Gen 1 Vampire Drain (Possibly) Solved (or Hacked)

[risingphoenix]

4A Battery Tender with OBD2 adapter

Sorry but could you link to what you use? Hard to find on Amazon or via google. Thank you!

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[Tim-in-CA]

Sorry but could you link to what you use? Hard to find on Amazon or via google. Thank you!

I originally got the BT from Costco, but here’s the same from Amazon. The OBD adapter is separate

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y38WRSI

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-Selectable-Lithium-Charge/dp/B07XMJDJX7/

select 12v AGM on the Battery Tender

 

[tjrivian]

I only noticed something was wrong by observing the VERY frequent sleep/wake cycles using Electrafi.

How often is VERY frequent? I was out of town(so no chance of any proximity wakeups), with my car parked in the driveway with gear guard on and see a cycle that looks like this on my brand new gen1 R1S. Is this normal, or too frequent?

 

[Tim-in-CA]

How often is VERY frequent? I was out of town(so no chance of any proximity wakeups), with my car parked in the driveway with gear guard on and see a cycle that looks like this on my brand new gen1 R1S. Is this normal, or too frequent?

Mine was more frequent with Gear Guard off

 

[risingphoenix]

I hope this isn't too off topic, but I think I'll be putting this in the frunk going forward:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...-with-100-Amp-Engine-Start-DXAEC100/321283942

Dewalt 30amp battery charger with 3 amp maintainer. Should satisfy Rivian requirements (30A) for reviving a dead battery from the rear harness and also can be used as a maintainer for camping/long term storage. I wish it had an SAE port so it could be used with an OBDII adapter in the cabin but other than that seems like a good option for Rivian adventurers. Curious if anyone thinks an SAE-ring adapter could be used to connect the unit to an OBD-SAE adapter to provider maintainer function in cabin.

Edit: This unit requires AC to be plugged in to use, dramatically reducing its utility in remote locations/off grid.

 

[mudito]

How often is VERY frequent? I was out of town(so no chance of any proximity wakeups), with my car parked in the driveway with gear guard on and see a cycle that looks like this on my brand new gen1 R1S. Is this normal, or too frequent?

looks like "normal" to me... You might want to take a look at This Thread: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/trick-for-maintaining-health-of-the-12v-battery.37720/

 

[radiator]

All great data and work! I think the approach for two battery R1s should be removing the frunk and running a separate fused SAE connection from the towhook area to each battery. I use these all the time and they allow connection of any battery maintainer (even the NICO with an SAE adapter). This keeps the charger(s) external to vehicle and the fuse handles the positive lines crossing over the chassis under the frunk. https://www.amazon.com/SPARKING-Motorcycle-Disconnect-Extension-Accessory/dp/B07KS2GCXJ/

If you want a MagSafe Version use the cool connection linked above.

For the single battery R1s I am going to do a test with feeding the charge into the 7 Pin Trailer plug. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CMDJRBDB/

Thanks everyone for all the efforts so far. Yes, this is a shame that such measures have to be taken to prevent significant HV battery loss, but at least we can prove options are possible.

Has anyone been trickle charging through the 7 pin port? Truck lives outside so I’m researching potential ways to charge which are relatively weather “safe”

 

[FraserC]

As promised I am reporting back on this busy post! I initially chimed in because the VD level I was seeing (in a near new R1T Gen 2) was crazy high, confirmed by the electraFi app.
So I tested using a trickle charge to the Gen 2 12V positive access in the frunk, and chassis ground, using a 1000 Wh Jackery power bank for ~24 hours.
In summary, using the trickle charger pretty much reduced VD to zero - success!! But after disconnecting the trickle charger I was (so far) pleasantly surprised to find that the VD is still near zero, in fact a modest negative loss VD!
Question: Since I lodged a request to Rivian to update my software to correct this VD loss (per another users post which corrected their Gen 2 VD by software update) might they have installed a fix over the air? Or did my experimenting with trickle charging result in some kind of 'corrective' action?
Here are electraFi screenshots for Dec 21 thru Dec 24:

 

[mudito]

As promised I am reporting back on this busy post! I initially chimed in because the VD level I was seeing (in a near new R1T Gen 2) was crazy high, confirmed by the electraFi app.
So I tested using a trickle charge to the Gen 2 12V positive access in the frunk, and chassis ground, using a 1000 Wh Jackery power bank for ~24 hours.
In summary, using the trickle charger pretty much reduced VD to zero - success!! But after disconnecting the trickle charger I was (so far) pleasantly surprised to find that the VD is still near zero, in fact a modest negative loss VD!
Question: Since I lodged a request to Rivian to update my software to correct this VD loss (per another users post which corrected their Gen 2 VD by software update) might they have installed a fix over the air? Or did my experimenting with trickle charging result in some kind of 'corrective' action?
Here are electraFi screenshots for Dec 21 thru Dec 24:

I think you're basically confirming what I explained here https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/trick-for-maintaining-health-of-the-12v-battery.37720/

Your 12V charge level is healthier now. Still doesn't look like "new" to me, but it's wayyyy better 100%

 

[FraserC]

Thanks Aldo, I had read your thread (and many more) but had not seen any clear claim that the unhealthy 12V battery issue was redeemable.. I could have missed this in the sheer volume of reading!
I'll be keeping a watch on VD magnitude, and will charge the 12V battery if I see it increasing again!
I did put in a call to Rivian asking them if a software update could help with this, or if the 12V battery should be replaced.

 

[mudito]

Thanks Aldo, I had read your thread (and many more) but had not seen any clear claim that the unhealthy 12V battery issue was redeemable.. I could have missed this in the sheer volume of reading!
I'll be keeping a watch on VD magnitude, and will charge the 12V battery if I see it increasing again!
I did put in a call to Rivian asking them if a software update could help with this, or if the 12V battery should be replaced.

Keep us posted (feel free to chime-in in the other thread as well for this specific trick if works for you). I plan to do 24hr charges every now and then to make sure it stays healthy

 

[chickennuggetboi]

[WARNING]: I tried to set up a trickle charger with my Feb 2024 R1S (single 12V battery), and ended up somehow bricking it. I'm hoping maybe someone can help point out something dumb I did.

I had a simple setup, using the Noco Genius5 trickle charger set to 12v AGM hooking up the terminals to the following points

My Rivian then threw 12V faults and went into turtle mode. I removed the charger, but the faults didn't clear so I did a reset. After the reset all my screens are dead, however there still is 12.4V across the battery terminals. I did notice, the negative terminal of my battery separates the sensor and the main negative wire, which is different than some other builds (e.g. link). Perhaps I somehow shorted the sensor?

 

[mudito]

[WARNING]: I tried to set up a trickle charger with my Feb 2024 R1S (single 12V battery), and ended up somehow bricking it. I'm hoping maybe someone can help point out something dumb I did.

I had a simple setup, using the Noco Genius5 trickle charger set to 12v AGM hooking up the terminals to the following points

My Rivian then threw 12V faults and went into turtle mode. I removed the charger, but the faults didn't clear so I did a reset. After the reset all my screens are dead, however there still is 12.4V across the battery terminals. I did notice, the negative terminal of my battery separates the sensor and the main negative wire, which is different than some other builds (e.g. link). Perhaps I somehow shorted the sensor?

Not sure how Gen2 looks like (I have a dual 12v Gen1 setup), but did you measure with a multi-meter that you could get battery voltage between those two points?

What's the post right below the one you marked in your picture? Looks like the one you marked might be a sensor/fuse or something like that:

If that's the case, probably you should've tried the other one instead. I have done mine exactly the same way @NY_Rob did and (of course) is working like a charm:

My only difference is that I have Two NOCO Genius5 instead of a double one (I had one, so I just added a second one). My setup isn't as permanent also since I daily drive my R1T, so I just maintain the health once a while, as stated in my post here.

 

[chickennuggetboi]

Not sure how Gen2 looks like (I have a dual 12v Gen1 setup), but did you measure with a multi-meter that you could get battery voltage between those two points?

What's the post right below the one you marked in your picture? Looks like the one you marked might be a sensor/fuse or something like that:

If that's the case, probably you should've tried the other one instead. I have done mine exactly the same way @NY_Rob did and (of course) is working like a charm:

My only difference is that I have Two NOCO Genius5 instead of a double one (I had one, so I just added a second one). My setup isn't as permanent also since I daily drive my R1T, so I just maintain the health once a while, as stated in my post here.

To clarify I have a Gen 1 single battery. I looked up the part number (pt00099731-B) and I think it's a battery sensor with a ground wire harness. I measured with a multimeter between the positive terminal and both the "sensor" and the wire below that. The "sensor" wire and the wire below that are at the same voltage, which should be ground. The "sensor" wire is attached to the negative terminal of the battery and the wire below that is attached to the frame of the car. I'm guessing that's to set ground at the same voltage level. I'm not sure if hooking up my trickle charger to the frame connected ground wire would have made a difference? Unfortunately I can't test that either since my car is bricked atm ?

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