Yup, my guess would have been the same as yours. Weird it bricked itself out. I would probably try disconnecting ALL power (12V and HV) to the truck, and then reconnect it back to see if that resuscitates it. If something is fried, this won't work, but if it was a safety shutoff, I'm sure it will come back alive.
If you park in a garage, you should try the battery tender + OBD2 port method like I did. Been using it for months without issue. Regarding your problem, I'd disconnect 12V, wait a bit (say an hour), then reconnect. If that doesn't resolve, then it seems like a service visit is in your future. I'd refrain from telling them what you did and remove the wires you installed to the terminals.[WARNING]: I tried to set up a trickle charger with my Feb 2024 R1S (single 12V battery), and ended up somehow bricking it. I'm hoping maybe someone can help point out something dumb I did.
I had a simple setup, using the Noco Genius5 trickle charger set to 12v AGM hooking up the terminals to the following points
My Rivian then threw 12V faults and went into turtle mode. I removed the charger, but the faults didn't clear so I did a reset. After the reset all my screens are dead, however there still is 12.4V across the battery terminals. I did notice, the negative terminal of my battery separates the sensor and the main negative wire, which is different than some other builds (e.g. link). Perhaps I somehow shorted the sensor?
Yes. It's known that those wires aren't direct to the battery and most likely kept that way on G2On my G2 R1S I tried using a battery tender through the 7-pin trailer connector. It works until the truck goes to sleep. Had it working for a while in camp mode and then it quit. I don't believe any of the trailer wires have a direct connection to the battery as I was getting a mid 10v reading a lot of the time. Can also confirm the jump start terminals are not live.
I won't be messing with the 7-pin anymore.
I looked at our Gen2 R1S and didn't see an obvious way to remove the battery without taking out the seat. You can see part of the battery and it appears to be a very small battery same or similar to the Gen1.
Unless you can reduce the output of the 15A tender it won’t work with the obd2 adapter. Max 3A.
Damn. I'm glad you said something. I was planning on making my own adapter. I searched and it looks like the max current through OBD2 is 6 amps and the Deltran adapter has a max current of 3 amps. I need to figure out how to put a pigtail directly on the battery.
Maybe even with options to adjust for different use-cases like 36/48/72/96hrs options (in case you normally don't use your car during weekends and would like to avoid a 1 minute boot time on Monday morning or things like that).
