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iansriv

iansriv

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@iansriv .. what is the build date of your R1S, it's on the driver door pillar. If you can't open the door now due to the dead 12V battery,,, when did you take delivery?

Trying to determine if you have the older two 12v battery system or the post March 2023 build single 12V battery system.
Think it was first week of September last year. Door sticker says 08/23.
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Why would the 12v go flat when there is a massive charged battery sitting underneath that should have jumped in and charged the 12v system?
I recall reading the HV pack charges the 12V when charge of latter falls below 60%. But have no idea if it's confirmed fact. Not sure why it would fall flat, unless what's been said is untrue or the 12V failed at faster rate than the HV pack can charge it.

@iansriv .. what is the build date of your R1S...
To add to that, the build month/year is under the QR code, near upper right corner of the label. Reference image, not mine: https://shorturl.at/gkLWX
 

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Think it was first week of September last year. Door sticker says 08/23.
Well, you have the single 12V battery system... which means you should be able to jump start it or even recharge it via the pigtail leads back by the trailer hitch.
 

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Well, you have the single 12V battery system... which means you should be able to jump start it or even recharge it via the pigtail leads back by the trailer hitch.
Yup. Call AAA to have them bring a jump pack or order one on Door Dash for immediate delivery
 

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I have a jump pack I carried with for winter travels with my X5 35d. This is making me want to keep that with the R1S at all times.
 

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Yup. Call AAA to have them bring a jump pack or order one on Door Dash for immediate delivery
And have DD bring an order of Clams Casino too ?
 

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There is one consolation ;). This is something that requires a driveway. It's not likely to happen on the road.
 

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Why would the 12v go flat when there is a massive charged battery sitting underneath that should have jumped in and charged the 12v system?
It’s a problem even the big three have screwed up; and I cannot give you a good answer. It takes the 12V to activate the relays to connect the traction battery so there is a catch 22 of the 12V gets too low (which it should never) it cannot connect the traction battery to charge itself….

This was my ‘21 MachE a few months after I bought it, same situation 12V died while I was charging overnight; Ford did release a software update a few months after many experienced it, still did not solve all issues. Had to pop the frunk and charge the 12V - once I did that carried on with my life. Irony of using a 12V charger on a 400V EV ?
Rivian R1T R1S Bricked IMG_6760


Where as my 2012 Leaf - never an issue like that. Sure I replaced the traction battery AND the OBC while I owned it. But the 12v died a natural death at year 8 of ownership.
 

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It’s a problem even the big three have screwed up; and I cannot give you a good answer. It takes the 12V to activate the relays to connect the traction battery so there is a catch 22 of the 12V gets too low (which it should never) it cannot connect the traction battery to charge itself….

This was my MachE a few months after I bought it, same situation 12V died while I was charging overnight; Ford did release a software update a few months after many experienced it, still did not solve all issues. Had to pop the frunk and charge the 12V - once I did that carried on with my life.
It does seem to be a nature of the beast....and with that said....I sure wish Rivian had included a mechanical key that could be used to access the interior and then a mechanical hood release to get to the battery/s. Sucks it requires the janky boost the 12v from the back bumper to hope to get access to interior....or other option undo fasteners in fender liner to get at a cable hopefully to manually release the hood.

Knowing that these 12v are Achilles heels of BEV....easier access would have been nice.....
 

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Procedures for jumping 12V battery through leads in port next to hitch receiver starts on P.35:
https://assets.rivian.com/2md5qhoea...7447/R1-tow-operator-guide-en-us-20231010.pdf

Maintaining 20-70% charge pertains to your high voltage battery pack, the one that provides drive to the motors. It doesn't pertain to the 12V battery (or batteries, if yours has two instead one + capacitor in shape of a 12V battery). The 12V system provides power to basic systems (like keyless entry etc.).
I mentioned the main battery charge amount because I was under the impression that we needed to maintain a certain amount there to ensure it was charging the 12v battery. After a good nights sleep I came up with an ingenious plan-to jump start the 12v battery using the leads in the hitch area (technically know as the arse)! I have a lot of wonderful friends and neighbours that can help. I just hope I don't blow up or melt their ice cars.

The only remaining question is-then what? It's Sunday otherwise I'd drive it down to the SC. Do I just jump the 12v and bobs your uncle. Nothing to reset. Don't I need to go to the SC or have a mobile tech connect it to the Death Star to reset things?

Thank you all for helping me with great advice and even better laughs!
 

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Well, you have the single 12V battery system... which means you should be able to jump start it or even recharge it via the pigtail leads back by the trailer hitch.
Are these “pigtail leads” the socket for the trailer plug or a separate set of leads back by the hitch? Trying to figure out what I’m looking or before sticking my head under my R1T.
 

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Why would the 12v go flat when there is a massive charged battery sitting underneath that should have jumped in and charged the 12v system?
Rivian hasn't really documented how their charging system works, but I'd typically expect if the discharge event happens too rapidly that they aren't set up to immediately react to the battery going low.

There's a fine line between low enough that it needs a recharge and too low to activate the equipment to perform the recharge- while still trying to minimize the frequency of doing the activation since it's a huge source of vampire energy drain. On a battery that is already dying, that window shrinks down significantly.
 

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Rivian hasn't really documented how their charging system works, but I'd typically expect if the discharge event happens too rapidly that they aren't set up to immediately react to the battery going low.

There's a fine line between low enough that it needs a recharge and too low to activate the equipment to perform the recharge- while still trying to minimize the frequency of doing the activation since it's a huge source of vampire energy drain. On a battery that is already dying, that window shrinks down significantly.
I wonder if they could add a 12v voltage rate of change logic then to the system and if exceeds some level just make assumption it will need HV support so let's close the contactors right away before it can't? Maybe that already is there and this was just a rando failure of some type too.
 

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I would jump the 12V, see how it goes. I Wouldn't go too far to ensure the 12V isn't damaged in any way and the vehicle will start for a bit.

I had my R1S for a month, the charge door got stuck in a close loop and drained the 12V, wouldn't jump or anything. Service had to pull it out of my garage bay and take it to service. This was in March of 23
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