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12V Battery Replacement Megathread

kallisti5

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Ok, I'm working on my DIY service guide, and having a hell of a time figuring out a reasonable solution to the 12V battery replacement.

> Note: I'm highlighting unheated LifePo4 as "bad" above because charging a LifePo4 in freezing conditions *WILL* damage it. It's assumed the battery within an unheated / uninsulated space will reach freezing temperatures. One offers "Low-Temperature protection", but not sure how good it would be to "cut off charging" in low temperatures as that would let it die over time.


Help me out here folks, I want to document a "drop-in" solution most people can find and i'm having trouble finding a combination
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kallisti5

kallisti5

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For SLA batteries you also want ones that are rated for deep cycling since the ever changing Rivian charging algorithm at times lets the battery drain down a lot before charging it.
Yup. It's such a weird design choice
  1. Custom battery post position / shape
  2. Reversed post positions
    1. It doesn't matter as much on OEM since the terminals are "centered".
  3. Deep cycle, but also high current requirements (OEM DCS-18UNC RIT is 180A burst)
I need to take a DC current clamp meter to my batteries to see what current the R1T actually draws from each. I'd love to make those cheap 12v 18Ah AGM batteries work since they are "deep cycle ish", but I have to make sure the Rivian isn't pulling more than "5.4A initial burst"
 
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Nixapatfan

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Yup. It's such a weird design choice
  1. Custom battery post position / shape
  2. Reversed post positions
  3. Deep cycle, but also high current requirements
I need to take a DC current clamp meter to my batteries to see what current the R1T actually draws from each. I'd love to make those cheap 12v 18Ah AGM batteries work since they are "deep cycle ish", but I have to make sure the Rivian isn't pulling more than "5.4A initial burst"
Yup when you start going into some of the maintenance items you'll start realizing there are a lot of weird choices they've made like the gear train oil and hydraulic suspension fluids for some reason they chose to use fluids not readily available in North America for a vehicle primarily serving this region.

Seems like they intentionally made choices to limit 3rd party servicing and force you into their service centers.
 
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kallisti5

kallisti5

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Seems like they intentionally made choices to limit 3rd party servicing and force you into their service centers.
This is a feeling i've been getting a lot now that i'm out of warranty. It's why i'm starting to focus on making a DIY service manual
 

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Nothing with the Rivian battery is any different than any vehicle I've had over the past 30 years.

I live in ATL, previously in Houston and South Florida. I'm used to replacing batteries in my vehicles, well regularly every 3-7 years when the climate cooked them. The key is to get warning and when replacing buy a solid battery usually $300-$400. I still use the Antigravity tracker device on all my vehicles to get the warning I need to have them replaced before I'm stranded.

I have no problem having Rivian replace the one in my R1T as Lexus would replace in our Lexus's, Ford replaced the Fords and Honda replaced the Honda's. I'd buy a battery off Amazon or get the best one I could get locally (interstate usually) and put it in the trunk for them to switch out.

FWIW same for all the motorcycles I've had over the years, climate cooks them and usually grabbed an Odyssey battery.
 
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kallisti5

kallisti5

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I have no problem having Rivian replace the one in my R1T as Lexus would replace in our Lexus's, Ford replaced the Fords and Honda replaced the Honda's. I'd buy a battery off Amazon or get the best one I could get locally (interstate usually) and put it in the trunk for them to switch out.
I'm trying to be nice, but this feels like it was written with AI :CWL:

So you're saying the Rivian's "take normal 12v batteries", but also you have never replaced it, or looked into replacing it... and take it to your Rivian Dealership?

So; tldr you haven't tried, and have no real information to contribute to the technical realities of replacing the battery.
 

ndmiller

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I'm trying to be nice, but this feels like it was written with AI :CWL:

So you're saying the Rivian's "take normal 12v batteries", but also you have never replaced it, or looked into replacing it... and take it to your Rivian Dealership?

So; tldr you haven't tried, and have no real information to contribute to the technical realities of replacing the battery.
I need no information, when the antigravity device or Rivian gives me a warning I'll take it to the dealer for a 12V replacement. Just like every other gas car I've owned. Reread what I said DUH.
 
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kallisti5

kallisti5

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Back on topic,
Here are the S00nish battery post relocators on the Cheap MightyMax AGM 12v, 18AH battery.

They need a steel 10mm spacer and a longer 20-25mm M5(?) bolt.
Ordered some hardware to see if these will suffice with some minor modifications.

The post ordering doesn't seem to matter as much since the S00nish adapters "center" the terminals and avoid the whole "reverse polarity layout" issue.

Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread photo_2025-11-08_14-22-50



Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread photo_2025-11-08_14-23-35


I'd much rather spend $155 on two new batteries and hardware than.. $800 and a service center trip. Future replacements should in theory be $78 *total* with "stock" batteries.
 
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The Ohmmu is "expensive" but gives you ability to monitor, independent of the vehicle's software. And in context of vehicle cost, it's almost minor? Wasn't Optima working on something? wonder what happened to that. DCE hyped it. Gardner Nichols ran one the first year he ran Pikes Peak. And then...

Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread photo_2025-11-08_14-23-35
 

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I keep this in my frunk in case my 12 V dies while I am away. I have tools in the trailer hitch so I can enter the vehicle if it’s dead. By all measurements I think it should be a drop in replacement. But I’ve never had the opportunity or need to test it yet. Soonish posts with spacers. I 3-D printed the cover and shim.

Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread IMG_6143


Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread IMG_6145


Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread IMG_6146


Rivian R1T R1S 12V Battery Replacement Megathread IMG_6147
 
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kallisti5

kallisti5

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The Ohmmu is "expensive" but gives you ability to monitor, independent of the vehicle's software. And in context of vehicle cost, it's almost minor? Wasn't Optima working on something? wonder what happened to that. DCE hyped it. Gardner Nichols ran one the first year he ran Pikes Peak. And then...
Absolutely agree. Ohmmu is definitely the easiest DIY option today. However, I'd like more options than an OEM battery that's unobtainable 3rd party, and a single boutique battery vendor for my 85k truck :CWL:

I keep this in my frunk in case my 12 V dies while I am away. I have tools in the trailer hitch so I can enter the vehicle if it’s dead. By all measurements I think it should be a drop in replacement. But I’ve never had the opportunity or need to test it yet. Soonish posts with spacers. I 3-D printed the cover and shim.
Awesome idea! Glad to see those adapters working... though i'm feeling like they'll need modified in almost every case which is a touch frustrating (and should honestly be disclosed @ S00nish)

"Depending on the battery chosen, you may need extended bolts, or spacers to make it fit your battery"
 

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I am starting to wonder if the better option is to convert over to a more traditional deep cycle battery size, granted that may mean loosing some frunk space. That could also resolve some of the 12v death and vampire drain issues, as more amp hour capacity would be available in more traditional sizes.
 

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I am starting to wonder if the better option is to convert over to a more traditional deep cycle battery size, granted that may mean loosing some frunk space. That could also resolve some of the 12v death and vampire drain issues, as more amp hour capacity would be available in more traditional sizes.
I have thought about that as well. I thought about adding a second set of batteries with a battery isolator and put them in the unused space where the power bed cover would be. I’ve also heard there is some open space under the bed but haven’t really looked into that option. They would be a lot harder to get to under the bed if needed.
 

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Ok, I'm working on my DIY service guide, and having a hell of a time figuring out a reasonable solution to the 12V battery replacement.

> Note: I'm highlighting unheated LifePo4 as "bad" above because charging a LifePo4 in freezing conditions *WILL* damage it. It's assumed the battery within an unheated / uninsulated space will reach freezing temperatures. One offers "Low-Temperature protection", but not sure how good it would be to "cut off charging" in low temperatures as that would let it die over time.


Help me out here folks, I want to document a "drop-in" solution most people can find and i'm having trouble finding a combination
Sorry, nothing to offer on this issue, but does anyone know if they are using the same battery in the R2?
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