Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer

[Ncmish]

Thank you! I figured the line level input needed to to go the amp. Sorry, a couple more questions - Can I add a fuse between the 12v (pink wire) to =12v on the amp? I wanted to add some type of backup. And with only one red (R) and one white (L) input on my amp (picture), do I splice the RCA and tap red+white for R & L or red+red and white+white for R&L from existing sub (line level inputs)? That part is confusing me because of my amp setup. Thank you again for your help!

So I am not sure if those inputs are line level, typically they are pre-out level. You can try it, but it might be heavily distorted. You need an amp with line level inputs, which this might have, just can’t see that in the picture.

You can add a fuse anywhere you would like, but I assuming the pink wire already has a fuse in the fuse block. However I didn’t use the pink wire at all so not sure.

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[Progolfer82]

So I am not sure if those inputs are line level, typically they are pre-out level. You can try it, but it might be heavily distorted. You need an amp with line level inputs, which this might have, just can’t see that in the picture.

You can add a fuse anywhere you would like, but I assuming the pink wire already has a fuse in the fuse block. However I didn’t use the pink wire at all so not sure.

Thank you for your quick responses and help. So I'm returning this amp (screenshot I shared) to Amazon and just ordered and about to go pickup this amp at my local Best Buy - black friday sale. They had one left, and it seems like a much better option. Looks like this will do the trick, but again, confused about the two red and two white existing wires being split to go into the line inputs. Thanks again, your help is greatly appreciated!

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kenwoo...-pass-crossover-black/6330947.p?skuId=6330947

 

[SidewayzR1S]

Just finished the subwoofer install. Here are my thoughts....

I picked up a Kicker DVC 2ohm speaker to run at 1 ohm (or 4ohm). I picked up the Rockford Fosgate Amp (https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r2-750x1/) which is ideal for several reasons:

1. Its small enough to place behind the subwoofer so I don't have to place it in the spare tire wheel
2. It has an auto on from the line level inputs so I didn't have to worry about tapping a remote wire
3. It can run down to 1 ohm (more on this in a sec)
4. It has a bass adjustment cord you can wire into the car so you can tune the amp without having to pull the entire panel and subwoofer off.

I had everything ready to install and then started second guessing running a 1 ohm speaker given the power needed, and was it really necessary??? I have set this up multiple times in regular cars, but somehow I got this feeling I was taking an unnecessary risk with an EV. I decided to switch at last minute, and ran the DVC in series creating a 4 ohm set up.

The benefit of running 4 ohms is I was less worried about running a giant 4 ga wire to the battery, and now could run an 8ga wire. Running a wire to the battery is a PITA. I only ran a 8ga wire, cant imagine trying to run a 4ga. The trick is the firewall -- there is only one place to push it through and its the center of the firewall right next to the cabin air filter. Couple notes on this:

There are (4) open rubber tubes you can push the wire through, but each of the other sides (about 4 inches inside the cabin) are totally sealed. You have to pop the giant rubber grommet out, cut the back off a tube off to open it, and then you can push the wire through. I ran a coat hanger through and it came down to the passenger's feet (you have to remove the panel with the light and the two torq screws).

The batteries are right in front of the cabin filter, pop the large red cap off to expose the several positive terminals. Make sure you put a fuse in line by the battery (if you are reading his -- you probably know to do this). This was straight forward.

I found a bolt to ground to in the back by the speaker, really any bolt will do. The line levels are tricky -- only one of the four wires (two red, two black) that attached to the OEM sub have voltage, so I split that live wire to both line level input channels of the amp (this took me a sec to figure out -- on the amp one input channel is for the auto power on, and one is for the mono wiring). Iran the remote bass controller back into the spare tire well to adjust if needed.

I put some Kilmat on the rear metal panel, put it back together, fired it up and Yes! 4 ohm with that amp hits hard. And then an issue - WAY TOO MUCH RATTLING. Pulled the whole thing apart and went absolutely crazy with the Kilmat. The entire right side of the car was covered, I covered the entire back of the woofer enclosure, I even covered the entire spare tire metal floor.

Put it all back together and PERFECT! Grabbed my 18yr old daughter to test it it out and she loved it and gave me the cool dad nod. Awesome.

I have seen people use the audio control lc2i, and the jl loc22, and now you used an amp with line level inputs. Do you have any roll off at higher volumes that would require the lc2i to tune out? Any problem with the amp turning on or bass at lower levels with the auto turn on?

Also your amp at 4 ohms is rated for 250w rms. Is it a huge improvement? I really want to go 500w rms to a jl 10w3 2ohm, but also have concern about the draw to the 12v system and not sure how oversized the battery charging system is in the r1s. I was just looking at the rockford fosgate R2-500X1, smaller version of your amp.

Thank you again for your write up! Thanks, Chris

 

[Progolfer82]

My wife loves bass. She has wanted an upgrade in every vehicle she's had.
The R1S is actually awesome for upgrading. The sub in the side is a standard size 10" sub and the box is quite large.

I had an Alpine sub already that fit perfect. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-CR4QZ5tkjul/p_500SWRT10/Alpine-SWR-T10.html

The stock sub is actually a dual 4 ohm coil, thought that was interesting. I used line level inputs into a JL Audio amp. I was able to find a 12V power on the left side of the trunk with the solid pinkish wire in the picture. Since it switches off with the car, I also used that at the turn on signal for the amp.

I ran a remote knob up to the front seat so the wife can adjust easily.
First try, the whole area rattled horribly. Put a ton of acoustic mat on everything I could around the sub. That mat fixed it all and now can crank out way more power than what the wife will want.

Do you have any pictures of tapping the 12v pink wire for power? Thanks.

 

[Tmonax]

I was thinking of something like this:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html?tp=68872
Impedance match with stock

Did you give this a shot? Would love to avoid surgery and just swap to a better speaker.

 

[aw113sgte]

Do you have any pictures of tapping the 12v pink wire for power? Thanks.

I don't besides the ones posted.

 

[aw113sgte]

Did you give this a shot? Would love to avoid surgery and just swap to a better speaker.

I tried a similar one. Stock amp just didn't have enough power.

 

[Progolfer82]

I don't besides the ones posted.

Was it a Y pigtail, wire tap, etc....? thank you.

 

[aw113sgte]

Was it a Y pigtail, wire tap, etc....? thank you.

Pulled the pin out of the plug and soldered the amp wire to the pin. Was a bit tight to get back in the plug but a little persuasion got it done.

 

[Progolfer82]

Pulled the pin out of the plug and soldered the amp wire to the pin. Was a bit tight to get back in the plug but a little persuasion got it done.

Thank you. Did you use 8g?

 

[sac602]

The replaced sub is definately way to go if you have the ambition. I went with a Cerwin Vega spare tire sub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0861JBRKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Fits fine with R1S spare. Sounds very good (but nowhere near as good as an upgraded 10" would sound.). Food for thought for the lazy ones (like me).

 

[GSGun]

Just finished installing a RD 500/1 and 10W3x3-4. Went speaker lines to RCA and RD amps can take high voltage input. I tapped the 12V from the pink wire on the left. For some reason, remote to 12V will switch on the amp but won't switch it off. I ended up using signal offset for turn on which works fine with my set up.

I did notice the sub enclosure had 5 mounting screws to the frame. 2 on top, 2 on the right and 1 on the diagonal. The enclosure was not screwed on the diagonal and i only noticed it after removing. I couldn't figure out how to remove the tube leading to the side vent and ended up popping the vent out trying to get it out.

As mentioned by others, rattles horribly and placed sound proofing everywhere. I haven't placed a sub amp in 15 years on my old ICE beater car. This took longer than expected but was a fun project and appreciate everyone's posts/insights.

 

[Iamuwere]

Did this install last night as well. Tons of sound deadening, but still haven't chased it all away.

NVX Sub, amp,, and line level converter.

Only one piece makes the interior removal hard, the forward top metal clip on the side panel. The lower portions at the front are no problem, the back isn't hard, but that first clip near the seatbelt is a major pain to get to come out.

 

[Chadasm]

Has anyone measured the mounting depth inside of the box? I may end up with the JL W3 but I’d like to figure out options before taking it all apart.

 

[chops]

Has anyone measured the mounting depth inside of the box? I may end up with the JL W3 but I’d like to figure out options before taking it all apart.

based on another post it should fit. i however went with a TW1 and it barely fits since the basket is so large on the TW1.

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