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Zoidz

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I wonder if they could add a 12v voltage rate of change logic then to the system and if exceeds some level just make assumption it will need HV support so let's close the contactors right away before it can't? Maybe that already is there and this was just a rando failure of some type too.
I would jump the 12V, see how it goes. I Wouldn't go too far to ensure the 12V isn't damaged in any way and the vehicle will start for a bit.

I had my R1S for a month, the charge door got stuck in a close loop and drained the 12V, wouldn't jump or anything. Service had to pull it out of my garage bay and take it to service.
While it seems like we are hearing fewer reports of killed 12 volt batteries, IMO this is still happening too often. They def need to improve the algorithm for 12 volt charging. SImilarly, if your cahrge door got stuck in a close loop (I assume you mean repeatedly opening and closing?) that's insane and easily fixed. Just about any automation algorithm should stop trying after X repeated cycles when it is expecting 1 cycle.
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While it seems like we are hearing fewer reports of killed 12 volt batteries, IMO this is still happening too often. They def need to improve the algorithm for 12 volt charging. SImilarly, if your cahrge door got stuck in a close loop (I assume you mean repeatedly opening and closing?) that's insane and easily fixed. Just about any automation algorithm should stop trying after X repeated cycles when it is expecting 1 cycle.
I should have included this happens in March 23. Since then it has been perfect.
 

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There is a more basic question, why would leaving a car door open for 10 minutes drain a 12v battery? That seems excessively fast to me.
 
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iansriv

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There is a more basic question, why would leaving a car door open for 10 minutes drain a 12v battery? That seems excessively fast to me.
My thoughts exactly. Not sure I did anything out of the ordinary. I usually open all the doors so that the cleaning agents air out. I then clean the doors and interior. Could not have been more than 10-15 minutes as the car was very clean to begin with. My only guess is that the battery had deteriorated already. I was also warming up the car before morning drives because it was getting nippy here and it was nice to get into a toasty car. I thought that would be powered by the main battery.
 

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If you have a working car in the garage trapped could you pull that battery out of the car and take it to the back of your Rivian and do the jump procedure? Jump packs are just batteries.

Maybe start the car in the garage for 15 minutes or so prior to removing battery to make sure it’s topped up on charge. With the garage door open of course.
 

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If you have a working car in the garage trapped could you pull that battery out of the car and take it to the back of your Rivian and do the jump procedure? Jump packs are just batteries.

Maybe start the car in the garage for 15 minutes or so prior to removing battery to make sure it’s topped up on charge. With the garage door open of course.
I would worry about draining the ICE car's battery if you were to try doing a deep cycle charge without the ICE vehicle running. Depending on how big the other vehicle's battery is, getting the Rivian's 12v battery up from zero could drain enough power from the ICE battery that it won't be able to start the car it came from.
 

Grabs10

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I would worry about draining the ICE car's battery if you were to try doing a deep cycle charge without the ICE vehicle running. Depending on how big the other vehicle's battery is, getting the Rivian's 12v battery up from zero could drain enough power from the ICE battery that it won't be able to start the car it came from.
I was always under the assumption that the 12 volt battery in the Rivian is used to close some contacts in the electrical system to utilize the hv battery via a dc to dc 12 volt converter to charge the 12 volt. Rivian’s 12 volt battery is pretty tiny compare to a regular car battery on amp hours and cca’s. The HV battery is used in EV’s to charge the 12 volt and you just need the 12 volt jump to close the contacts on the converter from my understanding and then it will charge itself via the hv battery
 

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I was always under the assumption that the 12 volt battery in the Rivian is used to close some contacts in the electrical system to utilize the hv battery via a dc to dc 12 volt converter to charge the 12 volt. Rivian’s 12 volt battery is pretty tiny compare to a regular car battery on amp hours and cca’s
It's a much lower AH capacity AGM battery to my understanding, yes, but you could still drain too much from the ICE battery to hit the CCA you need to get it started later.

My Focus RS calls for a ridiculously high CCA rating from a relatively small battery for example. If I ran any decent accessories off it with the vehicle off, the next start is a cross-your-fingers kind of moment. This is with a yellow top battery to boot ?
 

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If you're comfortable doing stuff like this, you can manually pop the hood open then charge the 12V batts with a regular battery charger...

1704582683328.png
Does anyone know if there is a video (perhaps on YouTube) for this procedure? The instructions and diagrams in the Owner’s Manual are barely adequate.
 

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Have you started to charge your 12V yet OP?

Looks like we’ve covered almost all the methods in the thread, from the rear 12v access - to manually popping the hood which from the instructions seems very straight forward (and honesty a little worrysome as that makes the frunk that much more insecure in my eyes)
 

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Are these “pigtail leads” the socket for the trailer plug or a separate set of leads back by the hitch? Trying to figure out what I’m looking or before sticking my head under my R1T.
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Magicbus

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Thank you. I was on my phone and w/o access to the manual, and quite frankly wasn’t sure what to look up! The thought that it would be referred to as “jump starting” actually never occurred to me, although it does make sense.
 

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SPITmadFIRE

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Yes. 3000A peak when only 30 is required.
To be clear, Rivian calls for a constant 30A within the range of 13V to 16V. I would not be surprised if most jump packs with really high peak current aren't able to sustain 30A for any meaningful amount of time here.
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