I'm going to do as you suggested on both the R1T and our R1S. I'll painter-tape first, to set some expectations and go from there. Thank you for your post and results!Hi guys, I've been reading these forums for advice and tips on troubleshooting wind noise, and I have come up with a DIY fix that works really well!
First off, I would like to thank Hamdan's post for getting me started:
https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/wind-noise-solved-at-last-using-tube-rubber-seal.17797/
I would definitely read through what he's done as my fix is somewhat based on that
However, I will try to make a more concise guide here with pictures to help streamline the process.
FYI, I have a 2024 R1S build/VIN.
Part 1: Figure out what kind of wind noise you have
-If you have very obvious wind noise coming from one spot (most likely the seal from the A pillar window), then Rivian Service can actually replace that seal and fix it
-However, if it's the more general "the car just seems loud at highway speeds", then Rivian Service will say "it's within spec", and leave you frustrated. I, like many others, have taken my car in for wind noise only for them to tell me that. If this is the type of wind noise that you have, then we can move on to our DIY fix
Part 2: The Fix
From my extensive testing using painter's tape to seal areas, I've found 3 common areas that seem to really help remove the wind noise.
They are:
1. The door frame seal (on car frame, and on door),
2. The seal around the edge of the door
3. The seals INSIDE the window
Amazon Parts:
Door Frame Seal (buy 2):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H89G7D1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Car Weather Stripping,Universal Self Adhesive Auto Door Rubber Draft Seal Strip,Car Window Door Engine Cover Noise Insulation(47/100 Inch Wide X 2/5 Inch Thick X 33 Feet Long)
Door Edge Seal and Inside Window Seals (buy 2):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NL4D2T8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Trim-LOK Rubber Cord Seal for Gun and Pistol Cases, Tackle Boxes, Cooler Lids, Replacement O-Ring Watertight Weatherstripping Seal - 0.25
Door Frame Fix
For the door frame, I used the L shaped weather stripping and placed it around the existing seal on the car frame, and behind the existing seal on the door itself. The idea is basically to puff up the existing seal on the door, and to give more rubber surface area on the door frame to make a tighter seal
Doing this helped make the car quieter, but the buffeting kind of wind noise was still apparent at highway speeds. The rubber can be inserted around the existing seal quite snugly. I was able to make it look pretty good, with only minimal adhesive use. You do not need to buy adhesive, the seal comes with an adhesive back arleady. I used one solid piece all the way around the door and put the ends towards the front bottom of the door, so you really can't see any gaps.
Outer Door Seal Fix
The leading front edge and top of each door also has a rubber seal. However, due to the door tolerances not being great, I think a lot of wind noise slips in here, especially at highway speeds. I would recommend placing a continuous Trim-Lok cord seal along the entire seal. FYI, it does shrink a little bit in the sun, so I would cut the piece a little long initially.
Inside Window Fix
After adding rubber seals to the door frame and outer door seals, I would say my wind noise went from a B- to a B+. However, I would still get some buffeting noise at high speeds. To put it in terms of numbers, I used to hear significant wind noise above 60mph. After the Door Frame Fix and Outer Door Seal Fix, I would hear wind noise around 75mph (quieter, but still noticeable).
My windows do close all the way (this was verified by Rivian Service), but listening carefully, I could still hear wind noise coming through the window. Once I rolled down the window, I saw the same type of seal as on the outer door seal. There are two layers, but again - I guess the manufacturing tolerances aren't great yet, and I don't think the seal is making a tight contact with the window glass.
I also placed a continuous Trim-Lok cord seal along the entire path, and one for each track inside the window. I used a guitar pick (or you can cut a plastic strip from an old credit card) to pry the seal more open to stick the Trim-Lok underneath it. I verified that the windows roll up and down without any interference
Seal Locations:
Pry these open a bit to insert the trim-lok cord seal:
Results:
After applying all 3 fixes, my R1S is dead silent at speeds less than 75mph. I hear a tiny bit of wind noise at 80mph. And I have to go 85-90mph before I would say the wind noise forces me to increase my speaker volume to 12. Even at 85-90mph, the wind noise is MUCH quieter than the stock configuration
In terms of comparison, I a hybrid BMW X5 and I would say the Rivian is now on par with it. I would give it an A- in terms of wind noise. Other cars I've driven that are quieter (rating A) would be an i4 or E-tron.
I've attached pictures to help visualize my DIY fix.
Hope this helps everyone who's sick of hearing wind noise!
completed trim-lok round seals:
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Addendum - What about the windshield and roof?
Personally, my testing of the windshield and roof did not yield any changes in the wind noise. I used painter's tape to first cover up the panel gaps, and had no effect. I put trim lock cord seal and even bought the T shaped rubber seal that Hamdan's post used, but no change in wind noise for me.
While Rivian's build quality is impressive considering it's short history, I think there is still a lot of variance between each car, so maybe adding windshield and roof seals may help you.
In my experience, it's not useful to do before and after measurements, with even a pro level db meter, for subtle wind noise fixes. It's not so much the amplitude but the frequency content. Drone, fluttering, buffeting and other nasty noises can be independent of absolute level.
Totally agree with you madgrey, but I'm happy to contribute to the community. Doesn't hurt to have more data, in case someone's Rivian is way louder than mine.
Wow I drive around at volume 7 using Spotify on my meridian system in the city and maybe 11-12 on the highway. If I really like a song I crank it to 17 but that's pretty darn loud and rattles start to appear from the bass haha
7 is whispers in mine lol. I can be parked in the driveway and 7 is basically off. Anything below 15 for me is horrible low. Around 25 is when I say the system actually gets loud enough to let’s say cause people in car to yell to be heard. 15 and I can still have a regular conversation with a passenger
This is correct - 10db equates to doubling of perceived volume but this is subjective. 6db equates to a measurable doubling of the sound pressure.
the L points inward, under the seal. I basically tried to orient it so it would wedge itself as much as possible without needing to use the adhesive back
