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Vampire drain - what's the latest battery % loss people are getting?

HaveBlue

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Possibly in range... but I have never set my phone up as a key to operate my R1T and I never opened the app during my 4-day test. I also turn my phone off at night and sometimes don't need to turn it on till 6PM the next day.

I did have BT turned off in the R1T during the test. Are you saying that with the BT turned off in the vehicle GUI bringing a BT phone near the vehicle still wakes it up?
I haven't tested turning off the BT in the car but I doubt it matters. This setting probably turns off the BT audio for the infotainment. When I run a BT scan, there's one for Rivian Audio but there a bunch of BT entry modules as well under the heading Rivian key. I think those are always on and scanning. Those are what unlocks the car. Those are what wakes the car.

Can you tell me if you use your phone to start and drive your car or do you always use a key card? Even if you don't have PAAK setup, is your phone registered as a key or are there literally no phones authorized or showing in the key section of the truck settings? When you bought your car, you never enabled your phone or someone's in your household to work with the car during the orientation with your guide and the fob is not in range?

If your phone, and others, are off then yea that's a head scratcher for sure.
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NY_Rob

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I haven't tested turning off the BT in the car but I doubt it matters. This setting probably turns off the BT audio for the infotainment. When I run a BT scan, there's one for Rivian Audio but there a bunch of BT entry modules as well under the heading Rivian key. I think those are always on and scanning. Those are what unlocks the car. Those are what wakes the car.

Can you tell me if you use your phone to start and drive your car or do you always use a key card? Even if you don't have PAAK setup, is your phone registered as a key or are there literally no phones authorized or showing in the key section of the truck settings? When you bought your car, you never enabled your phone or someone's in your household to work with the car during the orientation with your guide and the fob is not in range?

If your phone, and others, are off then yea that's a head scratcher for sure.
Never, ever set up any PAAK, I use the fob to drive or sometimes the wristband.
Under "authorized keys" there are 2 key cards, the fob and the wristband... no phones.
Fob is stored in a tested Faraday box (with the lid closed) in the house along with our Model 3 and i3 fobs.
 

tate16t

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Never, ever set up any PAAK, I use the fob to drive or sometimes the wristband.
Under "authorized keys" there are 2 key cards, the fob and the wristband... no phones.
Fob is stored in a tested Faraday box (with the lid closed) in the house along with our Model 3 and i3 fobs.
Which Faraday box did you purchase? I was thinking about getting one too.
 

HaveBlue

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Never, ever set up any PAAK, I use the fob to drive or sometimes the wristband.
Under "authorized keys" there are 2 key cards, the fob and the wristband... no phones.
Fob is stored in a tested Faraday box (with the lid closed) in the house along with our Model 3 and i3 fobs.
Wow ok you've exhausted my ideas 😁. I too removed the battery from my fob. I keep trying to avoid putting an ammeter Inline with a bunch of fuses but maybe I'll do it one day. Another possibility is a bigger battery like a 33ah instead of the 18ah. Maybe the car will last longer asleep essentially staying asleep until the next drive cycle when everything is powered on anyway.
 

NY_Rob

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Wow ok you've exhausted my ideas 😁. I too removed the battery from my fob. I keep trying to avoid putting an ammeter Inline with a bunch of fuses but maybe I'll do it one day. Another possibility is a bigger battery like a 33ah instead of the 18ah. Maybe the car will last longer asleep essentially staying asleep until the next drive cycle when everything is powered on anyway.
Thanks for trying, but I've reached the conclusion that I've turned off as much as I can as an owner and in moderate temps 1kWh/day vampire drain is as low as you're going to get in an R1 vehicle.
I believe the only reason you see people sometimes saying "I didn't lose any range over 24hrs" is because their display just hasn't updated yet and as soon as they start driving they will instantly see the range drop by a mile or two after driving only 1/4 of a mile.
 

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tate16t

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Thanks for trying, but I've reached the conclusion that I've turned off as much as I can as an owner and in moderate temps 1kWh/day vampire drain is as low as you're going to get in an R1 vehicle.
I believe the only reason you see people sometimes saying "I didn't lose any range over 24hrs" is because their display just hasn't updated yet and as soon as they start driving they will instantly see the range drop by a mile or two after driving only 1/4 of a mile.
Good to know. Didn’t someone hear mention they had a battery replaced and it resolve vampire drain?
 

NY_Rob

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Which Faraday box did you purchase? I was thinking about getting one too.
This one..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HJX6QYW

I tested it by putting a fob inside the box and walking right up to the driver door of our Rivian, Model 3 and BMW i3 with the box and none of the vehicles unlocked or knew there was an active fob 1" from the door. To me that's as valid a test as there is.
 

NY_Rob

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Good to know. Didn’t someone hear mention they had a battery replaced and it resolve vampire drain?
Yeah, I saw that post too.. and if the 12V original battery was bad, needing a constant recharge that would increase parasitic drain. But replacing it with a good one wouldn't stop drain, although it could reduce it somewhat. We all know Rivian has many systems/CPU's running while it's "sleeping" and those systems run on electricity. Just that fact alone tells you there is no such thing a "no drain" on the battery over any period of time.
 

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Thanks for trying, but I've reached the conclusion that I've turned off as much as I can as an owner and in moderate temps 1kWh/day vampire drain is as low as you're going to get in an R1 vehicle.
I believe the only reason you see people sometimes saying "I didn't lose any range over 24hrs" is because their display just hasn't updated yet and as soon as they start driving they will instantly see the range drop by a mile or two after driving only 1/4 of a mile.
After my 12V battery was replaced, mine dropped to ~0.7%, I did another test and disabled vehicle WiFi and 24hr use dropped to 0.5~0.6% ... I agree, I don't think that there is anything else we can do until Rivian further optimizes 12V usage. But for those that are seeing their vehicle wake up ever 2-3 hrs or so, I'd suggest putting in a ticket, as my 12V battery was having issues. Now, my R1S will sleep 5-6 hours at a time. I'l probably keep my Electrafi account for another month or 2 to monitor then cancel.
 

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This is probably a very dumb question given discussion of faraday boxes (hardcore!), but do people see a material difference from turning off proximity sensors alone as an action? (I generally am not inconvenienced by the drain im seeing since I can charge at home and work but curious extent to which the drain is driven by oversensitive proximity vs. inefficient background software).

Also, again maybe even dumber question, does the car still respond to commands from the app or fob when proximity is off?
 

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This is probably a very dumb question given discussion of faraday boxes (hardcore!), but do people see a material difference from turning off proximity sensors alone as an action? (I generally am not inconvenienced by the drain im seeing since I can charge at home and work but curious extent to which the drain is driven by oversensitive proximity vs. inefficient background software).

Also, again maybe even dumber question, does the car still respond to commands from the app or fob when proximity is off?
Yes the app and fob still control the same with proximity off (from button presses)

I find the prox off knocks my vampire drain nearly in half which takes if from very annoying to not nearly as noticable. So much so that I now want a one press hot key to toggle it on and off on the main screen.
Out shopping it's annoying to have prox off, but anytime parked at home (could be days) I want it off.
 

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Yes the app and fob still control the same with proximity off (from button presses)

I find the prox off knocks my vampire drain nearly in half which takes if from very annoying to not nearly as noticable. So much so that I now want a one press hot key to toggle it on and off on the main screen.
Out shopping it's annoying to have prox off, but anytime parked at home (could be days) I want it off.
This is super helpful! I'm going to try tomorrow.

You would think that given the car can geo target charging schedules that it should be able to do the same with the proximity protocol.
 

SSteveEV

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This is super helpful! I'm going to try tomorrow.

You would think that given the car can geo target charging schedules that it should be able to do the same with the proximity protocol.
Strangely the "off at home" setting doesn't seem to kill it quite as well as being actually off. Others here have done much better testing of the different modes as you probably read recently.
Also I'm living at work for the winter so the off at home doesn't work well right now for me.
 

ryunited

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Strangely the "off at home" setting doesn't seem to kill it quite as well as being actually off. Others here have done much better testing of the different modes as you probably read recently.
Also I'm living at work for the winter so the off at home doesn't work well right now for me.
So I THOUGHT I had set proximity to off at home during my delivery at the SC, but I mixed it up with Gear Guard settings.

I experimented yesterday and it went from like 2% drain in day to under 1% because it was same percentage as I left it 24 hrs earlier when I turned it on this morning (though it clicked down a % pretty quick once I got going).

Huge difference!
 

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I just returned from a 10 day trip. 6% loss, gear guard off in my garage.
not as good as our Taycan, but I can live with it.
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