure you anneal once done.

 

[CharonPDX]

Honestly. I live in PNW too, and in 3+ years driving my R1T I've never had a problem with that camera. Maybe your device is an improvement over stock, but I've never even wished for a better view. My Mark I eyeballs have always served me well when backing up.

I drive with stuff blocking the rear window frequently. The cameras are very useful in those situations.

 

[Killer95Stang]

The only filament I have found that doesn't melt in the heat of the R1s and its sun collector is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament. You need to make sure you anneal once done.

That's gotta be one hell of time printing that stuff. Ruby nozzle, heated chamber, Saturn in perfect alignment with Jupiter. Ive failed too many times printing nylon, so I'm just bitter

 

[Osyras]

That's gotta be one hell of time printing that stuff. Ruby nozzle, heated chamber, Saturn in perfect alignment with Jupiter. Ive failed too many times printing nylon, so I'm just bitter

I have a Creality k1 max with a E3D Creality Unicorn High Flow Obxidian Nozzle. So far no failed prints with this stuff.

 

[blank_lemur]

Also, I can print many exotics well, like PA-CF. But I can't get my damn mind/printer to work with ASA for some reason. Just always a damn disaster. This one printed really well with a tweak from my other structural part settings.

We will see how these go next summer, in PETG even just a hat made them sag. Crazy right? PA-CF obviously is perfectly fine, but not colorful.

I have also noticed PETG warp pretty easily in a car, though I still mostly print in that just because it’s easier. I recently switched a headliner sunglasses holder to PETG-CF and so far that one has held up without deforming. I’ve been thinking about trying ASA or nylon or something like that but that’s a pain because my printer isn’t enclosed or vented/filtered so I’d have to probably move it outside (I use a cheap grow tent) or into the garage… annoying.

I also wanted to point out that given the layer lines on your hooks, they won’t be super strong. I printed them that way the first time and they snapped with only moderate force. Printing them in their side produces a drastically stronger print. Not sure it would help with heat creep though. And if you’re only hanging stuff like a hat, this won’t matter… but put a full water bottle in one and it might crack/break.

Anyway, back to OP’s print… I really wonder how this will help if you’re driving around in wet weather with water and dirt getting kicked up from the road. I constantly see multiple cameras globbed up with water droplets. I’m tempted to try to ceramic coat them or something to try to keep the water and grime from sticking…. It didn’t want to mess them up either. At least in the R1S I can hit the rear wiper spray and it sprays off the camera too.

 

[SwampNut]

I also wanted to point out that given the layer lines on your hooks, they won’t be super strong.

Those aren't layer lines, and I've completely solved this for my prints, but it's worth talking about for others who may be interested. I've printed (and broken) at least 15 iterations of those hooks in every orientation, fill, wall count, joint scarfing, etc. It's hard to get good looks and strength together. The ones you see are strong as hell; you'd damage the car before they break. What you're seeing are a combination of the remains of supports and the fuzzy skin running predominantly in one direction. Fuzzy skin can actually add strength, not just looks and friction (so things don't slide off).

The only filament I have found that doesn't melt in the heat of the R1s and its sun collector is Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament. You need to make sure you anneal once done.

I've been using Sainsmart PA-CF for some time with excellent results and never anneal it. I make structural/working things, and car stuff. My CarPlay mount for example is under constant stress and is in direct sun on the dash, no problem. Maybe the Phoenix heat annealed it for me, LOL. I've tried to print Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF15 twice and failed both times. I also have issues with Polymaker PETG. I feel like I have a special knack for PA-CF, and a curse with PETG/ASA.

 

[blank_lemur]

Those aren't layer lines, and I've completely solved this for my prints, but it's worth talking about for others who may be interested. I've printed (and broken) at least 15 iterations of those hooks in every orientation, fill, wall count, joint scarfing, etc. It's hard to get good looks and strength together. The ones you see are strong as hell; you'd damage the car before they break. What you're seeing are a combination of the remains of supports and the fuzzy skin running predominantly in one direction. Fuzzy skin can actually add strength, not just looks and friction (so things don't slide off).

I've been using Sainsmart PA-CF for some time with excellent results and never anneal it. I make structural/working things, and car stuff. My CarPlay mount for example is under constant stress and is in direct sun on the dash, no problem. Maybe the Phoenix heat annealed it for me, LOL. I've tried to print Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF15 twice and failed both times. I also have issues with Polymaker PETG. I feel like I have a special knack for PA-CF, and a curse with PETG/ASA.

Well, those are definitely layer lines I see, especially on the hook on the right indicating that you're printing them as it's seen here with the hook upright and the bottom of the hook on the bed. That's awesome that you've got strong hooks, but I suspect that's more because you're using PA-CF or because you've dialed in your PA-CF printing to have very good layer adhesion. I've never used it, but maybe it's able to melt between layers better than other materials so orientation is less important? I mean, it's some pretty strong stuff, so maybe for this application the orientation matters less than wall count and other aspects. I hadn't thought about how fuzzy skin could help with strength too. That's cool. I just pointed this out because if someone prints them in PETG or even just plain ASA/ABS I've had these split somewhat easily. Printing them on their side solves that for me. That said, I did recently just buy some PA6-CF and PC-GF to see if I could find a better material for inside the car (notably up on the dash where sun exposure and higher heat is sure to happen).

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