Stripped TP55 Bolt - how to extract?

[HaveBlue]

The high voltage pack is not grounded to the chassis. As far as the 12V, I've literally used car batteries and jumper cables on the trail to weld steering and motor mounts back together so I have a different perspective about worrying for the batteries when they aren't in the loop.

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[Spork8]

Well, quick update: the bolt extractor arrived, but I’m waiting on the replacement bolt to be delivered this Saturday before getting to work. (Not sure if it’s a good idea driving with a missing bolt or if the Megawatt sliders would be secured enough with only 4 of the 5 TP55 bolts to secure it). So far angle grinding a slot and using a flathead didn’t work. I also tried the foil method which—- I’m not sure I did correctly, but I just ended up with bits of foil all over the floor.
I also realized I used a torque wrench to remove the bolts which probably contributed to the stripping of the last bolt.(I know, stupid me). I have a 40in breaker bar coming as well. If neither of those methods work.. I’m gonna just have my friend weld a nut to the bolt at his shop and go that route. I’d have to disconnect the battery though right? That would mean removing a seat?—- seems like a massive PITA.

For the foil method, at first I had the same result as you but I made the mistake of trying it with an impact. I then switched to this and placed foil in (folding it over itself if it wasn't a snug fit) and then slowly removed the bolt. So a large breaker isn't required, but a 40" would help.

Hope you get it out!

 

[nyu1]

Welp, I ended up scheduling a service appointment with the service center after the mobile service guy wasn't able to help--he tried angle grinding the bolt so that we could use a driver to get it out (no luck). The service center said they couldn't work on the vehicle and referred me over to a collision center. The guys there said that the bolt was not budging at all. Not sure what they did to get that last bolt secured to the frame, but it felt like it was welded in place. Only thing left to do would be to drill into the bolt and remove it that way. (The bolt extractor I tried to use snapped and I was SOL on getting it out myself).

They ended up suggesting that we remove the lip from the last bolt attachment point on the rock sliders so that it could be installed without removing the bolt. I was able to mount the slider using 4 of the 5 bolt attachment points plus the two flange points. The guys at Fix Auto N. Anaheim were super helpful and even repainted the sliders to prevent any corrosion or rusting. Good thing I brought the slider with me!

Thank you to everyone who tried to help me out with this! Not exactly the fix I was hoping for, but it worked out. I couldn't just leave good enough alone and be happy with a slider-less car. I'm officially done with all of the "modifications" I had wanted to do for the car. Lesson learned: anything else that requires mechanical work, I'm going to just pay for an install service.

TLDR; Tried all methods except welding a nut to the bolt, but nothing worked. Ended up modifying the slider so that it utilized 4/5 of the bolt attachment points in addition to the 2 flange mounting points.

 

[technerd]

Well I will hopefully learn from your mistakes when I install my sliders soon, and not use an impact, and hope the bolts are easier to remove.

 

[nyu1]

Well I will hopefully learn from your mistakes when I install my sliders soon, and not use an impact, and hope the bolts are easier to remove.

Just make sure to seat the tp55 head fully, keep pressure up against it as you turn it. Someone suggested that I grind down the top of the bolt head so that it’s flat instead of slightly rounded so that it’s less likely to slip/strip. Not sure if that helps though.

 

[HaveBlue]

Grinding down the top of bolt head does not sound like a good idea at all.

 

[nyu1]

Grinding down the top of bolt head does not sound like a good idea at all.

Sorry I meant grinding the tip of the TP55 bit.

 

[timgradywy]

I used a jack to put pressure under my breaker bar while I was removing trickier bolts. Even after I started to strip the head one 1x of them, this gave me enough to get it out. I tried a bunch of other methods to remove it before then, but the jack worked 1st time... Wound up buying a new one of those bolts from Rivian. Would be nice if all sliders came with a couple of extra bolts since stripping the heads is so easy to do...

 

[Spork8]

Well I will hopefully learn from your mistakes when I install my sliders soon, and not use an impact, and hope the bolts are easier to remove.

If you have the opportunity, pop off the covers and take a look at the bolts. One of mine that needed to be removed was already stripped from the factory. The impact is nice once you've loosened them up.

 

[Geek on the flight deck]

I used a jack to put pressure under my breaker bar while I was removing trickier bolts. Even after I started to strip the head one 1x of them, this gave me enough to get it out. I tried a bunch of other methods to remove it before then, but the jack worked 1st time... Wound up buying a new one of those bolts from Rivian. Would be nice if all sliders came with a couple of extra bolts since stripping the heads is so easy to do...

I read every thread before starting to install my running boards......and am having an issue with an almost stripped bolt.

For this did you use a basic scissor jack to apply pressure? I am pretty sure the rear bolt was overtighted from the factory. I removed another bolt with only mild force with a breaker bar.

Trying to figure out the best way to move forward with removing this stubborn bolt.

 

[timgradywy]

I read every thread before starting to install my running boards......and am having an issue with an almost stripped bolt.

For this did you use a basic scissor jack to apply pressure? I am pretty sure the rear bolt was overtighted from the factory. I removed another bolt with only mild force with a breaker bar.

Trying to figure out the best way to move forward with removing this stubborn bolt.

I used a floor jack.

 

[jjswan33]

FWIW I had cracked one of my bolts, which caused even the TP55 to skip, while doing this a while back. I was able to use a pair vice grip in combo with a lever arm (the bar from my cat floor jack) to get it out.

 

[Chris TX]

Use a grinder to make it a hex head bolt:

 

[t-bone]

This worked for me (after many other failed methods/attempts)- Topec 36mm bolt extractor. It was alot easier than expected. If your reading this thread, you're probably in a similar jam, trying to figure out how to get that stripped bolt out of your truck. Hope this helps!

 

[Rivian Owner]

I hate those stupid torx head bolts. They can't handle the torque like a hex head bolt, all you have to do is consider the added leverage at the edge of the hex head bolt compard to the smaller radius of the torx hole.

If you are at a last resort situation where the torx hole is stripped, you can sacrifice a torx bit and "spot weld" it in place in the socket by hooking the welder to the socket and the ground to the perimeter of the bolt. The added benefit is the heat from doing this can help loosen the threads. I'd try this after trying the bolt extraction sockets T-Bone suggested above, if T-Bone's method doesn't work for you.

BTW, there is nothing special about the bolts Rivian is using. You should be able to go to a Tacoma Screw, Graingers, McMaster Carr, or some other supplier of hardware and find suitable replacements, probably for less money. I normally stock up on extra fasteners when I run across an issue like this so I have some spares for the next time. If you know the thread size, you should be able to find a suitable hex head replacement, which from what I've seen on the underside of my R1T, shouldn't be an issue. I'd also add some antiseize to the threads when screwing the bolts back in, whether new or the originals so it will be easier to get them out next time.

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