HarrySiii
Member
- First Name
- Harry
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2022
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 5
- Location
- New Hampshire, USA
- Vehicles
- 2021 Ford Mustang Mach-E GTPE; 2018 Chrysler Pac.
Forgot to say.....you do realize that a limited slip diff in no way behaves like a locked diff, right? If you're truly worried about sliding off the cliff of death, you most definitely would want limited slip over locked for sure.
Ok, so I finally made it to the end...for now...page 21, after 2 or 3 days of reading. Mostly great info and conversation.Edit: hum, actually that is rolling resistance, not rolling friction. Actually even though they are cross referenced in that link, they are completely different concepts.
I am quite sure some of you can explain this better than I can, so feel free to chime in but here goes:
Rolling Friction:
Although I am sure there is a more appropriate scientific term for it, we enthusiast types use this term to refer to the lateral resistance a rolling wheel retains as long as it is moving.
A static wheel has static friction, which is greater than sliding friction.
A freely rolling wheel maintains it's "lateral static coefficient" even when it is rolling; up until the friction is broken.
Once broken, the wheel will move in whatever direction forces act upon it, regardless of which direction it happens to be turning.
This is why a braking car on ice is out of control until the driver lets up on the brakes and lets at least 2 of the wheels spin with no resistance what-so-ever. If you can get at least a front & rear wheel "connected" and spinning again in this way, you will regain as much lateral control as the surface will allow. The other two can continue trying to slow (or accelerate) the vehicle while the "anchor" wheels maintain lateral control (i.e. keep you from sliding over the edge).
How did I do, is that close?
This is slick surface driving 101. NO! You do NOT want to use any more brake than you absolutely have to. NO!! You do NOT want your diff in any kind of locked or LS condition! You MUST have your diffs open, to allow complete free-wheeling of the wheels with the most traction to keep your vehicle from spinning out, moving sideways or falling off the trail. If you cannot gain enough traction with your other 2 wheels, you will be looking for other options (winch), but unless you are that nuub that just bought a Jeep and wanted to tag along with the big boys, you do NOT lock your diffs; or over the side you go.
I know I did not do as well at explaining this as some of you may be able to do, but I have come to see that there are those not aware of how this works.
I have a couple of questions on the two quotes above which sound contradictory to other quotes in this thread about locked versus open, etc.
Are you saying (RIP) that in your case you'd want an OPEN diff? I though through the rest of this you were saying that you'd only trust a LOCKED diff in your example. The example being off-camber snowy/slippery surface. I would think a LOCKED diff would also cause you to slide off the cliff in the case that all 4 wheels were slipping underneath (obviously not if any one wheel had traction). Otherwise, a limited-slip would be best, correct?
In that case, what others are saying about a speed-applied 4 wheel setup could also work, because it can add speed only keeping speed with the wheel with the most traction (PROACTIVE). Of course, if at any time this acts in a REACTIVE fashion, it would be best to have only the crawling mode implement this at extremely low speeds in low traction situations. (again, as others have said, product managers and engineering need to decide this is a high enough priority to code and implement)
Alternatively, if there were enough room in the packaging, they could add E-locking diffs between the two motors (and maybe even a driveshaft front-rear) to satisfy this use-case scenario. That would severely change design and cargo capacities of the vehicle, which they wouldn't do for the masses, but maybe another off-model once they truly make it "big" (enough).
Edit: Additionally, you'd want the latter type of setup at least electronically connected the same-axle motors to achieve more power output to a single wheel.
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