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Interior passenger-side fuse box

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Sonartech

Sonartech

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Clubs
 
I have a very power hungry dashcam that has failed a few times via my mirror tap but works absolutely fine when I plug the manufacturer provided USB-C cable in with a good sized power brick away from the vehicle. It even fails with a MacBook USB-C cable w/ power brick.

I ordered the hardwire kit from the dashcam manufacturer so I assume the provided cable and fuse taps will be sufficient. In reviewing the list of fuses, I was hoping to tap the passenger side but it's unclear which fuse to tap. I've seen F11 (amplifier) mentioned a few times. Have there been suggestions on other passenger side fuses to tap that will supply sufficient power when "ignition" is on?

Otherwise I think I might go with one of the 12V Port fuses. Do we know which is which? I'm unclear what F46, F51 and F54 for the R1S are. My guesses below.
  1. F46 12V Port #1 Frunk/Under Dash?
  2. F51 12V Port #2 Under second row screen?
  3. F54 12V Port #3 (GG Tunnel for R1T, but what is it for R1S?)
  4. F59 12 V Port #4 R1S Luggage
I would recommend F48 - the same one used for the 1EV Smart Dash Screen. You can find installation instructions here: Installation Instructions for Rivian R1T / R1S Apple CarPlay / Android - EV Sportline - The Leader in Electric Vehicle Accessories
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I would recommend F48 - the same one used for the 1EV Smart Dash Screen. You can find installation instructions here: Installation Instructions for Rivian R1T / R1S Apple CarPlay / Android - EV Sportline - The Leader in Electric Vehicle Accessories
Thank you, that looks like the RH 2nd/3rd row USB and the wireless charging pad. Hopefully, the circuit won't starve the dashcam if someone plugs in to charge their phone? But I do understand why they stayed away from the 12V fuses given how proprietary they are.
 
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Sonartech

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Thank you, that looks like the RH 2nd/3rd row USB and the wireless charging pad. Hopefully, the circuit won't starve the dashcam if someone plugs in to charge their phone? But I do understand why they stayed away from the 12V fuses given how proprietary they are.
No worries about that - you're tapping in before the circuit fuse for those other accessories, and none of that stuff should come close to eating 10 amps anyway. There's probably more like 50 amps in the box that supplies that 10 amp, if not more, and you're branching off of contacts rated at 40+ amps - so if you run the tap correctly, you shouldn't be anywhere near the circuit limits.
 

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Does anybody know what fuse would be associated with the parking assist sensor system?
 

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If you do a search for Rivian Apple CarPlay and look at the video instructions on installing it this is the fuse they use. My R1 S has a 40 amp instead of a 50 amp but this is what the Apple CarPlay tied into. I installed it in a works perfectly. This is under the driver side right above the dead pedal

Rivian R1T R1S Interior passenger-side fuse box IMG_9268
 

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I can hear relays clicking on/off behind the driver dash so there’s something back there…. Not sure if it’s serviceable fuses or just auto-resetting circuit breakers.
We have the same clicking on the driver side dash. Did you ever figure out how to stop it? Do you still have the problem?
 

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Has anyone found any always-on standard fuses either on the driver or passenger side? Dashcam has a parking mode, I know earlier trucks had problems with the 12V system completely draining but there's a safety shutoff in the hardwire kit, so thinking about moving forward with it.
 

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Has anyone found any always-on standard fuses either on the driver or passenger side? Dashcam has a parking mode, I know earlier trucks had problems with the 12V system completely draining but there's a safety shutoff in the hardwire kit, so thinking about moving forward with it.
@citizen I'm wondering if you resolved this? I'm going to be installing a Vantrue N4 pro dash cam in my R1S soon. The hardwire kit requires a 12V battery input and an accessory input. Any help is much appreciated.

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@citizen I'm wondering if you resolved this? I'm going to be installing a Vantrue N4 pro dash cam in my R1S soon. The hardwire kit requires a 12V battery input and an accessory input. Any help is much appreciated.

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following for updates as well. It’s hard to break out the voltmeter since there’s really no on/off
 

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As someone that wants to hardwire a dashcam with a fuse tap this is a bit annoying.
Hey, I'm wondering if you were able to hardwire up a dash cam successfully? I got mine working in theory, I just need to route the wire and shave down a fuse tap to size (sigh)
 

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Looks like the R1T and R1S share the same fuse panels, with that in mind.. check out the R1T passenger side fuse panel below and the circuit description key below that.
I'd look at fuse F11 "Amplifier" as that is definitely switched.

1704210404189.png


1704210424504.png
Just a note, my R1S Drivers fuse box looks nothing like this diagram. So either they changed in 2023, or the R1S is diff than R1T.
 

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Just a note, my R1S Drivers fuse box looks nothing like this diagram. So either they changed in 2023, or the R1S is diff than R1T.
That diagram is from an original two-battery Rivian. Since they changed to a single 12V battery system in early to mid 2023, it makes sense that the fuse boxes on those models have changed as well. I'd expect another fuse box change now with the gen 2 Rivian's as well.
 

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Interesting. Mind sharing a photo of it?
Drivers side 2023 R1S
Rivian R1T R1S Interior passenger-side fuse box IMG_0363

or after doing the picture maybe it was because my head was upside down? Looks really close when comparing the 2 pictures.
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