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Rob O

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And it is ACCURATE if you are switching from a metric to LT tire.
Still based on Load Range. My Raptor came stock with LT315/70/17 BFG AT KO2s in Load Range C, which had a max PSI of 45 or 50. The more common replacement is a 35x12.5 17 in Load Range E, which has a max PSI of like 80. Both are LT tires, one in metric and the other flotation size.
 

Kuro-Rivian

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Still based on Load Range. My Raptor came stock with LT315/70/17 BFG AT KO2s in Load Range C, which had a max PSI of 45 or 50. The more common replacement is a 35x12.5 17 in Load Range E, which has a max PSI of like 80. Both are LT tires, one in metric and the other flotation size.
This is true. I deleted my prior comment as I don't want to confuse the issue or anyone here. But 9/10 will switch from a Metric tire to LT and be driving around with underinflated tires.

Anyways, I love these Terrain Contact Contis. They are the quietest A/T tires I've ever driven. And the LT sizes are perfect diameter replacements for the 20" OEM. Plus you get the benefit of being able to air up for road trips. That said, they are definitely road centric and suitable for pretty mild off road.
 

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I've looked into this a lot recently, but I have no particular expertise. But, the load range indicates the max load pressure, not the max tire pressure. Any PSI above the max load pressure has the same carrying capacity. So, the load index determines the max carrying capacity at the max load. For SL and XL tires, their max load is 36 or 42 PSI, respectively, but they often have a max tire pressure of 45 to 51, depending on the tire. So, as long as your cold air pressure is over the max load (36 or 42), then according to the tire manufacturer, you're meeting the weight limit.

But the load range E is different in that the max tire pressure is also the max load pressure rating. So, there is no opportunity of going above the max load pressure. But It also means that the pressure you put in must be comparable to the needed load index.

I think the rating is linear relative to the air pressure. So, you might need to make sure you keep you PSI high enough as a % of 80 psi to ensure the carrying capacity is above the load index of 116.

For E load rating tires:
Load capacity of load index 116 = 2756 pounds
Load capacity of load index of other tires ={P} pounds
Min tire pressure to meet the same capacity of 116 = 80 * 2756 / {P}
For this tire with load index of 126, P = 3748. So, the min tire pressure to match load index of 116 = 58 PSI

You could also swap in half the GAWR = 2480 pounds, but it'd be dangerous to go below that on road. This would be 53 PSI.
 

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Kuro-Rivian

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I've looked into this a lot recently, but I have no particular expertise. But, the load range indicates the max load pressure, not the max tire pressure. Any PSI above the max load pressure has the same carrying capacity. So, the load index determines the max carrying capacity at the max load. For SL and XL tires, their max load is 36 or 42 PSI, respectively, but they often have a max tire pressure of 45 to 51, depending on the tire. So, as long as your cold air pressure is over the max load (36 or 42), then according to the tire manufacturer, you're meeting the weight limit.

But the load range E is different in that the max tire pressure is also the max load pressure rating. So, there is no opportunity of going above the max load pressure. But It also means that the pressure you put in must be comparable to the needed load index.

I think the rating is linear relative to the air pressure. So, you might need to make sure you keep you PSI high enough as a % of 80 psi to ensure the carrying capacity is above the load index of 116.

For E load rating tires:
Load capacity of load index 116 = 2756 pounds
Load capacity of load index of other tires ={P} pounds
Min tire pressure to meet the same capacity of 116 = 80 * 2756 / {P}
For this tire with load index of 126, P = 3748. So, the min tire pressure to match load index of 116 = 58 PSI

You could also swap in half the GAWR = 2480 pounds, but it'd be dangerous to go below that on road. This would be 53 PSI.

As pointed out, it depends as there are different LT tire load ratings. A typical swap is from metric to LT E rated. But not always the case. The bottom line, if you switch to a different tire type and/or size....you gotta get the PSI math right. There are lots of resources online including this from Toyo that I always use. https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
 

Rob O

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What speed on the highway? What was the ambient temperature?
Here’s some ElectraFi data from one leg of my last road trip, if you’d like to nerd out. See my last reply (to you) for context on vehicle conditions. This segment was basically all up hill, climbing from Willows, CA to Bend, OR — 138’ above sea level over a couple 4000-foot passes to final of 3800 feet
Rivian R1T R1S 22” Continental Terrain Contact A/T tires resulted in a negligible INCREASE in efficiency (2.07 mi/kwh) compared to OEM Pirellis (2.04 mi/kwh) IMG_1411

Rivian R1T R1S 22” Continental Terrain Contact A/T tires resulted in a negligible INCREASE in efficiency (2.07 mi/kwh) compared to OEM Pirellis (2.04 mi/kwh) IMG_1412
 

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I’m desperately trying to figure out the bike with two saddles that isn’t a tandem.

That's a Shotgun for kids?
I used this on my Mountain Bike. My child was secure even doing moderately technical trails.

https://mac-ride.com/
 

connoisseurr

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Has anyone installed the H/T's vs. the A/T version?
I haven’t seen any feedback on the H/Ts so I’ll take one for the team and order the H/Ts.

I got my R1T a bit sideways in the rain this week, on these now bald Pirellis. Not going to let that happen again…
 

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I haven’t seen any feedback on the H/Ts so I’ll take one for the team and order the H/Ts.

I got my R1T a bit sideways in the rain this week, on these now bald Pirellis. Not going to let that happen again…
Will you be putting them on 20s or 22s?

My 22s are about done but trying to use them as long as possible before putting on my snows and then I’ll shop this winter.
 

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connoisseurr

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Will you be putting them on 20s or 22s?

My 22s are about done but trying to use them as long as possible before putting on my snows and then I’ll shop this winter.
22s. My OEM Pirellis are roasted after 8k miles.
 

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DubuqueMTB

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Mine should have been done after 15k but I held on until 21k 😬
Also got sideways in the rain
I almost pulled the trigger on the H/Ts so I’ll be interested to hear how those are
Tirerack had some good review data that made both the H/Ts and A/Ts standout amongst their conpetitiors
 

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I just saw a Jalopnik summary of Consumer Reports results and it shows the Conti H/T and A/T as the top choices for their class.

Also, it was basically Michelin or Continental or Bridgestone that won the categories, and Nokian for SUV winter tire.
 

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We just got Continentals on our R1S with 22’s. Have found the ride quality improved over the Pirellis. Extremely happy with the continentals.
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